Mounting H1A ringer in a WE591

[Ed Morris]

Is it possible to use an H1A ringer in a NE 591 with a 425B network and 7D dial?  The H1A ringer has four wires, black, red, red/white, and white.  I tried connecting as follows, without success:

Red: L2
Black: F
Red/white: A
White: K

The H1A was shipped to me by error instead of a C4A, but before returning it, I was going to see if it would work.  So far, no luck.

[HarrySmith]

I think if you move the black wire to L1 it will work.

[Ed Morris]

Harry, Right!  Moving black to L1 works, but you have to add a capacitor and short the red/white and white leads together.  That seems to be the only way I can get it to work.

I used a 1uF capacitor, but a .5uF would probably work better.

[jsowers]

Ed, it looks to me like you could take the left bell and resonator off your 591's party line ringer and put them on the H1A after taking off that white plastic piece and you could then have a two-bell ringer. The bells are different tones, so tap them with a screwdriver or look at their numbers to be sure they're different and sound OK together. It looks like it should mount OK in the phone. Good luck!

[Ed Morris]

Thanks, Jonathan.  I didn't think of that. 

However, in the meantime, I had already used that plastic buzzer platform to mount my capacitor, and the phone does ring.  I set it to the lowest volume, so it's a very gently tinkle.

I insulated and soldered a terminal to one end of the 1uF cap and connected it to L2.  I then connected red to the other end of the capacitor using one of the existing buzzer mounting screws and a couple washers.  Black is connected directly to L1.  I wired the terminals of red/white and white together and inslulated them with a piece of shrink tubing, and tucked  them out of the way.  The H1A does mount perfectly in place of the original ringer.  Everything is reversible.

[HarrySmith]

Nice work! I don't know if you like the sound of the dual gong ringer but for me that is the thing I like most about these phones! You can always tuck the cap in behind the ringer and add the other gong.

[poplar1]

So, is the original 0.5 uF capacitor (A to K) open? If so, you could have just mounted the new capacitor in parallel with the old one.
Also, you can use G (blind terminal) for connecting 2 wires together.

[paul-f]

For reference, a quick search in the TCI Library for H1 ringer produces a hit on
BSP 501-254-100.  Worth a look.

[Ed Morris]

Thanks to all--this has been very educational.

The original party line ringer had an externally mounted capacitor, so I didn't think about a ringer capacitor embedded in the 425B network.  I did check for capacitance between A and K, and there is .57uF between those terminals.  So what is the correct hookup of the ringer to use the cap between A and K?  It looks like the most straightforward would be a jumper from L1 to K and Black from the ringer to A?  I don't think it matters if the capacitor is between L2 and red or L1 and black?

Paul, I actually did search TCI, but I searched on H1A instead of H1, which only yielded one result that didn't seem helpful.   

[Ed Morris]

Uh Oh, I think I need more education.

I've been focused on getting the ringer to work, and hadn't tested it dialing out.  The phone does not want to dial out correctly with the ringer attached.  It works fine if I unhook one lead to the ringer, but I get an error dialing out with the ringer connected to L1 and L2.

I tried this hookup:

Red: L2
White: K
Red/White: A
Black: L1

But the ringer doesn't work in that configuration. 

[Ed Morris]

What an idiot I am.  I didn't have the phone plugged in to the phone line for my last test.  So, everything works correct now with this hookup (and phone plugged in to phone line jack):

Red: L2
White: K
Red/White: A
Black: L1

Looking at the H1A wiring diagram in BSP 501-254-100 as Paul recommended was helpful in figuring out the above ringer hookup.

Harry had it right in the beginning.