How old do these 500 models get? I found a 57 and Im pretty excited about it!

[Karen]

I know they go through the 50s, Ive just never gotten one that looked so nice.  The part in the ear is dated 55.  So it got me thinking, just how far back do these Bell 500s go?

[AE_Collector]

Cut and paste this:

Now the Story Can be Told

into the search box.

Be sure to do so from the home menu, not within one of the forum boards (unless it is the "Collectors Corner" board casue that is where the article you are searching for is located.

Terry

[Dennis Markham]

Welcome to the Forum, Karen.  Your model 500 looks very nice.  From the photos you've provided, here are some things that I notice.

The ringer bell assembly is dated 12/57.  Although I can't see the date on the network, I'll bet it is the same.  Perhaps too the back side of the dial mechanism.  It may read, -3 (Color code for black), 12-57, 7D.  The housing appears to have been made much later.  It has clear plungers as opposed to the earlier, Bakelite plungers---also called switch hook buttons.  The handset cord was more than likely replaced with the housing.  The end that comes out of the handset has a long tapered restraint.  Earlier handset cords have more of a flat, short stubby end that exits the end of the handset.

The 505A, round 4 prong plug is common from the early to mid 1960's.

The ear cap looks like it has 7 holes in it.  Early Bakelite and some plastic caps had only six holes in the handset cap.  The handset itself looks like it may be a G3, plastic handset as opposed to the G1 Bakelite that would have been on the phone in 1957.

It is a classic example of how the Bell System recycled and refurbished their phones to keep them in service.

As your phone is currently wired, with the black ringer wire going to the "G" terminal, it will not ring unless the green and yellow wires inside the round plug are attached on the same terminal.  If it's not ringing, you can simply move the wire from terminal G to terminal L1, as shown here:

http://www.porticus.org/bell/images/500ringerrewiring.jpg

One more thing about your ringer.  You can see a thin wire between and below the ringer gongs.  The end of it threads through a little maze-like opening.  More than likely it will ring much louder if you move the wire from its current position to the other position.

From what we can see the leather feet look to be in great shape.  It is a very nice Model 500.

[Karen]

Thanks Dennis!

I do usually move that black wire down to the green one, but its ringing loudly as it is.  I guess it must be wired accordingly in the plug.  Ill have to remember that if I ever need to rewire it for a modular.

That's one thing I wish I could do... add a modular onto the old cords. But it seems like the YGRB cables inside are so bendy and flimsy that I cant get them into the plug right.  The newer wires arent like that, so its no problem. I just have to remove the whole line to get a new plug on.  Not a big deal, but Ive had to take out the matching aqua or pink cords... makes me sad. 

[twocvbloke]

My black Northern Telecom 2500 is meant to be hard-wired (lacked a line cable when I got it), but I "modularised" it by fitting an RJ11 socket inside the phone, connecting it up as normal to the Network, then plugged in a round-profile "Super megafast broadband speed booster!!!" ADSL modem cable, securing it under the little cable hook on the base plate, closed it up and it looks perfect...

I should get a picture of it to show my work...

[JorgeAmely]

... It is a very nice Model 500.

"Thank you doctor" 

[twocvbloke]

Here we go, how to Modularise without cutting up original cables...

[Dennis Markham]

Karen, here's another option.  I have talked about these modular plugs in the past, but will bring it up again here.  PhoneCo sells a plug that will attach to the original mounting cords.  Nothing has to be cut or altered, leaving the cord in its original condition.

Here is a link to the Phoneco page.  Scroll down to part #212 (left side of the page):

http://www.phonecoinc.com/category.asp?rpage=search&category=Acc#01022

I will attach a couple of photos showing a better view of how the plug attaches.  I have not been able to find these modular type plugs anywhere else.  When I buy them I usually buy a quantity since I'm paying the shipping cost for just one plug.  I show in the second photo a comparison in size to the 283B 4-Prong plug.

[twocvbloke]

I suppose I should point out I wired my 2500 up like that cos we brits don't have easy access those hard-wired to Modular converters and we don't use RJ11 sockets for our phones, so I used what I have easy access to, that and the Line cable was 99p at a charity shop...

[Karen]

Karen, here's another option.  I have talked about these modular plugs in the past, but will bring it up again here.  PhoneCo sells a plug that will attach to the original mounting cords.  Nothing has to be cut or altered, leaving the cord in its original condition.

Here is a link to the Phoneco page.  Scroll down to part #212 (left side of the page):

http://www.phonecoinc.com/category.asp?rpage=search&category=Acc#01022

I will attach a couple of photos showing a better view of how the plug attaches.  I have not been able to find these modular type plugs anywhere else.  When I buy them I usually buy a quantity since I'm paying the shipping cost for just one plug.  I show in the second photo a comparison in size to the 283B 4-Prong plug.

Dennis- I assume these would work with no spade tips?  I can just wind the wire around the screws? Ive yet to get into the spade tip thing.  They are kind of spendy!

[Dennis Markham]

Karen, I'm sure baring the end of the wire and securing it on the plug, under the screw would work.

[paul-f]

When you strip the insulation off the end of the wire, look carefully at the exposed metal.  If it's a very thin metal wrapped around a central fiber or plastic center, it won't take much force to break the metal -- causing an intermittant or open connection.

Spade tips are recommended on this "tinsel" wire cord.

The spade tips make contact by piercing the insulation and the metal is crimped around the wire, supporting the thin metal.  That makes the connection much more reliable.

Spade tips can be found at many electronics shops or on-line, and can be crimped with flat bladed pliers with a little practice.  Investing in a crimping tool may make sense if you have or expect to have a growing collection.

[LarryInMichigan]

A package of suitable spade connectors is about $2 for a package of 24 at Radio Shack: RadioShack.com link (in the parts drawers).

Larry