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AE 182 Blue Starlight phone.

Started by shortrackskater, March 23, 2018, 06:34:07 PM

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stub

Terry,
          I did the same before I found this drawing , having forcefully removing a couple  ::) . Most of the time you can't hear the slight click as the tab drops into the recess.  stub
Kenneth Stubblefield

AE_Collector

and that recess must be smooth all the way around, no catches so the FW will rotate, hmmm, now to try it!

Terry

AE_Collector

#17
Yup...thing of beauty! This falls into the overthinking it category. A flat metal bar in its side can be flexed left or right, not up or down. With that in mind it needs to flex inwards to release from the catch to the outer edge. WRONG.

Had no idea there was the ability to push it downwards and that doing so would get past the catch. Takes a moment to get the edge of it but then it is easy to push it downwards an 1/8". Learn something new every day!

Thanks Ken!

Terry

shortrackskater

Got it...
Good lord! The tab simply was not really under the hole but I tweaked the paper clip enough and just kept at it.  Finally it clicked able to turn the dial a little more to the right and it came free.
I was able to get that horrible adhesive off the finger wheel with WD40, then Novus #3 and then #2.
Mark J.

stub

#19
 shortrackskater,
                        Remove the finger stop and remove the 3 screws holding dial plate and then you can remove the light ring.  stub         sorry it took so long ,I had to resize pics.
Kenneth Stubblefield

shortrackskater

Thanks all for everything, again.
Removing this was simple compared to that wheel. 
Mark J.

stub

shortrackskater,
                    I don't think you need the large screw in the middle of your dial , look at my 4th pic and see if you have the 2 dimples in your finger wheel lock .   stub
Kenneth Stubblefield

AE_Collector

Some early versions of dials with this style fingerwheel used the big screw to hold the metal piece in place that holds the fingerwheel. Then they started spot welding the metal piece in but kept supplying that screw. I wondered if it was left to prevent the number card from moving back on the cavity.

Terry

rdelius

#23
 Dont forger the dials with the spot welded mount with no screw hole .if the mount got damaged it could  not be replaced. replacements could be installed if the screw hole was supplied along with a screw

shortrackskater

My screw looks like it's been there about 55 years now.  :P
I tried to unscrew it without a ton of force, and it wants to stay, so I'm leaving it be.
Mark J.

shortrackskater

#25
Just to tidy up this thread... the phone is working and illuminating! Thanks to all especially stub for the information on this interesting way to light up a phone. Last night after turning off the lights awhile, I glanced over at the phone from bed and it looked great! Later in the evening I actually "dialed down" the intensity.
I think the phone looks good. I polished it with Novus heavy duty and fine scratch remover. The camera shows more UV damage than you can see with the eyes but I'm wondering if anyone knows if this surface can be sanded with 0000 steel wool, like I do for the tenite phone?

NOTE: This topic was split so that the new subject of adding "cuttable" electroluminescent material over the ring could be discussed further.
Mark J.

HarrySmith

Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

stub

Mark,
        Great job !!!!   BTW tell Andy he can join this crazy bunch too !!  stub
Kenneth Stubblefield

dsk

I love these dials, and I do not understand why this not has been common.


dsk

shortrackskater

#29
Last night was the second night I left it plugged in on my "counter of phones." And I did leave the brightness just a little before the full setting. When I look at it, the glow level is perfect. It reminds me of seeing a illuminated pool at nighttime.
Mark J.