Second Newbie Project: Wiring a WE Candlestick Rotary (51/151 AL?) to a 634AT Subset

[oyang]

OK; sounds like the practical thing to do is to add a capacitor to make it work as a 634A (if I am interpreting everything correctly).

I'll let new pictures of the subunit do the talking to avoid confusion.  There is only one capacitor that I can see, which has only two terminals (not four) and appears to be labeled "COND 47A" and "2MF" that I assume means 2 µF capacitance. The two closeup photos are just different angles of the same capacitor to try to capture the labels for you.

So that would be the capacitor for the voice circuit, and I need to add a 1 µF capacitor for the ringer?  Is this a standard electronic part I can get from Radio Shack?  Of course I'll have to get advice about where to install the capacitor and what wires go where!

Thanks again,

Otto

[unbeldi]

Ok, now the situation is clear.  Your capacitor is the 2 µF unit that was originally in the box.
You can see how important it is to report every little detail.  Sometimes it's just not obvious for beginners where to find those details.

Yes, the part is very standard.  Aside from the capacitance of 1 µF, it should have been tested against break down to at least 250 volts.   I am sure R.S. has them, for a price.

Here it is:  http://www.radioshack.com/1-0uf-250v-10-metal-film-capacitor/2721055.html

(It says:  This 1.0µF 250V 10% metal-film capacitor can help you with many of your electronics projects! there you go)

The price is $1.99.

If you are in less a hurry,  your can get 10 of them or more, for the same price from China via eBay without shipping cost.


The new capacitor goes in series with the ringer, simply insert it into one of the two ringer leads before connecting them to L1 and L2.  The standard way to accomplish this is by using terminal K on the wood connector block.

line-------L1--------ringer---------K------------|capacitor|----------L2--------line

[oyang]

Super; thank you.  I'll splurge on the $1.99 from RS on my way home from work; I doubt I'll need 9 more of them in my lifetime.

I wired the phone last night; I had not realized how big a job it would be. All internal wiring was missing except for the two from the transmitter, which were badly frayed and too short to reach the phone base (they were wired into the hook). So I ended up cutting and crimping/spading every single wire new. Then I saw that someone had cut the black output wire for connection to the subset, so I had to open up the metal fastener on the brown cloth cord to peel it back and splice a new black wire.  I think the phone is fully ready, except for a connection I need to make because it has a 5H and not 2H dial?  I used a meter to check between output wires, and see that there are two circuits that close/open (I forget now which; it may have been red/green and black/red or black/green?) when I use the hook.  It's very exciting to think that I am bringing this phone back to life, probably after decades of nonuse.

Otto

[oyang]

subset.
You will need to rewire the set. The receiver connects to W on the dial and GN on the left terminal block, rather than directly to the hookswitch.  You will need 5 conductors between the hookswitch (4) and transmitter (1) to the base of the phone, in addition to the short transmitter wire shown going from the transmitter to the hookswitch. Since you are using a 5H dial, rather than a 2A shown in the diagram, you will need to strap the BB and R terminals together on the dial.

Thanks for this info.  I did all the wiring (see the prior post); I think I got them all, including the 4 from hookswitch and 1 from transmitter to the base of the phone, as well as one from the transmitter to the hookswitch. Based on the very helpful prior thread,

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=13718.0

I did these:

(BLUE) from B on hookswitch to B-Y on left terminal block
(YELLOW) from  Y on hookswitch to Y on dial
(RED) from  YY-R on hookswitch to R on right terminal block
(DOUBLE BLUE) from BB on hookswitch to BB on dial
(BLACK) from Transmitter to BK on dial
Other transmitter wire to YY-R on hookswitch
Receiver to GN on right terminal block and W on dial

I just wanted to double check the 5H dial wiring: I need to run one more wire from the dial BB to the right terminal block R?

Thanks!

Otto

[unbeldi]

just install a very small wire jumper between the BB and R screws directly on the dial, not on the terminal block.

The No. 2A dial combines these into a single screw, so on the 5H you need to correct for that.

[oyang]

just install a very small wire jumper between the BB and R screws directly on the dial, not on the terminal block.

The No. 2A dial combines these into a single screw, so on the 5H you need to correct for that.

I'm not sure where to find "R" on the dial.  Is my labeling of the terminals correct, and is one of the two places I marked in red the "R" terminal?

[unbeldi]

R is where your W is.

[unbeldi]

Here are the dial schematics for comparison, so you see what the difference is.
The original 2A dial is on the left, your 5H on the right.   By bridging R and BB, they function the same.

[oyang]

R is where your W is.

Great; thank you.... another case of my looking at the wrong diagram. I think this phone is complete and ready to go.  I picked up my $1.99 capacitor that was in stock at RS, and I'll work on the subset next.

Thanks SO much.  Is there any way I can repay the favor?

Otto

[oyang]

Finally, complete success.  The phone/subset combo works!  It calls out, it rings, it takes calls.

For posterity (other newbies like me) here are marked pictures of the final setup.

[poplar1]

Your last photo shows a 5 µF  capacitor connected to C and K. Actually, this is the 47A capacitor -- 2 µF -- and should be connected to C and BK. Otherwise, the black conductor from the phone is just sitting on a spare terminal.

Although the ringer will work as shown, in the original diagram -- and in the caption accompanying the photo -- the red ringer wire connects to L1, the black ringer wire to K, and the new 1 µF  capacitor to L2Y and K.

[oyang]

Your last photo shows a 5 µF  capacitor connected to C and K. Actually, this is the 47A capacitor -- 2 µF -- and should be connected to C and BK. Otherwise, the black conductor from the phone is just sitting on a spare terminal.

Although the ringer will work as shown, in the original diagram -- and in the caption accompanying the photo -- the red ringer wire connects to L1, the black ringer wire to K, and the new 1 µF  capacitor to L2Y and K.

Thank you for catching these mistakes!  This was in fact exactly how I had wired the phone; I had just not updated my picture properly.  I've now replaced the subset picture with one that fixes the errors and reflects my final wiring. I hope these pictures help another beginner.