News:

"The phone is a remarkably complex, simple device,
and very rarely ever needs repairs, once you fix them." - Dan/Panther

Main Menu

No keys on Western Electric 1D2 - how to open?

Started by timmerk, March 31, 2011, 10:23:28 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

dayoff

Thanks for the quick replies everyone... any idea how much time to sink into the hammer drill method before determining whether or not it's a lost cause?  I have about 20 minutes against the lock without any sign of anything (other than a new hole i'm creating...).  I have a drill press so that sounds much more fun than feeling my arms vibrate from a hammer drill for a couple hours...but again, if it needs to be done for a couple hours to loosen things up, maybe that's worth the time in the long run...has anyone done the hammer drill with any success to know roughly how much time they had into it?

DavePEI

#31
Quote from: dayoff on October 21, 2012, 04:11:39 PM
Thanks for the quick replies everyone... any idea how much time to sink into the hammer drill method before determining whether or not it's a lost cause?  I have about 20 minutes against the lock without any sign of anything (other than a new hole i'm creating...).  I have a drill press so that sounds much more fun than feeling my arms vibrate from a hammer drill for a couple hours...but again, if it needs to be done for a couple hours to loosen things up, maybe that's worth the time in the long run...has anyone done the hammer drill with any success to know roughly how much time they had into it?

If you don't seem to be making any progress, reverse the hammer drill direction. 20 minutes to 1/2 hour should do it if it is going to. It is the vibration of the impact of the drill that will cause the screws to rotate out, not the drilling action.

Dave
The Telephone Museum of Prince Edward Island:
http://www.islandregister.com/phones/museum.html
Free Admission - Call (902) 651-2762 to arrange a visit!
C*NET 1-651-0001

dayoff

What's the hammer drill catching on, though?  When I tried it, basically the bit wears down fairly quickly and then you're basically just transferring the vibration with the bit spinning rather freely, making a bit of a hole for itself...is it supposed to be lodged in the lock and not rotating fully?  Almost sounds like I would want a flathead bit instead of a drilling bit

paul

Quote from: DavePEI on October 21, 2012, 03:58:03 PM

Make sure you have an L or T key to complete the unlocking. These are easy to get

Not so easy I have found. While I have found many places who will sell one for ~$4, they want $10 or more to ship it.  This thing will fit in a Priority flat rate envelope, It should cost no more than $5 for that. Graybar doesn't seem to have them either.

ESalter

We had to break into the vault of our WE 1C1 when we first got it.  We drilled a bunch of holes in the vault door to create a perforated + shape.  We then cut to connect the holes with a cutoff wheel in a high speed die grinder.  After that, we pried the "flaps" of the vault door up and cut the inside locking arms of the vault door and it pretty much fell out after that.  No damage to the phone, just needed a new vault door.  In addition to that, we carefully opened the vault lock and rearanged the "tumbler arms" so the lock now matches an extra key we had.  Took about half an hour total to cut it open.  We found $0.50 inside the cash box too! :)

---Eric

DavePEI

#35
Quote from: dayoff on October 21, 2012, 05:29:05 PM
What's the hammer drill catching on, though?  When I tried it, basically the bit wears down fairly quickly and then you're basically just transferring the vibration with the bit spinning rather freely, making a bit of a hole for itself...is it supposed to be lodged in the lock and not rotating fully?  Almost sounds like I would want a flathead bit instead of a drilling bit
As long as you don't mind starting the drilling of the lock with the hammer drill, go ahead and use the bit the normal way. However, in 20 minutes, of the magic doesn't happen, it is unlikely to work - the screws are  too tight to vibrate loose. Then it is time to switch to the drill press and go at the drilling in earnest.

Remember, start with a small bit, and gradually increase its size until you can pry out the tumbler. Just be careful so you don't scratch out the outside of the phone around the lock.

When you get the tumbler out, reach inside with a screwdriver with a small screwdriver to slide back the latch.

Don't forget when you have the lock out, you will have to very carefully remove all the drill cuttings off the PCBs before energizing the phone, otherwise they may short out the board. A combination of a vacuum cleaner and some hand removal will suffice, and leave your phone really clean inside.

Its nerve-wracking, and if you are worried about doing it, it might be a good idea to have it done by a locksmith.

Dave
The Telephone Museum of Prince Edward Island:
http://www.islandregister.com/phones/museum.html
Free Admission - Call (902) 651-2762 to arrange a visit!
C*NET 1-651-0001

AE_Collector

Knowing what things look like inside would potential help you drill as well. If you had any way to look at another phone that is already openable....

I don't know if there are pictures on the net already, probably.

The lock prevents a larger lever on the vault door from rotating to the open position. The lever on the vaiult door is operated by the "T" key through the hole in the centre of the vault door. As Eric mentioned, there are 4 levers on the back of the vault door that lodge into the frame of the phone.

Terry