Northern Electric metal 302

[NorthernElectric]

I just picked this up at the post office this morning, a 1941 Northern Electric metal 302.  I found it on a classified ad web site and paid $40C for it plus $22.57C postage.  Took a quick peek inside and the base, coil, and ringer all have 1941 date codes.  I didn't see a date code on the case.  Should there be one?  Was Northern Electric still making these in metal in `41?  The dial has a dust cover so I think that means it's a #6, so a later replacement.  I am not so nervous about taking the dial apart to service now, because it sticks (which I posted about pre-purchase here).  I will likely replace the dial down the road with one of the same vintage as the phone.  The transmitter and receiver capsules have also been replaced at different times.  The paint is in pretty good shape with some light wear in the cradle and on the ears and a bit of a rub mark on one side from the receiver, so I will probably just clean it up.  The line cord with 4 prong plug was a pleasant surprise.  I just rechecked the sellers photos and it was in one of them at the very edge of the photo in the shadows but I failed to notice it.

[DNO]

Nice find Cliff. 

I have two NE 302s:  one from 1941 and the other from 1946.  Both have metal bodies.  I don't think Northern Electric switched to tenite as early as Western Electric.  Neither of my phones have dates on the shell, just on the base (and various components, of course).  My '41 has brown cloth cords that look original. 

I often use my 1946 as my main phone.  I rotate them once in a while...currently its a red NE 500. 

[rbouch]

I have a metal ne302 with 46 dating inside as well. I had assumed that somebody had just slapped a metal case on a 46 ringer, but the phone seemed "real" when I got it home.
Has a 5h dial that sounds oddly like a 4h dial.  It doesn't "tick" as loud as a 4h but my 49 plastic ne302 seems to "whirr" with its 5h.

so maybe Nortern Electric kept going with the metal shells despite the war (no dating on my metal shell eithrr and I think the paint job is original)?

[andre_janew]

Sometimes all you have to do to get a dial to stop sticking is to take the cover off, give it a shot of WD 40, and put the cover back on.

[Doug Rose]

DO NOT use WD40. I use Marvel Mystery oil, but sewing machine oil is fine. Clock oil...DO NOT use WD40...Doug

[NorthernElectric]

Because the dial was likely a later replacement (a 6A) I swapped the dial for another 6A from my 352, which was awaiting reassembly.  That way, I was able to fully test the 302, give it a quick clean up, and it's ready to use.  I did service the sticky dial out of it prior to reassembling the 352, in which it is currently installed.  I lubricated it with Hoppe's #9 that I had on hand, and which if memory serves, was recommended by a couple of posters in another thread on this forum.

[tallguy58]

I have a June 1946 metal NE 302. It has a 1946 5H dial.  The kid now has it in his room.

He shows his friends how to use it. They've never seen anything like it but once they dial for the first time, they all want to call someone.

[Partyline4]

DO NOT use WD40. I use Marvel Mystery oil, but sewing machine oil is fine. Clock oil...DO NOT use WD40...Doug

Please elaborate about why to not use WD40.

[Ktownphoneco]

I repair, service, calibrate and sell the odd Western and Northern dials.   WD40 is great for the short term on farm machinery and the like, but if you want to properly lubricate "dials", use a synthetic Swiss watch oil such as Moebius.      The top and bottom gear bearing points on a type 6 dial should be lubricated with Moebius clock grease.    It not only lubricates the bearing surfaces, it helps quiet some of the gear noise some of the type 6 dials tend to make.      Synthetic watch oils and grease have two good characteristics which are important when it comes to lubricating dials.     They aren't "dust magnets", and they stay where they're applied.      Use a small slender artists brush to apply small quantities of oil to the bearing surfaces.      Use a round wooden tooth pick to apply a small amount of grease to the bearing points on the type 6 dials.     Most importantly, "CLEAN" the dial thoroughly before applying lubricants.      Most dials are dirty, and lubricating bearing bearing surfaces just puts the dirt into suspension in the lubricant, causing it to chew away at the mating metal parts.     
WD 40 is the biggest dirt trap in town, that's why I would never use the stuff, plus it "stinks", or at least it does in my opinion.

Enjoy the day.              ....   Jeff Lamb

[DavePEI]

I repair, service, calibrate and sell the odd Western and Northern dials.   WD40 is great for the short term on farm machinery and the like, but if you want to properly lubricate "dials", use a synthetic Swiss watch oil such as Moebius.      The top and bottom gear bearing points on a type 6 dial should be lubricated with Moebius clock grease.    It not only lubricates the bearing surfaces, it helps quiet some of the gear noise some of the type 6 dials tend to make.      Synthetic watch oils and grease have two good characteristics which are important when it comes to lubricating dials.     They aren't "dust magnets", and they stay where they're applied.      Use a small slender artists brush to apply small quantities of oil to the bearing surfaces.      Use a round wooden tooth pick to apply a small amount of grease to the bearing points on the type 6 dials.     Most importantly, "CLEAN" the dial thoroughly before applying lubricants.      Most dials are dirty, and lubricating bearing bearing surfaces just puts the dirt into suspension in the lubricant, causing it to chew away at the mating metal parts.     
WD 40 is the biggest dirt trap in town, that's why I would never use the stuff, plus it "stinks", or at least it does in my opinion.

Enjoy the day.              ....   Jeff Lamb

Right on, Jeff. Moebius 941/2 Synthetic Watch Oil is what I use, too. (8000-8030 Moebius works well, too. Moebius is pricey, but you use such a small amount, it lasts forever. I am told Marvel oil works well, too, but haven't tried it. Now, I am lazy, and most often clean the dials with minimal dissassembly, in watch cleaning solution in an ultrasonic cleaner. I usually run it for several cycles, flipping the dial between cycles. Seems to work quite well, but it is better yet to disassemble it. Finally rinse in hot water, let thoroughly dry, then re-lubricate sparingly (use a toothpick of other tool to apply the oil)

Dave

[Partyline4]

Right on dave!

I was just thinking about using one to clean mine.

I had this old AE40 dial that was making a bunch of racket one time, and I had to clean it TWICE before it was pleasantly smooth.

Amazing how dirty these things get; probably during the later years out in the family garage.