WE 500 not ringing

[Bingles]

My WE 500 is not ringing.  I don't even see the clapper moving.  I have included a pic.. anything I can try?

[Gilas]

With a c2a think E should have slate/red and the slate, K gets red, and L1 gets black

[Bingles]

So... what am I doing??? lol

This all just looks like a mess of wires to me. haha

[poplar1]

Lowrey, don't know where you heard that info. There is no E terminal that I recall in a WE 500 set, and a C2A is wired just like a C4A. The wires appear to be correct in the photograph. The ringer may be defective or the capacitor.

The difference in a C2A and a C4A is that the C4A has the hole needed for the ringer adjustment on a 554 wall phone or 685A subset.

[Phonesrfun]

Lowrey:  The photo Bingles posted is the later 425-B (or later) network with the ringer capacitor between terminals A and K.  You might be referring to the oldest of the 500's that had a 425-A network, which did have an E terminal which had the ringer capacitor connected to it.

Bingles:  You are probably going to need an ohm meter or continuity checker to troubleshoot your problem.  It appears to be wired correctly, as Poplar1 has indicated, so since it is wired correctly, it might be a failed part.

[Bingles]

Thanks folks!

[DavePEI]

Thanks folks!

Does that mean it works now?

D.

[poplar1]

Dave, I don't see what you are referring to. Spade tip wires are:

L2 (closest to edge of phone)=red line cord + red ringer wire + slate switchhook wire
G= yellow line cord
L1= green line cord + black ringer wire

Even if you are calling L1 "L2" and L2 "L1," I stil don't see what green wire you are referring to.

Since there are no other wires on G besides the yellow line cord, I don't see why it would matter if the other end of it is on the same screw with the green wire.

[DavePEI]

Dave, I don't see what you are referring to. Spade tip wires are:

L2 (closest to edge of phone)=red line cord + red ringer wire + slate switchhook wire
G= yellow line cord
L1= green line cord + black ringer wire

Even if you are calling L1 "L2" and L2 "L1," I stil don't see what green wire you are referring to.

Since there are no other wires on G besides the yellow line cord, I don't see why it would matter if the other end of it is on the same screw with the green wire.

Remove the Green wire on L2. Leave the black, and stow the green wire (wrap tape around it). Try it them...

Dave

[DavePEI]

Dave, I don't see what you are referring to. Spade tip wires are:

L2 (closest to edge of phone)=red line cord + red ringer wire + slate switchhook wire
G= yellow line cord
L1= green line cord + black ringer wire

Even if you are calling L1 "L2" and L2 "L1," I still don't see what green wire you are referring to.

Oops - never mind. My eyes were playing tricks on me. Have you tried measuring the coil of the ringer with an ohmmeter? Just remove its two wires from the terminals they are on, and check it with an ohmmeter.

Dave

[LarryInMichigan]

Have we verified that the problem is not too much tension from the bias spring?

Larry

[HowardPgh]

My vote is for an open coil.
Howard

[G-Man]

 A quick test without having to resort to an ohmmeter:

With ringer wires (black and red) left left connected to your incoming POTS (48-volts) line, disconnect one of the wires connected to the A or K terminals.

With the switchook depressed, scrape the disconnected wire across the terminal of the wire that is still connected to the remaining terminal (A or K).
Generally you will see the clapper move and may even strike the bells enough to produce a light tinkle sound.

Since this test is not always conclusive or if your line does not provide 48-volts, another test would be to scrape those same wires together while listening with your ear held to the receiver while the switchook is in the up position.

If the dial-tone lowers in volume when you connect the wires together, you will know the ringer has continuity.

Hopefully I did not make it sound too complicated!