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Odd 634 Wiring Help Needed

Started by Jack, October 20, 2008, 11:49:20 PM

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Jack

Hello, I recently picked up a 202 with a subset marked 634 YD and when I opened it up I discovered that it had evidently been modified at some point. The ringer is a different type and there are 2 inductors, as well as a mess of wires. I have looked at the schematic and other 634 boxes on eBay and can't make sense of this box. Also, there are 3 batteries underneath the wooden part.

If anyone can help me to rewire this box in the simplest way possible so that I can plug it into a jack and have it ring I would be very happy,
Thanks, Jack

BDM

That's a standard anti-sidetone network, but modified for two separate subscriber lines in. It may not be modified. Follow the wiring diagram and use only one net work transformer. Disconnect the other.
http://www.telephonecollectors.org/library/weco/634684a.pdf
--Brian--

St Clair Shores, MI

Jack

Thank you for your prompt reply, I just hadn't seen any diagrams for 2 lines. So technically I can use the other inductor for a 2nd handset correct? I ask because although the two look the same the markings are different and there is a resistor wired across the inductor closest to the ringer. Also, from the schematics it seems like there is no need for the batteries correct? I simply wire the line to the inductor and the ringer?
Thank you again,
Jack

BDM

Jack, what numbers are inked across each coil? BTW, if memory serves me correctly. Both sets used one ringer, in conjunction with bullet lamps to tell the subscriber which line was ringing. That's vague memory, and I could be wrong.
--Brian--

St Clair Shores, MI

Jack

Well I got the ringer and the phone working :) so thank you for the diagrams! And when I said battery before I was being stupid because I hadn't realized that those were the capacitors... anyway...
One of the inductors has the exact markings as the diagrams do, the other has:
In parenthesis are the normal coil's markings:
SL (C) / BL (GN)
L1 (L1) / RBK (R)
A-resistor-C (L2) [so this is the only real difference, and in the inductor I am using now it is unused... so it may not even matter.

One more thing, how can I test the pulse dialing? My provider says that it should work so I need to make sure it's not the phone,
Thanks for the help, Jack

Jack

Actually I just got an email from them saying that they tested a line with a rotary phone and it worked, and then set up my line accordingly... so now it has to be my phone... any ideas on how to test the dialer? Thanks, Jacl

Dennis Markham

Jack, describe your problem with the dial of the phone.  Is it breaking he dial tone.  Listen while dialing, what are you hearing.  When you dial a number are you just getting dial tone when the dialing stops?  What type of dial is on your phone?  maybe you could post a photo of the phone and dial (including the back of the dial). 
Dennis

BDM

Also, make sure you have the proper line cord from the phone to the subset. Post the info Mark asked for, along with the numbers of the network coils.
--Brian--

St Clair Shores, MI

bingster

Not to give you a laundry list of things to do, but could you also post an updated photo of the wiring in the subset?
= DARRIN =



Jack

Thank you for your replies.
When I dial, the dial tone is interrupted while I hold a number. Then, I can hear the pulses. Someone called me and I was dialing while they were on the line and they could hear the pulses as well. But, when I dial to a tone, the tone remains unchanged until it times out and switches to a siren tone.
And... here are pictures of everything,
Thanks,
Jack

Dennis Markham

#10
Jack,

I see some issues with your wiring inside the base of your phone.  I have my D1, with a #4 dial (#5 will be the same) wired with a 4 conductor desk stand cord for anti side-tone.  The desk stand cord is the cord that connects the phone to the ringer box.  First I will explain the terminals the way I think of them.

Looking at your photo,  for purposes of making it easy to identify the terminals, I number them 1 thru 4 with the 5th terminal being the "W" screw at the top of the stack.  The others I number 1,2,3,4 from left to right as you look at the terminals on the back of the dial in your photo.

Wire the handset this way:

White wire to "W" (or what I call #5) on the Dial
Red Wire to Terminal Screw #4 (All the way to the right side)
Black Wire - Terminal #2

There should be two jumper wires.  They should be connected as follows:

Jumper #1 From W on left switch to Terminal #3 on the dial
Jumper #2 From B on Left Switch to terminal #1 on dial

The Desk Stand Cord should be wired as follows:

Red Wire to terminal #4 on Dial
Green to GN On Left hand terminal on switch
Black Wire terminal #2 on Dial
Yellow to "Y" on the end of the switch

If you need a labeled photo let me know and I'll put one together.  This should be pretty clear to connect.  If you then need assistance connecting the line cord from the subset to the wall, let us know.

Everyone OK with this connection?

I've modified this posting to include a photo of the back of a dial, showing what I mean by the numbering that I used in my description above.


Dennis

BDM

--Brian--

St Clair Shores, MI

bingster

Quote from: Dennis Markham on October 21, 2008, 08:41:08 PMIf you need a labeled photo let me know and I'll put one together. 
Gotcha covered, Dennis.
= DARRIN =



Dennis Markham

Bingster, those are great diagrams that you make.  Excellent.  Thanks for sharing those.

bingster

Does anybody have a subset with a 101A network?  It looks to me from the updated subset photo that there are still way too many wires connected to the terminal board.  With a 101A network, shouldn't almost all those wires be connected to the network?

It's difficult to check against mine because it's got one of the old networks with the big wooden blocks at the end, but the way mine's wired (it's a 684A), the only board terminals that are used are the "BK" and "K" terminals.  Everything else is connected to the network.
= DARRIN =