Recent posts

#1

Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: NEED HELP! Painting metal ...

Last post by turbofirev8 - Today at 05:50:40 PM

I actually sanded everything by hand with 150 when I initially striped the original finish from them. Stripping off the failed attempts in between I used course (#3) steel wool, which took off the new paint super easily, even after three months. Now I've bead blasted the one phone case with glass bead in a blasting cabinet but the paint fish-eyed horribly, I'm assuming due to solvent I had used to wipe it down the day before getting trapped in the more porous surface after blasting.

#2

Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: NEED HELP! Painting metal ...

Last post by TelePlay - Today at 05:33:26 PM

Have you taken the surface to 400 grit to give the paint something to adhere too?

If too smooth, paint won't adhere well.

#3

Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: NEED HELP! Painting metal ...

Last post by turbofirev8 - Today at 05:09:00 PM

I realize it takes time to cure completely and get to full hardness, but shouldn't it at least show signs of adhering to the metal by the time it isn't tacky to the touch anymore? Certainly you shouldn't be able to take the paint down to clean, bare metal with just a fingernail, even after 24 hours. At least that's been my past experience, though granted, painting zinc and even brass is new to me. To be clear, I'm not talking about making a dent in the finish with your nail, I'm talking about taking large swathes of paint clean off by barely dragging your nail across it after it's already well dry enough to handle.

I should mention too that when I painted everything initially, it set for around two months before I ever even touched it, then I probably spent another month assembling things, working on it off and on, before I ever noticed the issue. Paint will harden over time sure, but it won't suddenly adhere to the surface. Or am I getting this all wrong. Is what you're all trying to tell me is it won't adhere no matter what I do and will always be susceptible to easy chipping? Is all you are trying to do is create a hard shell of paint over top of the metal with no real adhesion between the two?

Oh, and by the way, those are some beautiful phones RDPipes.

#4

Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: NEED HELP! Painting metal ...

Last post by TelePlay - Today at 04:01:37 PM

. . . I've found no matter what rattle can paint you use 24 hours isn't long enough time for it to completely cure even using a oven because it's still remains a bit rubbery . . .

That is true, feels tacky and leaves finger prints. That's why I put a coat of Renaissance Wax on the baked paint. Changes from "tacky" to the touch to a smooth to the touch finish.

BTW, I remember Christian found that a baked lacquer on finger wheels, regardless of the metal, yielded a harder finish less susceptible to chipping over time. But he found enamel was better on all other parts, can't remember why.

I used to get Rustoleum gloss black automotive and matching grey primer at Walmart. Their website today shows they sell acrylic gloss black in lacquer and enamel.

What I found when baking is that gloss enamel remains glossy into the low 200s temperature. When heating to 300, the gloss would become a bit semi-gloss which I liked because it looked more like the original factory paint, not real shiny, more assembly line.

=====

Found the lacquer topic posted in 2016. Includes additional information on paints which support my decision to bake gloss paint to 300, the reduction in gloss makes the phone look more like the original pre-1950 japan black finish.


https://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=15844.msg164428#msg164428

#5

General Discussion / Re: AT&T slimline 210

Last post by Contempra - Today at 01:23:23 PM

I still use a "land-line".  I don't see how you can collect classic phones and not be able to test and use them.

Mike

I agree if you have some old classic phones,  you need a land-line . Right now i use my cell phones, but my land-line is always used everyday .

#6

Telephone Troubleshooting and Repair / Re: Stromberg Carlson wont dia...

Last post by bcarolla - Today at 12:28:34 PM

Where are the dial wires connected? I can't read all the network terminal designations, but it looks like there are no wires connected to the double F terminal.

Red arrows show where the whites and blue go in the second picture. The first picture shows the red going to a jumper style bar. The orange and green from that jumper bar go to the transformer ( orange) and the green goes to C ( third picture). You are correct there are no wires on the two termincals in the F space. I think you can see this in the pictures now

#7

General Discussion / Re: AT&T slimline 210

Last post by poplar1 - Today at 10:02:15 AM

Interesting , still some landline users out there a few slight diff between 210 / 210M . Wonder where they are made now

Checking on eBay, I see Mexico, China, and Taiwan.

#8

Telephone Troubleshooting and Repair / Re: Stromberg Carlson wont dia...

Last post by poplar1 - Today at 09:55:33 AM

Where are the dial wires connected? I can't read all the network terminal designations, but it looks like there are no wires connected to the double F terminal.

#9

Telephone Troubleshooting and Repair / Re: AT&T 2500 key pad intermit...

Last post by poststalker - Today at 08:00:09 AM

Well, it's working again after another strip down and clean. I'll see how long it lasts. Thanks all for your help!

#10

Telephone Restoration Projects and Techniques / Re: NEED HELP! Painting metal ...

Last post by RDPipes - Today at 07:41:14 AM

I've painted quite a few prewar metal (zinc) case phones WE & SC and I've found no matter what rattle can paint you use 24 hours isn't long enough time for it to completely cure even using a oven because it's still remains a bit rubbery after words. It's okay to handle but, if one takes their finger nail and presses on it it'll mark it, it's not 2K automotive paint and it will never be but, you can get good results. Just be patient for the paint to cure and watch your flash times. I've had cases even when oven baking it took close to a mouth before I could rub it out. below are some I've done.