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Restoring a WECo white 500U

Started by cihensley@aol.com, January 15, 2011, 04:38:03 PM

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cihensley@aol.com

I am in the middle of restoring a Western Electric 1958 white 500U. The set was badly discolored. The first photo shows the set sanded on one side with 240 grit sandpaper. I always start with the coarsest grit that will remove the discoloration in a reasonable time. Usually 360 grit is sufficient, but the heavy discoloration required the 240. No matter what grit I start with, I sand until all discoloration is removed. Any remaining discoloration is harder to remove otherwise as you proceed to finer grits. The second photo shows the shell as sanded with 240, 320, 360 and 400 grit, compared with the dial bezel which I have not sanded and a WECo white 1554 I purchased from Vern Potter. It is a future restoration project. The third photo is another shot of the sanded shell.

The fourth photo shows the embossing on the shell and handset. I restored these using an oscillating tool I described in an earlier post. Some softening of the sharpness but the relief of the embossing is clear. Next steps: micro mesh sanding and then polishing.

Chuck

Dennis Markham

Chuck, it looks very good.  I'm sure you took some "before" photos.  I look forward to seeing the finished product.

HarrySmith

Nice work Chuck! Looks great! Wouldnt the switch make it a P/U? Have you tried retrobrite? I have used it on White phones with excellent results without all the work of sanding.
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

paul-f

Visit: paul-f.com         WE  500  Design_Line

.

Adam

Adam Forrest
Los Angeles Telephone - A proud part of the global C*Net System
C*Net 1-383-4820


HarrySmith

OK, the link you sent me to on your site shows the same stamp on the bottom as mine pictured below. P/U above the 500 stamp. Same as a C/D 500, is that considered a D? I am not trying to be a pain just trying to understand the stamp on the bottom. I have heard and seen them referred to as P/U and the early ones without the switch as a P. BTW first time I have seen one in white, very nice, please post pics when it is complete.
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

paul-f

The issue is understanding the difference between a bottom stamping and a model number. 

In this case the bottom stamping 500 P/U is used to indicate a bottom plate subassembly that is common to the model numbers 500P and 500U.

This let WE produce undifferentiated subassemblied that would take on their identity in final assembly, saving manufacturing and inventory costs.  It's also used in some documents including BSPs to save space.

The 500P does not have the night light switch that the 500U has.  therefore the 500U gets the switch and a different housing with a hole to accommodate the switch.

The same logic applies to all other sets with bottom stampings that include letters in the format a/b.

Most sets use the "a" to indicate a manual set and "b" for a dial set.  (e.g. 500C is manual and 500D is dial.)  The a model (e.g. 500C) gets an apparatus blank, while the b model (e.g. 500D) gets a dial.


Visit: paul-f.com         WE  500  Design_Line

.

Dan

Thanks for the clarification. I always thought a P was an older lighted set without the switch. I thought a P/U had a dimmer and was older, while I have never seen a U.
"Imagine how weird telephones would look if our ears weren't so close to our mouths." - Steven Wright

HarrySmith

OK, I think I got it now, thanks Paul.

BTW notice the date of the 500 I posted, I need parts from that date for my birthday phone!
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

cihensley@aol.com

I am continuing to restore this white 500U. I have cleaned the inside except for the corners. The phone must have sat in a damp environment because all for corners have rust. I have tried some naval jelly, but like all of my previous experience with this product it did almost nothing. I could suspend the phone and immerse each corner in evapo-rust overnight (four corners = four nights) but this will remove the paint also and I don't know if it will affect the riveted feet. Any suggestions? I guess I could just leave it alone. The shell will hide it unless the phone is turned over.

I was going to put a new cord on it because the existing one was so discolored. Then I discovered the phone had all matching numbers, so I decided to try and save the cord. I soaked it for two days in a bleach solution, wound the cord on a 3/8 wooden dowel, and burnished it with rubbing compound followed by Novus 2. It came out pretty well. It will show in the pictures I will post after the project is finished.

Chuck

HarrySmith

Why do all the 500's rust in the corners like that? Especially the neoprene ones.
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

Kenny C

I have noticed that too I have 3 with leather feet and not a bit of rust.
In memory of
  Marie B.
1926-2010

Jim Stettler

You live, You learn,
You die, you forget it all.

bingster

Quote from: HarrySmith on January 19, 2011, 05:49:08 PM
Why do all the 500's rust in the corners like that? Especially the neoprene ones.
The consensus is that the outgassing of the plastic feet attacks the paint and steel, causing corrosion.  You'll come across them with new-looking, flawless black paint inside and out, yet the corners will be completely rusted.
= DARRIN =