D1 Phones, found 2 today?

[debeaune]

Hello all, found 2 of these today, they have a D1 on the back and the handset looks  to be an F1 with a different mouthpiece than I've seen before.  I assume these don't have ringers as I see some listed with a ringer box.  Was looking to polish them up and test them out and start looking for ringers, an chance of finding any?  Any clue on dates on these, or will I find out when I open them?  Any tips on working on these/opening them up, hate to do any damage?  Thank you...Tim

[unbeldi]

Hello all, found 2 of these today, they have a D1 on the back and the handset looks  to be an F1 with a different mouthpiece than I've seen before.  I assume these don't have ringers as I see some listed with a ringer box.  Was looking to polish them up and test them out and start looking for ringers, an chance of finding any?  Any clue on dates on these, or will I find out when I open them?  Any tips on working on these/opening them up, hate to do any damage?  Thank you...Tim

The handset are actually E1 types, and they look to be early types, without the groove along the handle. So, there is a change these two might actually be from the early 1930s.  Detailed pics of the inside of phones, and inscriptions on the handset handles and inside the handset elements will tell the exact dates.

However, at least on of these has been retrofitted with an F1 transmitter, something that happened starting in 1934.

yes, you will need subsets to use these properly.

[Phonesrfun]

Nice find.


They do need subsets to work properly as unbeldi said.  Subsets are more than just a box with a ringer in it.  They do contain a ringer, but they also have an induction coil and a capacitor.  Key components to the telephone.


In the early 1930's the ringer, coil and capacitor components had not yet been miniaturized to any degree.  It wasn't until the late 1930's that they engineered the components to all fit in the base of the phone. I.E. a 302.   Until then, the only choice was to have a huge phone on the desk, or split up the components and mount the subset on the wall tethered to the phone set itself.


Subsets are out there and available.  There are also ways of putting a modern mini-network in the base, and a variety of other ways of achieving what the subset does.  Even then, there is simply no room in the D1 base for a ringer.


I do not recommend connecting the desk set directly to the phone line without a subset or equivalent.  The subset separates the voice signal from the DC line current to keep DC out of the receiver.  If you connect the phone directly to the line you risk damaging the receiver, and with DC running through the receiver, the sound you hear will be somewhat muted, and you will hear unsafe and exceptionally loud pops in the receiver every time the dial or hookswitch operate.

[debeaune]

Great advice, thank you.  I'll start hunting down a D1 subset, is there any particulars I should be looing for or will any D1 subset work for me?  Thanks, will take pictures of the inside and post.  Tim

[unbeldi]

Great advice, thank you.  I'll start hunting down a D1 subset, is there any particulars I should be looing for or will any D1 subset work for me?  Thanks, will take pictures of the inside and post.  Tim

The kind of subset depends on the wiring of the desk top units.  I can't see if they still have their mounting cord. this is the cord that goes to the subset.  If it is a three-conductor cord then the unit is a sidetone instrument; if it has a four-conductor cord then it is wired for an anti-sidetone circuit.

Suitable subsets are:
sidetone:  534A (large steel cover), 584A (lower Bakelite cover)
anti-sidetone:  634A, 684A, or 684BA

The anti-sidetone subsets have 100 added to the model numbers, and contain two capacitors (in one can) vs. one, and a 146C, or 101A induction coil.

There are numerous threads here that cover these.

[debeaune]

Appreciate it, Tim