Thanks for "helping" me along with a new addiction, which will hopefully be kept under reasonable control, as I have that "collecting gene" with a pen collection of about 300....
My second project is to wire this WE candlestick rotary to a 634AT subset. I am assuming that the phone is a modified 51AL? From my reading, the bulldog receiver is later. The marking at the neck has been obliterated (see photo), which seems to mean that the original model was upgraded. The transmitter has a diaphragm that I assume is older. The internal wiring seems more modern, similar to the 202 I worked on?
I separately got the subset, which looks to be untouched for 50 years. The wiring pattern in it did not match the attached diagram I found, so I started rewiring it. The photo of the subset shows the wires I have in place (solid lines) and what I believe I need to add according to the digram (dotted lines).
Specific questions for you all:
1. Is the phone OK as its current mixture of parts, all compatible?
2. Is the phone already properly wired, or do I need to change anything?
3. Is the wiring of the subset correctly following the diagram (which was actually for a 202) and will that wiring scheme work with this phone? The phone doesn't have a fourth line to go to ground, is that OK?
4. Are the connections of the subset to the phone and line correct as I have them?
5. If I add the two connections in the dotted lines, do I have to use solder? The terminals on the side have soldered wires currently.
Thanks again everyone....
Otto
634AT wiring
Here is a generic circuit that may be of assistance
It's likely to be a 151AL, since there are two terminal blocks shown. Best way to know is to show the hookswitch and terminals; the 151AL hookswitch has two sets of make contacts, while the 50AL and 51AL each have one set of three make contacts.
The 151AL requires a 5-conductor "harness" from the stem to the base; a 50AL takes a 4-conductor, and the 51AL uses a 3-conductor.
The 151AL also requires 4 conductors from the phone to the subset. The 4th wire connects to BK in the subset (not Ground). The talking capacitor black wire connects to the same BK terminal, and the red talk capacitor wire connects to C. The ringing capacitor connects (yellow) to L2-Y and (slate) to K.
This subject has been discussed here:
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=8785.msg117918#msg117918
and
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=12028.msg127603#msg127603
and in many other posting on the forum.
Your subset originally was a 634AT, with an electron tube for ringing on party-lines, but that has been removed, so it a 634A.
Since the set has the bulldog transmitter and two terminal plates, it was most likely converted to a 151AL. There seems to be a 1 marked on the perch leading the other old stamps. There may be another mark on one of the other sides of the perch.
Your 202 diagram is in principle correct for a 202 (if the black ringer wire is actually connected to the L1 terminal on the coil, or a bridge wire is installed), but you can't use the desk side wiring because a 202 uses a shared wire for the transmitter (TX) and receiver (RX) going to the handset, while a candlestick does not share that wire, but has two separate conductors each to the RX and TX.
Your receiver looks like an earlier 143AW, which is a little old for a dial candlestick. I would expect a 144. If you get any older WE sticks you could use it on one of them.
Quote from: G-Man on September 02, 2015, 08:33:25 AM
Here is a generic circuit that may be of assistance
Unfortunately, Bobby's TCI diagram shows the black lead from the subset going to a "Y-BK" terminal inside the desk stand. In fact, that terminal exists only on the apparatus blank of the non-dial version, and is not present on the dial version. Rather, the black lead from the subset goes directly to BK on the dial.
Thanks everyone for the help. I'll read your suggestions, go to the referenced postings, digest, tinker, and let you know the outcome.
Otto
If you could post photos of the front and back of the hookswitch contacts, this would help determine if you have a 151AL, 51AL or 50AL..
Quote from: poplar1 on September 05, 2015, 07:27:55 PM
If you could post photos of the front and back of the hookswitch contacts, this would help determine if you have a 151AL, 51AL or 50AL..
Do these photos show the required elements? Here I show my ignorance again. Also, I tried to go to those threads given above, and I have to admit that I am lacking the background to understand the nuances of those threads. This is my own fault for not yet getting a good reference book to educate myself first. For example, I have no idea what the issues and barriers are to "trying to connect a sidetone set to an anti-sidetone subset" because I have no idea what those terms mean.
Can you recommend a good source to read up on the general background defining terms like sidetone, condenser, induction coil, etc?
