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CITESA? “Gondola” trimline style phone ringer issues

Started by bdoss2006, November 11, 2022, 12:19:36 PM

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bdoss2006

I have an itt trimline phone that I connected the green wire from the new cord to the post with the green wire from the old cord. I connected the red wire the same way (The posts are labeled L1 and L2). It works except it wont ring. The ringer has 2 wires, one going to the same post as the red wire and one going to one labeled T1. I moved the ringer wires around and still can't get it to ring. Did any of them have frequency ringers?

Here is a picture, it's not very high quality but it will do I guess.

*INSERTED IMAGE REMOVED*

HarrySmith

I recommend remove that chunk of cut off wiring. It looks like one of the spades may be shorting across a couple of terminals. Is there a ringer in there? Some did not have ringers. L1 & L2 should work.
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

bdoss2006

Quote from: HarrySmith on November 11, 2022, 12:46:45 PMI recommend remove that chunk of cut off wiring. It looks like one of the spades may be shorting across a couple of terminals. Is there a ringer in there? Some did not have ringers. L1 & L2 should work.
I'll try that. It does have a ringer. I have another on that I posted about that doesn't have a ringer (I noticed you commented on it) reckon it has been removed or didn't have one from the start?

HarrySmith

Some required a separate ringer box that was mounted down on the baseboard. They were originally designed as a bedroom extension phone. WE did not think a ringer going off next to your head while you were sleeping was a great idea.
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

bdoss2006

#4
Quote from: HarrySmith on November 11, 2022, 01:19:43 PMSome required a separate ringer box that was mounted down on the baseboard. They were originally designed as a bedroom extension phone. WE did not think a ringer going off next to your head while you were sleeping was a great idea.
well unhooking the old cord didn't help. I still can't get it to work. Here is a picture of the ringer and one of the number on it. I've never seen one like it.

**INSERTED IMAGES REMOVED**

bdoss2006

Quote from: HarrySmith on November 11, 2022, 01:19:43 PMSome required a separate ringer box that was mounted down on the baseboard. They were originally designed as a bedroom extension phone. WE did not think a ringer going off next to your head while you were sleeping was a great idea.
well unhooking the old cord didn't help. I still can't get it to work. In my other comment is a picture of the ringer and one of the number on it. I've never seen one like it.

TelePlay

Have
Quote from: bdoss2006 on November 11, 2022, 12:19:36 PMI connected the red wire the same way (The posts are labeled L1 and L2). It works except it wont ring. The ringer has 2 wires, one going to the same post as the red wire and one going to one labeled T1.

If one ringer wire goes to the red line cord terminal, and the other ringer wire goes to T1, where does T1 go? It should go through a capacitor and the capacitor should go to the green line cord terminal to complete the ringer circuit.

If the capacitor wire goes to "G" which would be the yellow line cord wire for grounded ringing, that capacitor wire should be moved from the yellow wire "G" terminal to the green line cord terminal.

The ringer is a simple circuit, L1 to ringer, ringer to capacitor and capacitor to L2.

bdoss2006

#7
Quote from: TelePlay on November 13, 2022, 05:35:18 PMHave
If one ringer wire goes to the red line cord terminal, and the other ringer wire goes to T1, where does T1 go?...
here is a picture of the wiring diagram in it. I circled what appears to be the ringer. The T1 terminal looks to go through something that looks like a resistor to me then to the hook switch.

TelePlay

When on hook, the ringer circuit is from green (L2)line cord to the ringer to T1 to a 5.6K ohm resistor through the hook switch to a 1 uF capacitor to L1.

Should work. Don't know why the resistor is in there.

Can you use a clip wire to connect T1 directly to the hook switch side of the resistor (take the resistor out of the ring circuit) to see if the ringer works without it when the phone is on hook?

TelePlay

Do you have a DVM so you can check the resistance of the ringer? It should have 500 to 1,500 ohms resistance when out of the circuit (remove the wire from T1 before taking a reading).

Adding a 5,000 ohm load may be enough to prevent your line current from ringing the phone.

What phone service are you using, a copper POTS land line or a digital modem?

bdoss2006

#10
Quote from: TelePlay on November 13, 2022, 06:15:53 PMWhen on hook, the ringer circuit is from green (L2)line cord to the ringer to T1 to a 5.6K ohm resistor through the hook switch to a 1 uF capacitor to L1.

Should work. Don't know why the resistor is in there.

Can you use a clip wire to connect T1 directly to the hook switch side of the resistor (take the resistor out of the ring circuit) to see if the ringer works without it when the phone is on hook?
well it still won't ring, I even tried bypassing the hook switch and just going through the capacitor and it still wouldn't ring. I may not have done that right though.

TelePlay

Or the ringer may have issues.

Using a DVM to check the continuity of the ringer coil and determine its resistance if the coil is continuous would be very helpful.

And, what type of line source are you using for your phones?

And, I assume you are depressing the hook switch, putting it on hook, when calling the phone.


bdoss2006

Quote from: TelePlay on November 13, 2022, 07:15:36 PMOr the ringer may have issues.

Using a DVM to check the continuity of the ringer coil and determine its resistance if the coil is continuous would be very helpful.

And, what type of line source are you using for your phones?

And, I assume you are depressing the hook switch, putting it on hook, when calling the phone.


I am depressing the hook switch, I'm using a landline, I plan on buying a multimeter tomorrow.

bdoss2006

Quote from: TelePlay on November 13, 2022, 07:15:36 PMOr the ringer may have issues.

Using a DVM to check the continuity of the ringer coil and determine its resistance if the coil is continuous would be very helpful.

And, what type of line source are you using for your phones?

And, I assume you are depressing the hook switch, putting it on hook, when calling the phone.


I'm getting about 1,800 ohms resistance on the ringer.

TelePlay

That seems high, and with the resistor, 7,400 ohms.

Do you have any other ringer available, a WE 500 C4A or WE302 B1A or even an older twin coil subset ringer, you could electrically put into your phone (using clip wires from green to ringer and ringer to capacitor - with the phones current ringer disconnected) to see if it works and if so, you may have a bad ringer.

That high resistance is beyond anything I have seen before. Maybe someone else knows if there is a purpose of high resistance.