Ive followed 2 different diagrams on the forums about how to wire my WeCo 233G to a 685A subset and I still cant get a sound out of it.
The handset that came on it is a later Northern Electric G Type 5 Wire handset, 2 white wires, red wire black and green.
Im at a loss on what to do with it. Ive rewired it twice and still can't get anything out of it.
Any ideas before I just wall mount it and make it a display piece.
Do you know which wires are the Receiver, and transmitter?
not sure why so many wires?
I have never seen a handset with 5 wires. Why? Where is the Green one connected in the handset?
The Northern "G" Series handsets were used in a number of different applications, including two way radios, carrier telephone systems, and amplified receiver handsets for the hard of hearing, and handsets used in noisy locations and which had push to talk buttons in the handle. The standard G3 had 4 conductors, some applications had 5, and some of the Northern "G" handsets had 6 conductors. I would imagine Western had them as well. Attached are 2 pages from N.E. "T-9" Telephone catalog with an itemized list of "G" handsets, which explains some of the uses for which they were made. Click & double click to enlarge.
Jeff Lamb
Temporarily connect the two receiver wires to terminals R and GN on the network inside of the subset.
Alright ive wired it like in this post
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=14500.0
I can get buzzing out of the reciever thats it. No dialtone, the extension is off hook though it rings busy.
Well its functioning, Very quiet volume in the handset though, i can make calls on it and itll ring in. So thats progress
It lives :)
Tried another handset. Wired the black wire to T on the terminal strip and the white wire to L on the terminal strip from the handset, left the red disconnected and all was good to go. Called my fiances desk and it came out perfectly.
The L ( "line") terminal is needs only if you have Tip and Ring (the line) going to the phone first, rather than going to the subset first. In any case, the handset is not connected there.
In the diagrams, the red handset wire connects to T, Black and one White handset wire to TR, and the other white handset wire to GN on the hookswitch.
Also, if your subset still has factory wiring, you will need to modify it so that the blue and Brown jumpers match the diagram.
If you can provide photos of the subset connections as Well as the connections in the phone (terminal strip and hookswitch) it may help.
I had it working perfectly. then I moved it to the phone booth ran a new line to it, and now im getting electrocuted every time i touch the darn thing. Its about to just become a permanent display piece. I also lost dialtone
Once again, if you provide pictures of your connections, phone & subset, somebody will be able to tell you what to fix!
Pics of the subset and the housing. Now with the upper housing off I get dialtone, the moment I put the upper housing on I lose dialtone and get shocked from the case of the phone. It was working perfectly fine on the bench.
Quote from: phr34k5h0w on May 15, 2019, 06:06:24 PM
Now with the upper housing off I get dialtone, the moment I put the upper housing on I lose dialtone and get shocked from the case of the phone.
That indicates the problem is most likely at the connections between the upper and lower housing. You should closely examine the area to see if there is an obvious answer. Make sure you aren't pinching any wires when you put the top housing on.
Good luck
Most people can't feel a shock from talk battery. Most everyone will get a shock from ring voltage
Good luck.
Im also using a 3 Wire F handset with Red Black and white wires.
You might want to unplug the booth from the AC line that's powering the booth light.
Bet the shocks stop.
Stan S.
Quote from: Stan S on May 15, 2019, 07:33:48 PM
You might want to unplug the booth from the AC line that's powering the booth light.
Bet the shocks stop.
Stan S.
Agreed. If you got the phone working before placing in the booth I'd be looking at the only element which has changed, which is the booth.
Just for info, could you add a photo of the phone in the booth.
Steve
If I had to guess I'd say the blower motor is shorted to its case.
Next guess would be a short to the metal skin of the booth walls at the door switch.
Regardless, you better disconnect the booth from the AC line!
Stan S.
This is the booth. The booth is electrically sound, was the first thing I checked. Unplugged the booth and still had voltage, Next thing im gonna check is if there is voltage on the definity G3 that runs the phone.
I got the phone itself working last night. the upper housing wasnt seating properly that was the cause of all my issues.