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WESTERN ELECTRIC MODEL 500 RINGER BOX WITH Kellogg F118 Candlestick

Started by 1TIMESONE1, February 14, 2012, 02:53:09 AM

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wds

Here's a wiring suggestion.  First, your candlestick is missing the terminal strip in the bottom.  I can still see the screws in your picture where the strip would have been.  So, you can either buy another kellogg c/s for the missing parts, or just improvise something.  You can find beat up kellogg's on ebay for pretty cheap that you can use for parts.  See attached picture to see a couple examples of Kellogg teminal strips.  Next, use the attached schematic for the proper wiring.  This diagram came straight off the TCI website, so if your having trouble reading this copy, you can go straight to the source for a better picture.

http://tinyurl.com/7u7m6tn

As far as attaching the c/s to that subset, ignore the right half of the diagram, and attach the red wire to R on the network of your ringer/box/dialer/frankenbox, green wire to GN and the yellow wire to B.  (First and foremost, get rid of the solenoid!!)  See the previous post for the drawing of the network.  If the dial is wired correctly, everything should work.

If you decide to use your phone as is, be sure you build your rack with at least 3 shelves, one for the c/s, one for the frankenbox, and the 3rd shelf for the 12 volt car battery to make it work!

All kidding aside, hope this helps.
Dave

wds

Oops, sorry but I forgot - you'll need a 4th shelf for the trickle charger to keep the 12 volt car battery charged up, to operate the solenoid. 
Dave

dpaynter1066

You might be a Redneck if you think Taco Bell is a Mexican telephone company.




dsk

Of course it would be nice if you could get some money back.
I would not rate  the seller very high at eBay.

The first should be to be able to test the phone, at least to answer  an incoming call.
Try too wire:   Line(tip)-----------Receiver---------Transmitter----------Hookswitch---------Line(ring)
Now you should get dialtone when you are lifting the receiver, and hear youselves speaking.
When you get incoming calls (ringing heard from another telephone on the line) You should be able to answer.
This is not a permanent and good way to do it, but a start to keep the smile :D

The next will be to wire it to a subset using those 2 wires going to the line, and a third one hooked on the connection between the receiver and transmitter. (We do that later when you have got this first step OK. OK?

dsk


1TIMESONE1

Quote from: wds on February 15, 2012, 09:22:12 AM
Here's a wiring suggestion.  First, your candlestick is missing the terminal strip in the bottom.  I can still see the screws in your picture where the strip would have been.  So, you can either buy another kellogg c/s for the missing parts, or just improvise something.  You can find beat up kellogg's on ebay for pretty cheap that you can use for parts.  See attached picture to see a couple examples of Kellogg teminal strips.  Next, use the attached schematic for the proper wiring.  This diagram came straight off the TCI website, so if your having trouble reading this copy, you can go straight to the source for a better picture.

http://tinyurl.com/7u7m6tn

As far as attaching the c/s to that subset, ignore the right half of the diagram, and attach the red wire to R on the network of your ringer/box/dialer/frankenbox, green wire to GN and the yellow wire to B.  (First and foremost, get rid of the solenoid!!)  See the previous post for the drawing of the network.  If the dial is wired correctly, everything should work.

If you decide to use your phone as is, be sure you build your rack with at least 3 shelves, one for the c/s, one for the frankenbox, and the 3rd shelf for the 12 volt car battery to make it work!

All kidding aside, hope this helps.


I am going to follow your suggestions, but I just want to verify what you are saying...  the diagram from TCI shows terminal 1 (GN) green, terminal 2 (D) as red, and terminal 4 as (L) yellow.

My 425E shows terminal 2 as (B) not (D) and terminal 4 as (R) not (L)

wds

I just noticed your network is a 425E, and I posted a diagram for the 425B.  You should be able to switch to the appropriate terminals on the 425E, but I'm not a 500 collector, so someone else will have to chime in now.
Dave

1TIMESONE1

Quote from: wds on February 16, 2012, 09:25:39 AM
I just noticed your network is a 425E, and I posted a diagram for the 425B.  You should be able to switch to the appropriate terminals on the 425E, but I'm not a 500 collector, so someone else will have to chime in now.
Ok, glad I read the drawing, anyway does that coil which the alligator clips acitvate run on 6 volts also?  And cant I just get an AC adapter for either 12 or 6volts, like an answering mackine power supply?  I also found the following...in 1963 •Shifted from 425B network to 425E network. Apparently the only difference between these networks is a screw-on "C" terminal instead of a soldered one.... think your suggestion will still work?