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Need advice on prepping and refinishing black scissorback WE

Started by rfkimba, February 01, 2014, 05:43:21 PM

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rfkimba

Hi faculty,
I purchased on Ebay recently the attached We scissorback 48a phone with 229w transmitter for $160. It came from an ATT museum that supposedly closed. Covered with 100 years of dirt. It cleaned up well showing all nickel the cup/faceplate. However the black paint is beat and I need to sand , prime and refinish. I was going to emory paper, prime with Rustoleum prime and then Rustoleum gloss protective black enamel  . However I dont know if there is a better way that will reproduce what was there originally. Any Sargeguy tutorials or other posts on this would be most appreciated as I want to learn how the pros do it?
Sincerly,
Bob Farber

rfkimba

Hi,
I am refinishing a WE scissorback and need to replace the missing WE manufacturing decal on the metal arm. Was there some advice on  this topic to review?
Thanks,
Bob Farber

TelePlay


dencins

From the time period of your phone the finish would be japan.  According to Ralph Meyer's book "japans are asphalt-like varnishes that are baked to produce a durable finish".  It has a "semi-dull black appearance that looks like a piece of polished rubber".

I do know I have had difficulty stripping some japan finishes but someone else will have to provide guidance on this since I have no idea how that is replicated.

Dennis Hallworth

HarrySmith

I have given some thought to what method would best replicate the Japanning finish. I have not had the opportuniy to to try any of them yet. The one method I really want to try is using the stuff that is applied to a pick up truck bed. Rhino liner is probably the best known name out there but there are many doi t yourself products also. They come in many colors and finishes, I think flat with no abrasives would work best. I do not have the shop space to try it so I am hoping one of you can perform the experiment and report the result.
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

rfkimba

If Japan finish is very difficult to reproduce then is there a more contemporary and easier  close second method like I suggested that will look similiar?
Bob

Sargeguy

I have some asphaltum that I am going to try to dissolve in mineral spirits one of these days.   I would use a couple coats of black semi-gloss enamel spray paint then bake it to harden it.  You can then polish it with steel wool to dull the finish to your liking. 

Stripping and painting are not the big problem with these. Taking them apart and putting them back together would be the hardest part.  Those scissors do not look that bad actually. Is there a second coat of paint?  If so, remove the second coat with Citri-strip, polish with denatured alcohol and then assess whether you need to repaint or just polish the original coat.   If you can restore the original finish it usually looks better than a re-paint.
Greg Sargeant
Providence, RI
TCI /ATCA #4409

rfkimba

Hi Sargegy,
You are correct that there is an easy to remove gloss coat on the japan base. With Citri-strip initial application ,  I then  expect about 90% of the japan to be intact after  rust spots are removed with emory paper. If I decide to repaint what is the best way to prepare the japan surface for the semigloss spray? Should I roughen all with emory or steel wool, spray Rustoleum primer over all, then overspray with semigloss black or only just touch prime the spots of bare metal alone roughen all and overspray?   

I found the following link on how to make japan paint. Its production is well above my pay grade. But for the brave(crazy) among us:

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45942

Preppping in Jersey,
Bob Farber

Sargeguy

I have one of these as well that I plan to restore.
At this point I would use a chemical rust remover like Metal Rescue that does not remove paint, or just apply it to spots.  I would then put 3 coats of paint and not work about priming it.  Bake it for 45 minutes at 250-300 and then sand the whole thing with #0000 sandpaper or Mirlon 2500 then polish with Novus #2
Greg Sargeant
Providence, RI
TCI /ATCA #4409

paul-f

When you get around to recording, try to find or fabricate some clips to hold the cord, rather than routing it through the holes in the arm.
Visit: paul-f.com         WE  500  Design_Line

.

rfkimba

Hi Sargeguy,
Steel wool comes in 0000 . Did you mean steel wool or a particular grit sandpaper?
Thanks,
Bob

Sargeguy

I don't like using sandpaper on paint.  I meant to say steel wool.
Greg Sargeant
Providence, RI
TCI /ATCA #4409