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Restoring my eBay purchase into a functional AE 3 slot Pay Phone

Started by DavePEI, June 01, 2016, 10:29:09 PM

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shortrackskater

#15
Those picture were perfect! Thank you.
Attached is a photo of my wiring, along with some dental floss!

Now, where do the wires for the auxiliary terminal assembly go? I cant' see it on the wiring diagram. I might be looking right at it but it's not registering. :(
Last (I think): Jim You sent me two small resisters. Do those go in parallel where the yellow jumper and Dial Black/NC Black wires are? I'd guessing they do.
Mark J.

Stan S

Mark
Only one resistor is used. I put 2 in the box just in case.
Follow the pictures and rebuild the contact assembly then reinstall it.

The blue wire soldered to the blade connects to L1 (the top screw) on the bakelite strip.
I hope the wire is long enough.
Use the diagram for the LPB82-55. Don't look at the one for the LPB82.
Have fun!
Stan S.

shortrackskater

Thanks Stan. I said Jim on those resisters... sorry about that!
I'll get to this tomorrow afternoon and post back my results.
Mark J.

shortrackskater

#18
Okay the contact assembly is done. I faced the screw tabs toward the outside though. It fit better that way since they seemed close to the bakelite strip. I used the gray wire though... I just noticed that.
The wire is plenty long... it's about two inches too long. I'll just wrap it neatly.
Resister is in. What's it for?
The line cord was already in this phone. It's connected to L1, G, and L2. It did work just as an extension phone but didn't dial out of course.
Is this phone ready to plug in?

UPDATE: I plugged it in but it still won't dial out.
Mark J.

Stan S

Mark
The screw tabs are now being used to keep the total length of the stacked parts equal to the insulating tubes that are over the mounting screws. If you had a belt sander the tubes could be sanded down to the length without those tabs. Assuming you don't have a belt sander, this is the easiest way to do it.

The 47 ohm resistor is across the coin microphone. It shunts the audio output of the mic. so your eardrums survive the deposit of a quarter.

I just noticed the blue jumper between the top screw terminal (L1) on the bakelite strip and the one below it (G). You better take it off. I have absolutely no idea why it's there.

Connect the phone line between the top screw (L1) and third screw down (L2) on the bakelite strip. Push the coin trigger (orange plastic part in the hopper) down to simulate the deposit of a coin. Make sure that the spring wire of the nickel counting assembly isn't in the slot of the arm (see the first page Fig.3) of the Technical Manual.

With a little luck and assuming nothing else in the phone has been played with, the phone should work. That's also assuming there's nothing wrong with the dial and your phone company supports rotary dialing. We can only hope!
Good luck!
Stan S.

shortrackskater

Mark J.

shortrackskater

#21
Still no dial ability.
I'm wondering: should I gently pull out those contact tabs on the bakelite terminal? The bottom one is out a bit farther than the rest. Should I use some contact cleaner on them (and the opposite side) or use a pencil eraser?
Also, on the contact part of the upper case (dial) the top contact is bent at an angle. Should it be the same as the rest on that contact strip?
Mark J.

Stan S

Mark
The contact in the top is fine. It should have a slightly different shape. The fingers on the strip should be bent out just a little so they make contact with the points of the contacts in the top.

I have a feeling that your dial has a problem. Since it originally didn't dial, maybe the dial should have been looked at first. Do you think it is returning at the proper speed after you dial a 9 or a zero or is it returning slowly. It's possible that's the problem.
Stan S.

shortrackskater

No it seems to dial like it's new... no slowness that I can tell.
Mark J.

Stan S

Mark
Warm up your ohm meter. We'll take a few measurements tomorrow. I want to make sure that the pulsing contacts of the dial aren't being shorted by the coin relay or the nickel counter. A normal function of both of these assemblies is to prevent dialing until the initial deposit of 10 cents is made. If we find that isn't the problem we'll check the dial itself.

If you're curious how the coin mechanism works in an LPB82-55, below is a copy of a posting I made a while back when I was helping another member named Stan get his working.