Quote from: oyang on September 08, 2015, 11:48:30 PM
Can you recommend a good source to read up on the general background defining terms like sidetone, condenser, induction coil, etc?
Two sources:
One is invaluable, but costs a little. That one is "Old Time Telephones, Design, History and Restoration", by Ralph O. Meyer. (2005) You can usually find it for around $25.00 It is by far my favorite and explains many things about telephony. This is the second book Ralph wrote on the subject. The first is titled "Old time telephones, technology, Restoration and Repair" (1995) I don't have this book and so I don't have an opinion on it, but in the second book, Ralph makes reference to having made many improvements to the things covered in the first.
While you are waiting for that one to arrive, you could go to Colin Chambers' website
www.oldphoneguy.net (http://www.oldphoneguy.net) ( dead link 03-18-22 )and in the left hand margin select Big Books. That will take you to a page that has a selection for downloading an Army Technical Manual "Fundamentals of Telephony" (1953) Also an excellent source, but not as well explained as Ralph's book, and probably goes into too much technical stuff in later chapters and doesn't give nearly as much background as Ralph's book. But it does a pretty good job of the basics at the beginning. It is also pretty slanted towards military telephony, but the principles are the same as civilian telephony.
Quote from: Sargeguy on September 02, 2015, 09:25:23 AM
Your receiver looks like an earlier 143AW, which is a little old for a dial candlestick. I would expect a 144. If you get any older WE sticks you could use it on one of them.
I got some spare parts some time ago that include a 706B with HA1 receiver, and 706A with HA2 receiver. Would either of these be correct for this phone? Are the housings and receiver units correctly paired?
From what I gather, the 706 would be what goes on a 151AL with a bulldog transmitter....
Addendum:
Just saw this thread
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=11033.0
So their components are switched.
I assume that the receiver and transmitter need to be paired correctly since they are in a single circuit, and so I need to see what transmitter is in this phone to decide which of these to use?
A self-taught course by Ralph Meyer, "Telephony 101" is another good tutorial for the beginner. Ralph conducted this self-study course on the TCI Listserve which has since made it available free of charge to all. Here is the link...
- http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php/telephony101 (http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php/telephony101)
Quote from: Phonesrfun on September 09, 2015, 12:17:59 AM
Two sources:
Many thanks; I will invest in that book. Just FYI, my professional expertise is in molecular biology and medicine, and my background in electronics is limited to the physics course I took in high school. I still remember much of the theory (e.g. Ohm's law, the relationship between electricity and magnetism) but know little of the applied part of electricity (e.g. all those squiggles in the diagrams).
Otto
Quote from: oyang on September 09, 2015, 12:40:01 AM
Quote from: Phonesrfun on September 09, 2015, 12:17:59 AM
Two sources:
Many thanks; I will invest in that book. Just FYI, my professional expertise is in molecular biology and medicine, and my background in electronics is limited to the physics course I took in high school. I still remember much of the theory (e.g. Ohm's law, the relationship between electricity and magnetism) but know little of the applied part of electricity (e.g. all those squiggles in the diagrams).
Otto
Seems to me that molecular biology is right up there with rocket science. If you can understand molecular biology, you should probably catch on to basic electronics. Telephone electronics are really at the basic end of electronics. Like anything else, it might take a few iterations through reading to have it all sink in.
BTW, the receiver with the HA1 element you show is fine for the phone. It is a later version which came out probably in the late 30's and were common replacements for original receivers. Unbeldi posted some information about the HA2 here:
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=14227.msg148571#msg148571
I opened the transmitter and found it is a 635A. So this means that the 706A receiver with the HA1 unit is the correct part for this phone? If so, I lucked out to have it already in my possession from a small group of random parts I got!
An F1 transmitter capsule mounted in a 635A ("Bulldog") transmitter housing. The F1 transmitter and HA1 receiver are a good combination.
So it sounds like this is indeed a 151AL.
Yes, it is a 151AL, because of the hookswitch configuration (4 leaves). It is true that many 151ALs have the 635A transmitter and 706A receiver, but those two parts can also be found on other models. However, the conversion of an older model to a 151AL was done only in the Western Electric repair shops, and not in the field by an installer-repairman.
