5302 with GF Handset

[Stormcrash]

Managed to score a WE 5302G-GF on eBay for $15 + shipping. I have been keeping an eye out for one with the GF handset for a while and found this by searching "rotary phone black" instead of for a 5302 spcecifically
https://www.ebay.com/itm/194750676004

Phone is in excellent condition with no big scratches in the shell. Has a #5 Dial as well. I just have 2 issues with the phone, the adapter cup for the HA receiver is missing (along with the receiver but that's easier to find) and the receiver cap only wants to screw on part way before getting stuck (possible plastic shrinkage, it's the correct cap with the H in the  middle)

[tubaman]

Very nice - I do like 5302s. My one has the earlier F handset but I'd like one with a G type like this.
Your G1 handset appears to have the later acrylic caps and they are often not a good match for each other.

[poplar1]

Very nice - I do like 5302s. My one has the earlier F handset but I'd like one with a G type like this.
Your G1 handset appears to have the later acrylic caps and they are often not a good match for each other.

This is not a standard G1 handset. Rather, it is a GF type: G1 handle, HA1 receiver unit, and F1 transmitter unit, and special caps marked "H" and "F." I have never seen these special caps in Bakelite: Perhaps they were not introduced until 1958 or 1959.

Photo from
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=23052.msg231712#msg231712

[Stormcrash]

I believe the caps are the usual GF tenite ones, they are indeed marked F and H. I can exercise the receiver cap to get it on more but it then becomes very hard to remove. I think the transmitter cup has shrunk a little too, the thread adapter is actually stuck on the phone and the F transmitter is still stuck in the cap

I have a U1 receiver in it right now for testing and the phone works fine but has higher sidetone due to the U1. The bells may need some adjustment, had to move the tension spring off of high but the gong positions are odd so the clapper doesn't always strike both

In terms of age the base, ringer, network and transmitter are all dated 1952, though the transmitter has multiple stamps with the newest being 12/1960

[tubaman]

This is not a standard G1 handset. Rather, it is a GF type: G1 handle, HA1 receiver unit, and F1 transmitter unit, and special caps marked "H" and "F." I have never seen these special caps in Bakelite: Perhaps they were not introduced until 1958 or 1959.

Photo from
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=23052.msg231712#msg231712

I learn something new every day! I didn't realise a special GF handset was made for the 5302, but given that it has 302 series innards it makes perfect sense that it needs the right handset inserts.

[Stormcrash]

Yeah the 4 flavors of handset you'll see on a 5302 are Regular F1, F4 (F1 with G elements and adapters inside), GF (F with F elements and adapters), Regular G (either used on long/rural lines or from an at home refurb)

I would ask if anyone has a spare insert for the HA1 receiver in the GF but I suspect they're rarer than hens teeth given that you only find a GF attached to a 5300 so spare parts are unlikely. May have to give some though on how one could be fabricated, I have a friend with a 3d printer so may have to give some thought to how one can be made

Any tips on how to dislodge the transmitter and to get the receiver cap to go all the way on easily again? I think if I just keep working it the tenite threads will adjust against the bakelite from heat/friction but not sure if that's the best way

[HowardPgh]

I like the squatty front to back dimensions of the 5302.

[paul-f]

I would ask if anyone has a spare insert for the HA1 receiver in the GF but I suspect they're rarer than hens teeth given that you only find a GF attached to a 5300 so spare parts are unlikely. May have to give some though on how one could be fabricated, I have a friend with a 3d printer so may have to give some thought to how one can be made

Any tips on how to dislodge the transmitter and to get the receiver cap to go all the way on easily again? I think if I just keep working it the tenite threads will adjust against the bakelite from heat/friction but not sure if that's the best way

It may be a challenge to find just that part, but finding whole GF handsets should be a lot easier. I commented on finding 5302 parts in this thread from 2011:http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=5414.msg66148#msg66148

As it turns out, I still have a few spare GF handsets. They're as removed from sets over a decade ago (NOT by me  ), untested and largely covered with a nice layer of protective mold -- but clean up nicely. As you have noticed, the plastic caps are quite tight and will need a strap wrench or other suitable force to remove them. In addition to the shrinking, there is usually a film of dried grunge holding the cap to the handle.

Once a cap is removed, I have had luck covering the threads with a mildly abrasive rubbing compound and working the caps on and off -- occasionally cleaning them off and applying fresh rubbing compound. It cleans the grunge and wears down some of the plastic, making the cap easier to turn.

Removing a really stuck F1 can be a problem. If mechanical force doesn't work, try heat. I have had a few cases where I had to cut off the cap to reuse the F1. (I do have a few spare caps in the GF box.)

If you're interested in a handset, PM or email a reasonable offer for discussion.

[Stormcrash]

Good to hear I was on the right track with just working the cap on and off. Got it so it goes on fully now and is only a little tighter than a normal cap. An abrasive is a good idea, could probably use toothpaste or even some novus as long as it gets washed out of the threads afterwords.

I was thinking of heat for the stuck transmitter and adapter ring. All the same though the transmitter works well and unless it being stuck can cause it to crack might be better to leave the adapter ring stuck to the G1

It's awesome to hear you have a few spare GF handsets Paul. Not sure I'd have the tools to crack one open if they're that stuck but might be my best bet. The thought of harvesting parts off another complete 5302 GF wasn't very appealing, and even just needing the one part a spares handset would probably be good to have. Who knows, with the correct insert on hand it might make it easier to fabricate a replacement part to make 2 fully working GF handets

[MMikeJBenN27]

Novus Plastic Polish #2 works well for this.  Just work the cap back and forth until if freely threads on and off, then clean it and the threads on the handset completely.  As for the stuck capsules, I GENTLY pry all around the circumference with a SMALL screw driver, gently working it out.  Usually this works.  Then, so it won't happen again, I enlarge the inside of the transmitter cap or the inside of the receiver cavity with course sand paper until they freely go in and out.  Be careful though, the sand paper can get pretty hot!  Lots of friction!

Mike

[Babybearjs]

I have one of those and love it! such a cool compact phone....

[Stormcrash]

Yeah, they're very neat little phones. I was on the lookout for one with a GF as it really completes the look, I have a 5302 with the F1 handset too that I got a few years ago for $15 + local pickup but I think the F looks a bit bulky on top and the G fits it better. Sadly that's the phone where I learned alcohol can dissolve tenite and did a few experiments with toothpaste and alcohol polishing to try and fix the streaking I caused. I still need to disassemble it again and give the parts a good polish with Novus. The GF set on the other hand is in amazing cosmetic condition, so far all I've done is a quick wipe with Novus 1 to get the dust off of it and it really doesn't need much more, perhaps just a light buff with Novus 2/1 to really get the mirror gloss back, and to clean a little bit of rust off of the dial washer.

Paul, that was interesting to read that people actively undo the 5302 conversion back to a 302. I suppose the 302 is the more collectible phone both for collectors and people who want that antique 40s look unless it's one of the rare colored 5302 sets (hopefully people weren't unconverting those)

Mike I don't think I have a screwdriver blade thin enough to really get in the crack to get leverage on the transmitter, I may try heat but it's not a bit issue thankfully. If I do get it off at some point enlarging the hole like that sounds like a good idea. Do kind of wish the thread adapter wasn't stuck on the G1 portion though, and heating/getting a grip on that without destroying the threads seems like it would be tough