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Help with a push button Payphone keypad issue

Started by mephonehome, June 17, 2019, 10:10:08 PM

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mephonehome

Hello everyone, I am new to this forum and need some help with my payphone. I used google and found this forum with the most intellectual people of phones out there. I had a interest of getting a old pay phone since I dont see them anymore and kinda miss them. My ex-stepmother whom I am still friendly with asked me to remove this payphone from her garage, it was mounted to the garage wall next to the entry door but not hooked/working.(I tried to test and see if it works.)

I took it home and got a landline connected to my house.(That was another issue with AT&T) So when I asked the repairman who came out he told me he doesnt know how to work on them and most of the repair guys are to young to know how to fix them. (They all retired he told me)

So now that I connected it to the wall, I get a dial tone but cant hear the tone when I use the push button section and the microphone does not work. I called the new home number and the bells ring in the pay phone housing section and it notices that I pick up the handset, but no microphone and cant hear.

So I remembered that I had a old rotary phone that I bought for $5 when I bought an old all wood kitchen table at a estate sale. The old white rotary phone works flawlessy. So I took the rotary apart and used the pay phone handset on the rotary. Guess what, it worked. I even tried the coin station amplifier ( the button on the pay phone that would make the volume louder so you could hear better).

So by now I figured the handset is good so I purchased a replacement keypad assembly and connected it at the same connection points as the old one. It still does not work. Please help, if you need to see video, I have one and could email I guess.

Thank you for listening and putting in your two cents.

Michael

RB

Hi and welcome.
I don't know much about payphones.
I do know, they were not usable on just a pots line.
There was more to it.
There were more wires involved, and the CO provided signals to retrieve/return the coin.
Some were later modified to work on pots lines, but the coin stuff was removed/unhooked.
You may be needing a controller to complete your phone.
Some had a no sound till coin dropped, some had sound right away, there were a few different combinations.
Someone will recognize your phone and tell you what you need.
nice phone!

FABphones

Quote from: mephonehome on June 17, 2019, 10:10:08 PM
Hello everyone, I am new to this forum and need some help with my payphone....

Have you tried using the 'search' facility above? (eg, I entered 'push button payphone' and the result listed over 35 posts). You will be able to learn a lot about payphones whilst you wait for replies :).  Welcome.
A collector of  'Monochrome Phones with Sepia Tones'   ...and a Duck!
***********
Vintage Phones - 10% man made, 90% Tribble
*************

Key2871

Need better pictures of the inside back of the phone. Need better shots of the chassis, the board that's in the back of the phone. Have you tried you tried reversing the red and green, tip and ring. If that still doesn't work come back.
But better pictures of your inside back for sure.

Ken
KEN

mephonehome

Ok, sorry I didn't use the search button. I did but nothing related to the issue I am having. From a Google search and search here on this forum, this phone should be able to work  without putting a coin in. I have tried swapping the ring and tip red/green wires and no difference. 

Ok the button keypad housing is a 61C. The metal push buttons are a Western Electric 70C and the main board in the back housing is a 31A. Here are some photos.


Key2871

#5
Below is the link to the 1C diagram for that phone, you most likely have either a 70A or 70B dial. Check your original dial and connect it to terminal board TB2, (on the dial chassis) using the chart at the bottom page.
And recheck the connections on the terminal board on the chassis, TB3. Your tottalizer is already set to CF, for coin first.

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17818.0;attach=158544;image
KEN

Key2871

I should have added that the dial number is usually on the left front of the dial. It's going to be 70A or B.
If you need further help, just come back.
Good luck.
KEN

tallrick

I see a Phone1 logo on the handset, those were always COCOT phones. I have one as well. Mine has a GTE style housing with a Protel 7000 board. The Protel boards can be set to not accept digits until coins are inserted. WE style housings have the Prorel 4000 or 8000 boards, but many had TSG boards which do not store rate files or other configuration but do have DIP switches to allow security features such as no transmit and dial pad disabling. The keypads are just momentary switch with carbon buttons and sometimes are affected by moisture, Generally though only one or a few keys are affected, When you push the volume button do you hear a tone in the receiver? All it does is trigger the pound tone. If you have a Protel board the battery is probably dead and the eprom battery may be on its way out.

Key2871

But if you look at the guts for that phone, it's not protel in their. The handset could be a replacement, or the innards got replaced. That's a western C series.
KEN

tallrick

For some reason the photo of the interior is not visible to me. Good point about the handset I have seen some strange combos.

dsk

Hi, and welcome.  The only touch tone payphone I have tried was sensitive to line polarity, so just changing the 2 wires was enough on mine, and that was an AE.

dsk

Key2871

Yea, I already brought that up, and it didn't work. It's a convertible set, C. It can be converted from a coin first to dial tone first. But some wires have to be changed to different positions before the set will work, as a dumb set.
KEN

mephonehome

Key2871
My original dial has a part #71C see photo
The totalizer is set to DTF I think. See photo


Key2871

#14
Yes I saw the tottalizer is set correct, but you need to check specific dial leads, per the link I sent along. So that's the latest dial, so check the connection sheet, on that link, make sure the C dial connections are shown. If not, I'll have to look for info on that dial. I'm surprised you have the C dial, but an older chassis, is it a 32B?
If the dial isn't wired DTF it won't work. Also the small board on the chassis.
Get all those correct, try it, if still no go, reverse the tip and ring on the chassis coming in from the line. If still no go your dial is bad. Then you can use your new one, just wire it per the correct chassis, and to DTF. Good luck, let us know how you make out.
It's been that the tottalizer could be the problem, but we'll tackle that later.

Ken
KEN