The 151AL is an anti-sidetone model. It can be used with an anti-sidetone subset such as 634A, 634BA, 684A, 684BA, 495BP subset; or the base of a 302 telephone set. It can also be used with a sidetone subset -- 534A, 584A, 295A, 334A -- in which case, the black conductor is taped and stored inside the subset. For best results, use an anti-sidetone subset.
You will need to rewire the set. The receiver connects to W on the dial and GN on the left terminal block, rather than directly to the hookswitch. You will need 5 conductors between the hookswitch (4) and transmitter (1) to the base of the phone, in addition to the short transmitter wire shown going from the transmitter to the hookswitch. Since you are using a 5H dial, rather than a 2A shown in the diagram, you will need to strap the BB and R terminals together on the dial.
Quote from: oyang on September 08, 2015, 11:48:30 PMI have no idea what the issues and barriers are to "trying to connect a sidetone set to an anti-sidetone subset" because I have no idea what those terms mean.
The term sidetone refers to acoustic feedback from transmitter to receiver; in other words, how much you can hear yourself talk. Circuitry was developed in the 1920s to limit this effect to a more optimum level and dubbed 'anti-sidetone'. Since your phone is indeed a 151AL, you don't need to worry about connecting a sidetone phone to an anti-sidetone circuit. Should you find yourself in that position in the future, there are a couple of topics on that subject (with wiring diagrams) on the forum which I myself have made use of. I currently have a 20-AL connected to a 684-BX subset in use on my line. But, no sense going into that now as it might confuse and distract you from the project at hand.
Quote from: NorthernElectric on September 09, 2015, 06:58:19 AM
Quote from: oyang on September 08, 2015, 11:48:30 PMI have no idea what the issues and barriers are to "trying to connect a sidetone set to an anti-sidetone subset" because I have no idea what those terms mean.
The term sidetone refers to acoustic feedback from transmitter to receiver; in other words, how much you can hear yourself talk. Circuitry was developed in the 1920s to limit this effect to a more optimum level and dubbed 'anti-sidetone'. Since your phone is indeed a 151AL, you don't need to worry about connecting a sidetone phone to an anti-sidetone circuit. Should you find yourself in that position in the future, there are a couple of topics on that subject (with wiring diagrams) on the forum which I myself have made use of. I currently have a 20-AL connected to a 684-BX subset in use on my line. But, no sense going into that now as it might confuse and distract you from the project at hand.
I don't want to split hairs but in the interest of accuracy,
acoustic feedback results in a
"howling" or
"squealing" sound, which was one of the banes of early handset development. This was the reason that Western Electric placed cotton balls in the receiver bowl of hollow G-series handset housings.
It is perhaps more familiar when a public address system has the gain turned up too loud, causing the microphone to pick up the sound emanating from the speakers.
Here is a BLR article explaining the concept-
- http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php/document-repository/doc_view/11309-39jul-blr-p347-antisidetone-circuit (http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php/document-repository/doc_view/11309-39jul-blr-p347-antisidetone-circuit)
Quote from: NorthernElectric on September 09, 2015, 06:58:19 AM
Quote from: oyang on September 08, 2015, 11:48:30 PMI have no idea what the issues and barriers are to "trying to connect a sidetone set to an anti-sidetone subset" because I have no idea what those terms mean.
The term sidetone refers to acoustic feedback from transmitter to receiver; in other words, how much you can hear yourself talk. Circuitry was developed in the 1920s to limit this effect to a more optimum level and dubbed 'anti-sidetone'. Since your phone is indeed a 151AL, you don't need to worry about connecting a sidetone phone to an anti-sidetone circuit. Should you find yourself in that position in the future, there are a couple of topics on that subject (with wiring diagrams) on the forum which I myself have made use of. I currently have a 20-AL connected to a 684-BX subset in use on my line. But, no sense going into that now as it might confuse and distract you from the project at hand.
An important correction to understand sidetone correctly: It is NOT
acoustic feedback, but
electric feedback from the transmitter to the receiver through the induction coil of the telephone set.
Acoustic feedback also existed in the early handsets and was of great trouble that actually held up the use of the combined handsets by Western Electric for almost 20 years, until they figured out how to make a handset with a mechanical resonance frequency far removed from the peak response of the typical transmitter and receiver elements of the time. The early handsets were extremely susceptible to self-resonance resulting in howling sounds.