QuoteThere are two sets of switch contacts in the payphone in parallel with the pulsing contacts of the dial. The first set of switch contacts is the microswitch on the nickel counter. The second set of switch contacts is located on the coin relay. When either of these sets of contacts are shorted the dial is useless.

Both the coil of the coin relay and the coil of the reset electromagnet of the nickel counter have voltage applied to them at the same time by the collect or refund voltage sent down the phone line and ground by the Telephone Central Office.

When the payphone is sitting idle with the handset hung-up, the microswitch contacts of the nickel counter are in the OPEN position. However, the switch contacts on the coin relay are closed. Which makes it impossible for the dial to work.

Mr. George Gray comes along and wants to make a call. He lifts the handset of the payphone and gets a dial tone. (All prepay AEs gave a dial tone when the handset was lifted.)

If George tries to use the dial it won't break dial tone because the pulsing contacts are shorted by the coin relay.

George deposits the first nickel. The nickel travels down the coin track hitting the spring wire of the nickel counter. The position of the microswitch on the nickel counter changes- the contacts are now shorted.

The nickel continues down the coin track and falls into the hopper, hitting the coin vane. The coin vane is the activator for the switch contacts on the coin relay. The set of contacts on the coin relay that were shorted originally now are an open circuit. However, since the contacts on the microswitch are shorted the dial pulsing contacts are still disabled. Turn the dial and it still will not break dial tone.

George now deposits the second nickel. It travels down the coin track and hits the spring wire on the microswitch. The position of the spring wire changes again and OPENS the microswitch contacts  The second nickel continues down the coin track and falls into the hopper. Since the coin vane of the coin relay has already been triggered (in the down position) the second nickel has no affect on it. We now have two nickels sitting in the hopper with both sets of switch contacts (microswitch and coin relay) in the open position. George now turns the dial which breaks dial tone. George can now make is call. He's probably calling some company in Hartford Connecticut.

When George's call is finished he hangs up. The central office sends a collect or return voltage between the phone line and ground that triggers BOTH THE COIN RELAY AND THE RESET ELECTROMAGNET OF THE NICKEL COUNTER putting them in their reset positions. Both the nickel counter and the coin relay are now ready to handle the next call.

Let's assume poor George Gray puts in the first nickel and for whatever reason decides he doesn't want to complete the call. When he hangs up the Central Office will send a return voltage down the phone line. George will get back his nickel and both the coin relay and the nickel counter will be reset.

Remember, the payphone sitting idle has BOTH sets of switch contacts in the OPEN position. If nothing travels down the nickel slide of the coin track George Gray can make his call by depositing a quarter or a dime.



   

shortrackskater

#25
Could my line plug be bad? It doesn't lock in but I held it in, got dial tone and it would not dial out. I'll probably need to replace it.
The ohm meter is warmed up and ready... I'll be home until about 630 PST. Home tomorrow after 4PM.
Is L1, G, L2 correct for the cord?
Mark J.

shortrackskater

I plugged the phone back in, deposited money and got the dial to work! A call to Stan helped me to  understand what was going on. 
So now it looks like I have a working phone.  :)
I'm installing a new line cord though since the clip on the old one is broken.
Do I need three wires - to G, L2 and L1 ? I want to make sure it will work as a payphone when I get my controller.
Thanks Stan S, Jim, Dave PEI and everyone else who chimed in.
Mark J.

Stan S

Mark
Don't worry about the modular cord at this point. Whatever you use will be fine for the payphone to work without coin control.
If you end up with one of my controllers it is supplied with a modular cable for the payphone that is built to match the controller.
Enjoy the payphone.
Stan S.

shortrackskater

I removed that white wire from the switch and tied the relay. I have a dial tone but it wouldn't dial out.
I untied the coin relay and replaced the white wire and now it dials out, but the coins are just sitting in the "checkpoint" area...
I know I need to wire the relay back up but not sure what I did wrong there.
Mark J.

Stan S

Mark
Was the coin trigger (orange plastic piece) in the down position when you tried to dial?
Stan S.