North Electric's version of the 500.

[TelePlay]

Or JB Weld. I would add a few strands of fine copper wire to stiffen it up.

Or a rectangular piece of fine mesh metal screen that will become imbedded is the surface layer of JB Weld or 2 part epoxy for extra strength over the fracture. Metal (not plastic) window screen, for example.

[countryman]

I'm not familiar with this piece, but would it work to drill small holes on both sides of the fracture and glue in a piece of piano wire with epoxy?

[Jon Kolger]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  You guys certainly have more faith in glue than I do.  Whatever material this is made of, it seems kind of crumbly internally.  I haven't tried to glue it yet, but may give it a try if nothing else pans out.  Thanks again!

[MaximRecoil]

Thanks for all the suggestions.  You guys certainly have more faith in glue than I do.  Whatever material this is made of, it seems kind of crumbly internally.  I haven't tried to glue it yet, but may give it a try if nothing else pans out.  Thanks again!

You could have someone make one on a 3D printer. I'd glue it back together in order to scan it in a flatbed scanner, then trace the scan in a CAD program. It would be good to have a pair of calipers to double-check all your dimensions (you don't even need to scan it in and trace it if you make thorough measurements with calipers; just draw it in the CAD program from those measurements). Then you could send the CAD drawing to anyone who does 3D printing.

Another way of making one, which would almost certainly be more durable than a 3D-printed part, is to get a sheet of plastic, e.g., ABS, of the same thickness as the original part (I'm guessing it's around 1/16" thick), trace the original part onto the plastic sheet with a scribe tool, then cut it out with a small, sharp chisel, and clean up the edges with a small file and/or sandpaper afterwards.

[rdelius]

Remember this repair  has to be non conductive to insulate the switch blades