Even after the introduction of the G1 handset with the 500-set in 1950, the handsets were still equipped with a cotton ball in the handle hollow by the receiver cavity to break acoustic resonances in the air in the handset.
Sidetone is mainly a nuisance, but partially important and wanted, but only to a small degree so that the speakers can hear themselves enough similar to a face-to-face conversation. With too much sidetone most people lower their voices to a level at which telephone transmission is too weak. It also impairs understanding of the remote party by the amplification of room noise through the handset.
It makes sense now; thank you! The explanations about electrical and acoustic feedback are really helpful in understanding WHY things are laid out as they are, which definitely helps me understand HOW they are laid out. Things I read before that didn't sink in now make sense from the explanations you have given me. Without this context, info I was finding was just patterns to memorize or follow.
So it seems that I'm lucky and have all compatible parts that should work together with minimal jury-rigging, assuming nothing is broken. A 51AL would have been more problematic with this subset, so I'm fortunate that I got at 151AL since I didn't know the difference. As the old saying goes, even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometimes.
Regarding this subset (634A):
Is the wiring correct as I have it? The dotted black line connections do not exist currently, but seem to be shown in the diagram showing the hookup of the 202 to the 634A. What are those side contacts, and would I have to solder wires to make those dotted black line connections?
Thanks all,
Otto
I'm not sure what an "SMF" is nor why you have a black wire routed to the ground terminal. According to the wiring diagram for the 151AL, there should be four-wires (not three) in the cord between your deskstand and subset.
unbeldi, popular1 and phonesrfun have already addressed the best wiring connections and practices, so you may wish to instead reread their comments and consult with the diagram that has already posted for this specific instrument (desk stand) instead of for a 202 desk set.
The 634AT originally had a cold cathode tube, rather than a capacitor, in the ringer circuit. So in order to convert a 634AT back to a 634A, besides disconnecting the tube, a second capacitor is needed.
The diagrams for a 634A and other equivalent subsets show two capacitors, though they are often physically contained in one metal enclosure. The two capacitors are connected as follows:
Talk capacitor (2 Microfarads): Red to C on induction coil, Black to BK terminal (not GND).
Ringer capacitor (0.5-1.0:? Microfarad): Yellow to L2-Y on induction coil, Slate to K terminal
Ringer: Red to L1 on induction coil; Black to K.
Quote from: G-Man on September 10, 2015, 05:06:18 AM
I'm not sure what an "SMF" is nor why you have a black wire routed to the ground terminal.
I believe that comes from oyang attempting to correlate the wiring diagram that he had for a 634BA to his incomplete 634AT.
So 'SMF' should be .5 MF and II47 is probably a date code that the artist of the wiring diagram included in his drawing, and oyang drew these on to the photo of his subset to represent connections to the 2nd capacitor which poplar1 has stated his subset is not equipped with.
Quote from: NorthernElectric on September 10, 2015, 08:48:47 AM
Quote from: G-Man on September 10, 2015, 05:06:18 AM
I'm not sure what an "SMF" is nor why you have a black wire routed to the ground terminal.
I believe that comes from oyang attempting to correlate the wiring diagram that he had for a 634BA to his incomplete 634AT.
So 'SMF' should be .5 MF and II47 is probably a date code that the artist of the wiring diagram included in his drawing, and oyang drew these on to the photo of his subset to represent connections to the 2nd capacitor which poplar1 has stated his subset is not equipped with.
Yes that is right, thanks. As I've mentioned, I'm a complete novice and have no background in these areas, so I'm sorry for making mistakes about things that are obvious to everyone. One assumption I made (wrong) was that the internal wiring of the 634 subset would be the same configuration regardless of the phone being added to it, and another mistake was not realizing that the 634BA, 634AT, and 634A are all different in significant ways.
So I'm still (sorry) confused about the subset and its wiring. This subset was a 634AT but it is now missing a cathode tube. I found this thread here:
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=4995.0
Will it work with the current parts, or with minimal (and reversible) modifications within the abilities of a biologist with a screwdriver? Does it need a second capacitor to work, and if so where do I get one and how do I add it? Seems like this is a slightly rare-ish item and I wouldn't want to ruin any historical value. Alternatively, should I try to restore it to original function by adding a tube? I do see there are wiring diagrams available for the original 634AT (although I'd need to ask you guys if these would work for the 151AT).
