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Need Someone to Recover Candlestick Cover Plates with Suede

Started by wbos, January 04, 2018, 11:59:41 AM

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RotarDad

I guess this is what they call "skirting the issue".   Great idea, and you won't  run out of material for quite a while!
Paul

mazda_matt

Quote from: WEBellSystemChristian on January 04, 2018, 06:30:45 PM
That's from Old Phone Shop--owned by Mark Treutelaar, here in Southeastern Wisconsin (Franklin, near Milwaukee). A very reputable business as far as I'm concerned--I buy far more from them than I do OldPhoneWorks (no offense Matt, the shipping is cheaper and faster when you live a few miles away ;D ).

www.oldphoneshop.com

Yes, definitely go to Dennis, if he's still recovering suede.

None taken.

We would love to do more business with you, our shipping calculator and be wonky at time. Just shoot me a PM or email me for a better quote on shipping. I would be happy to help.

-MM
oldphoneworks.com
1-800-843-1320

Coupon Code - CRF10 (10% off)

Partyline4

Do you apply an adhesive to the base when recovering it? I have a Western Electric 20AL on the way, and i would also like to recover the base...

TelePlay

Quote from: Partyline4 on January 28, 2018, 08:53:58 PM
Do you apply an adhesive to the base when recovering it? I have a Western Electric 20AL on the way, and i would also like to recover the base...

No, the material is stretched tight and held in place by the inner metal snap ring. I suppose you could glue it but no need to in that the ring hold the material; very well.

TelePlay

The 50AL is round but is the same as this oval D1 base.

The red arrow points to the break in the snap ring which hold the material in place. Keep in mind, if the material is thicker, the snap ring diameter gets small and it may not be able to get the two ends to meet. The ring ends fit tightly together putting force on the base inner ring to hold the material in place and to hold the snap ring in place over time.

In the right image, you can see how well the leather has molded itself to the base due to the retention ring.

You will see what I mean by that once you get yours and work on replacing the material, be it felt, leather or suede.

Partyline4

Quote from: TelePlay on January 28, 2018, 09:25:24 PM
The 50AL is round but is the same as this oval D1 base.

The red arrow points to the break in the snap ring which hold the material in place. Keep in mind, if the material is thicker, the snap ring diameter gets small and it may not be able to get the two ends to meet. The ring ends fit tightly together putting force on the base inner ring to hold the material in place and to hold the snap ring in place over time.

In the right image, you can see how well the leather has molded itself to the base due to the retention ring.

You will see what I mean by that once you get yours and work on replacing the material, be it felt, leather or suede.


Ok, great. How about making the holes in the material? I've heard of using sharpened copper pipe.

Pourme

I picked up one of these from Lowe's I place it on the exact spot I want the hole and tap it with a small hammer. They come in several sizes and I get good results.
Benny

Panasonic 308/616 Magicjack service

TelePlay

Quote from: Partyline4 on January 29, 2018, 09:45:17 AM
Ok, great. How about making the holes in the material? I've heard of using sharpened copper pipe.

Once the material is on, I use a 1.5" piece of brass tubing in a power drill with the end sharpened with a file and then emery cloth to make it a sharp cutting edge. I place the plate with the material against a piece of wood and drill a hole through the screw hole. If using leather or suede, it is quite easy. If using felt, the edge has to be very sharp and drill speed is important not to catch the felt and make a mess. If using felt, try a few test holes on scrap to see what I mean.

Copper tubing could work except the wall thickness makes it more difficult to sharpen. Hardware stores carry foot long pieces of brass and copper and maybe steel tubing in different diameters.

This also works for putting holes in belts if one has over indulged during the holidays.

WEBellSystemChristian

For making the holes in a cloth or felt bottom (not suede or leather), I simply use a paper clip heated with a blow torch or on the stovetop. It very rapidly burns an even hole in the material, and the burned outline prevents fraying that punching a hole in it would do.
Christian Petterson

"Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right" -Henry Ford

Partyline4

Quote from: TelePlay on January 29, 2018, 10:26:49 AM
Once the material is on, I use a 1.5" piece of brass tubing in a power drill with the end sharpened with a file and then emery cloth to make it a sharp cutting edge. I place the plate with the material against a piece of wood and drill a hole through the screw hole. If using leather or suede, it is quite easy. If using felt, the edge has to be very sharp and drill speed is important not to catch the felt and make a mess. If using felt, try a few test holes on scrap to see what I mean.

Copper tubing could work except the wall thickness makes it more difficult to sharpen. Hardware stores carry foot long pieces of brass and copper and maybe steel tubing in different diameters.

This also works for putting holes in belts if one has over indulged during the holidays.


Nice!

I think I will use that tip come Thanksgiving next go round!

Partyline4

Quote from: HarrySmith on January 04, 2018, 01:04:38 PM
There is a seller on eBay, oldphoneshop that sells the material. Sargeguy may know who it is. I think he sells off ebay so you may get a better price that way. Here is a link to an auction:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/200879571029

Picture attached.

Bought a piece today to recover my candlestick....Will see how it does...

JimNY

For those looking for an economical source of suede for covering feet and bases, I stumbled on this site. I purchased a 9 sq/ft piece of pigskin suede for $23 including shipping. The color I chose from the website 'swatches' was much lighter than I anticipated so I spent $8 for dark brown suede dye. After applying the dye and working with a stiff brush the results were pretty good. The supplier states the product as 2oz. in weight which puts it in the ballpark of original spec, bonus is that its easy to work with.  Hoping someone finds this info useful.

https://www.avetcoinc.com/product/premium-garment-pig-suedes-2-oz/