Need a copy of AE circuit diagram D-53688 for SN-4020 AE40 & wiring inquiry

[poplar1]

If the condenser is connected to L1 and 4, and the (or a) ringer is connected to 4 and L2, then you have it wired to ring. The hookswitch contacts are not necessary as they just served to disconnect the ringer when the phone was off-hook.

That said, I don't know the point of all this if you plan to use a Princess or Trendline ringer. By the way, these require only about 0.47 microfarad capacitor. You could bypass all the AE hookswitch and AE condenser and AE ringer and simply connected one M1A ringer lead to L2, one 0.47 capacitor lead to L1, and connect the other ringer lead to the other capacitor lead. You can use any spare terminal (G, 4, 5) or make your own junction with a screw and nut and black tape.

Sometimes, particularly when modifying, it's preferable to understand the purpose of the circuit, than to be slave to a diagram. Sorry I couldn't help.

[RotoTech99]

Dear poplar1:

Believe it or not, you have been A GREAT DEAL OF HELP to me with this inquiry😊;
You got me to think which I am grateful for.

The reason for using the M1A, ITT 151/153, or their equivalent is mainly a "cost measure", plus  I have a number of them on hand...

As to wiring one in, I would go with connecting the ringer to (4) and (L1) as a condenser is already there.  And the "princess style" ITT 151/153 ringers as well as the M1A already have mounts that come very close to being a exact match to the original ringer holes. It makes sense to use the connections already there before making more changes to me.

Outside of that, I would only replace the condenser if the original was defective. Putting it in place of the original condenser would just be a matter of posistioning it  where it fits in, and then connecting it to (L1) and (4).

[RotoTech99]

Dear poplar1:

Also, I prefer to work with spade lugs and terminals exclusively as me and soldering irons do not tend to go very well...

Also, some of the CRPF Forum members have taught me that just about everyone does phone fixing differently, and that a lot of the different methods like using miniature ringers in older sets benefits in both providing a functional ringer that works with the electrical/mechanical aspects of the set, and saves cost as a reasonable option should one or more cause like cost make using the original parts not a option.

[AE_Collector]

Another part of the puzzle would be what your intentions for the phone are. Part of your collection to display or part of your collection and one of the phones you use regularily, a phone you are wanting to work properly so you can sell it etc.

A discussion that comes up from time to time is one about the need to replace a frequency ringer at all. In a phone that is for display and possibly even a phone that will be used, arguably the best way to keep them is as original as possible and frequency ringers are very original in AE sets.

If it has to ring and an outboard extension ringer or the ringer in another phone that is also connected to the same phone line will not suffice, them a replacement AE SL ringer would be acceptable. An M1A ringer in an AE 40 just doesnt sound right to me or at least it doesn't sound preferable to keeping the frequency ringer in place and using the ringer of another phone connected to the line to alert you to an incoming call.

But, it isnt my phone and I know that everyone has different wants and needs. I just like to remind phone collectors that there is nothing "wrong" and nothing "broken" about a frequency ringer. It is part of telephone history.

Terry

[RotoTech99]

Dear AE Collector:

I like to have my phones where they are functional, collectable, and resellable if I choose to.

I keep my frequency,  and "oddball" ringers and parts mainly to display.

I have noted that using a different ringer like a miniature ringer in this case benefits in providing a workable ringer, but is also a way to save cost if the original is unavailable because of cost, or another reason.

in most instances, the miniature ringer will work within the  specification range of the original condenser or fit the mounting points with little or no need to modify the area it is to mount in.

[RotoTech99]

Dear Forum:

I have now got the miniature ringer installed in my AE40, Here is how I did it:

1. Took my miniature ringer and aligned it over the ringer mountings, then fastened
it in place with machine screws and nuts. It now sits at an angle with the
gong facing front, just behind the fronth housing screw, and to the right slightly.

(I was able to make slight adjustments to the ringer position to help it clear any
obstruction, and not interfere with another component.

2. I wired the ringer to L-2 and 4, with the ring condenser leads on L-1 and 4;
Terminal 5 holds the wire from L-2 that went to the original ringer*

*This lead was soldered on at L-2. (It is stored at 5, and since 5 has no other
connections and is essentially a empty position, it makes a good spot t
o store the unused lead from L-2.)