I found this:
http://vacuumtubesinc.com/index.php/vacuum-tubes/426a-we.html
There are other places selling them too; apparently they aren't hard to get.
To summarize my questions:
1. Will this subset work for my 151AL with its current parts, and if so how do I wire it given the missing tube?
2. If the subset needs additional part(s) to work, can I make it work with simple modifications like adding another capacitor, and if so what and how?
3. Is it instead worth restoring to original specifications by adding a tube?
What do you guys think?
Otto
P.S. If I add a "flux capacitor," can I make calls back in time? Ha!
Otto, While it is surely a nice and worthwhile effort to restore a 634AT to its original configuration, you have to realize that those were not intended to be used on todays 2-wire telephone circuits.
The electron tube is like a diode switch, it was used with polarized pulsed ringing voltage using a ground connection as the return path to the central office. It was only used for fully selective ringing on party-lines. A tube was used on lines that were very sensitive to inductive noise resulting from electrical unbalance of the line because of the ground connection for the normal ringers that used a capacitor instead (in a 634A or BA). An electron tube has an extremely high electrical impedance when not in active use while ringing, while a capacitor has a much lower one.
While it is cute to see the tube glow, it has no practical value anymore, and would be best demonstrated if you also want to construct a traditional telephone line with two conductors plus ground.
So, the more practical activity would be to simply buy a ten cent capacitor.
What is a little odd, is that your set has a 0.5 µF capacitor installed already. Are you reading the value correctly? Normally a 634AT has a 2 µF capacitor installed for the audio circuit, and you would have to add the ringing capacitor with a value of 0.5 µF for a high-impedance ringer, or 1 µF for a low-impedance ringer. It looks like yours has low impedance (2 x 700 Ω).
If your indeed have a 0.5 µF unit, you already have the ringing cap and need the audio part. 0.5 µF is too small for the audio signals, you'd be loosing greatly in audio volume.
PS: looking at your diagrams, not sure anymore which are yours... Does the condenser in your set have four terminals or only two?
What you really would like to have for a 1947 634A is a two-condenser can, like I am showing here:
The first one is a 194B (2 µF + 0.5 µF) and the second is a 194A (2 µF + 1 µF), the correct one for a 1400 Ω ringer.
OK; sounds like the practical thing to do is to add a capacitor to make it work as a 634A (if I am interpreting everything correctly).
I'll let new pictures of the subunit do the talking to avoid confusion. There is only one capacitor that I can see, which has only two terminals (not four) and appears to be labeled "COND 47A" and "2MF" that I assume means 2 µF capacitance. The two closeup photos are just different angles of the same capacitor to try to capture the labels for you.
So that would be the capacitor for the voice circuit, and I need to add a 1 µF capacitor for the ringer? Is this a standard electronic part I can get from Radio Shack? Of course I'll have to get advice about where to install the capacitor and what wires go where!
Thanks again,
Otto
Ok, now the situation is clear. Your capacitor is the 2 µF unit that was originally in the box.
You can see how important it is to report every little detail. Sometimes it's just not obvious for beginners where to find those details.
Yes, the part is very standard. Aside from the capacitance of 1 µF, it should have been tested against break down to at least 250 volts. I am sure R.S. has them, for a price.
Here it is: http://www.radioshack.com/1-0uf-250v-10-metal-film-capacitor/2721055.html
(It says: This 1.0µF 250V 10% metal-film capacitor can help you with many of your electronics projects! there you go)
The price is $1.99.
If you are in less a hurry, your can get 10 of them or more, for the same price from China via eBay without shipping cost.
The new capacitor goes in series with the ringer, simply insert it into one of the two ringer leads before connecting them to L1 and L2. The standard way to accomplish this is by using terminal K on the wood connector block.
line-------L1--------ringer---------K------------|capacitor|----------L2--------line
Super; thank you. I'll splurge on the $1.99 from RS on my way home from work; I doubt I'll need 9 more of them in my lifetime.
I wired the phone last night; I had not realized how big a job it would be. All internal wiring was missing except for the two from the transmitter, which were badly frayed and too short to reach the phone base (they were wired into the hook). So I ended up cutting and crimping/spading every single wire new. Then I saw that someone had cut the black output wire for connection to the subset, so I had to open up the metal fastener on the brown cloth cord to peel it back and splice a new black wire. I think the phone is fully ready, except for a connection I need to make because it has a 5H and not 2H dial? I used a meter to check between output wires, and see that there are two circuits that close/open (I forget now which; it may have been red/green and black/red or black/green?) when I use the hook. It's very exciting to think that I am bringing this phone back to life, probably after decades of nonuse.
Otto
Quote from: poplar1 on September 09, 2015, 01:48:23 AM
subset.
You will need to rewire the set. The receiver connects to W on the dial and GN on the left terminal block, rather than directly to the hookswitch. You will need 5 conductors between the hookswitch (4) and transmitter (1) to the base of the phone, in addition to the short transmitter wire shown going from the transmitter to the hookswitch. Since you are using a 5H dial, rather than a 2A shown in the diagram, you will need to strap the BB and R terminals together on the dial.
Thanks for this info. I did all the wiring (see the prior post); I think I got them all, including the 4 from hookswitch and 1 from transmitter to the base of the phone, as well as one from the transmitter to the hookswitch. Based on the very helpful prior thread,
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=13718.0
I did these:
(BLUE) from B on hookswitch to B-Y on left terminal block
(YELLOW) from Y on hookswitch to Y on dial
(RED) from YY-R on hookswitch to R on right terminal block
(DOUBLE BLUE) from BB on hookswitch to BB on dial
(BLACK) from Transmitter to BK on dial
Other transmitter wire to YY-R on hookswitch
Receiver to GN on right terminal block and W on dial
I just wanted to double check the 5H dial wiring: I need to run one more wire from the dial BB to the right terminal block R?
Thanks!
Otto
just install a very small wire jumper between the BB and R screws directly on the dial, not on the terminal block.
The No. 2A dial combines these into a single screw, so on the 5H you need to correct for that.
Quote from: unbeldi on September 11, 2015, 06:01:39 PM
just install a very small wire jumper between the BB and R screws directly on the dial, not on the terminal block.
The No. 2A dial combines these into a single screw, so on the 5H you need to correct for that.
I'm not sure where to find "R" on the dial. Is my labeling of the terminals correct, and is one of the two places I marked in red the "R" terminal?
R is where your W is.
Here are the dial schematics for comparison, so you see what the difference is.
The original 2A dial is on the left, your 5H on the right. By bridging R and BB, they function the same.
Quote from: unbeldi on September 11, 2015, 09:15:57 PM
R is where your W is.
Great; thank you.... another case of my looking at the wrong diagram. I think this phone is complete and ready to go. I picked up my $1.99 capacitor that was in stock at RS, and I'll work on the subset next.
Thanks SO much. Is there any way I can repay the favor?
Otto
Finally, complete success. The phone/subset combo works! It calls out, it rings, it takes calls.
For posterity (other newbies like me) here are marked pictures of the final setup.
Your last photo shows a 5 µF capacitor connected to C and K. Actually, this is the 47A capacitor -- 2 µF -- and should be connected to C and BK. Otherwise, the black conductor from the phone is just sitting on a spare terminal.
Although the ringer will work as shown, in the original diagram -- and in the caption accompanying the photo -- the red ringer wire connects to L1, the black ringer wire to K, and the new 1 µF capacitor to L2Y and K.
Quote from: poplar1 on September 12, 2015, 10:06:04 AM
Your last photo shows a 5 µF capacitor connected to C and K. Actually, this is the 47A capacitor -- 2 µF -- and should be connected to C and BK. Otherwise, the black conductor from the phone is just sitting on a spare terminal.
Although the ringer will work as shown, in the original diagram -- and in the caption accompanying the photo -- the red ringer wire connects to L1, the black ringer wire to K, and the new 1 µF capacitor to L2Y and K.
Thank you for catching these mistakes! This was in fact exactly how I had wired the phone; I had just not updated my picture properly. I've now replaced the subset picture with one that fixes the errors and reflects my final wiring. I hope these pictures help another beginner.