Just bought this the other day. A 233G payphone. Actually says 233GXLA inside. This my 1st payphone so as glad as I am to get it. I am just ignorant about payphones. The fellow I bought it from says internals are complete it is missing the receiver cradle and coin box and a lock. I have added some photos. The nearest date I could find was inside. One of the parts says 1967. I would appreciate any help or thoughts on restoring it. I know it needs a subset to ring but not much more. Got it for $85 on Facebook.
< edit 07-18-21: images removed, rotated, reattached >
Not sure why photos are sideways.
Cool Phone. I th ink it was a really nice price.
Put it in the July 2021 find of the Month find of the month
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?board=19.0
JMO,
Jim
When holding your phone to take pictures hold the phone horizontally, then when you post they come out right.
Nice phone good price, enjoy it.
Thanks to whoever righted my photos. As I mentioned this is my 1st Payphone. I have so many questions with regard to restoring. I want to clean this thing inside and out. Not sure if I should attempt taking it apart. Should I get it working first and then worry about cleaning it up? Obviously the first thing I need to get is a Hook or cradle for the Handset. I have a feeling I'm going to need a new one of those or the guts of one. Handset is extremely light. I haven't opened it yet. The mouth and earpiece are kind of stuck. From what I've read it appears I can cannibalize a 500 or 554 phone to create the subset. I have ITT and SC wall phone equivalent. I'm assuming one of those will suffice. While I don't require it to actually function the way it originally did, I do want to keep the coin mechanism to at least keep it as authentic as possible.
I know I need a lock to keep the upper housing secure. I can't figure out what the other lock, that it does have was for. As you can see it has dents and missing paint and some rust. I probably could repaint it but I think I want to keep it as is. I have attached a few more photos. if they help.
Oh ANother question. Do those numbers on the outside of the Coin Vault mean anything?
It will need a subset before you can get it working.
But I would clean it up first, being careful of the hook switch pileup. But your going t need a handset hanger/ you have the hook switch.
Have you looked in the payphone section here?
There is a lot of posts regarding wiring and etc to help you along. And the resident expert would be payphoneinstaller, there are several here but he's got parts and knowledge to get you to the finish line.
Jim is his name, shot him a pm he might help you with your questions.
EBay has locks, but check around here first as you will want the correct type.
Quote from: captroosh on July 19, 2021, 03:15:23 PM
Oh ANother question. Do those numbers on the outside of the Coin Vault mean anything?
Each vault has a unique number used by the collection department to know which phone/location into which it was placed (empty) and how much was collected from the phone/location when returned. An accounting cost/benefit thing.
That is also why each vault had its own unique key unlike the upper housing which used one key for many housing locks.
Quote from: TelePlay on July 19, 2021, 08:10:10 PM
Each vault has a unique number used by the collection department to know which phone/location into which it was placed (empty) and how much was collected from the phone/location when returned. An accounting cost/benefit thing.
That is also why each vault had its own unique key unlike the upper housing which used one key for many housing locks.
Ah! Thanks for the information. I love learning this stuff.
Don't try to take the handset apart, because you can't, the transmitter and receiver caps are glued on. Test the handset to make sure the elements are OK. I wonder what all the letters after 233G indicate?
Quote from: HowardPgh on July 20, 2021, 02:30:26 PM
Don't try to take the handset apart, because you can't, the transmitter and receiver caps are glued on. Test the handset to make sure the elements are OK. I wonder what all the letters after 233G indicate?
I wondered the same thing myself about the lettering. I will give the handset a test. But it feels really light. Says western Electric on it.
I was shopping for, among other things, a coin box. I came upon this one on Ebay for $15. Claims to be NOS but looks more like new new stock. Doesn't look very heavy duty. You get what you pay for I guess. It probably makes no difference as it won't really be used as a Pay phone. I imagine I could go with a front cover only, for that matter, as no one will see it. Any thoughts on this are welcome.
There are two different WE coin boxes. The image posted looks like the taller type used with newer pay phones. The older rotary pay phones used shorter in height coin boxes.
There are topics on the forum about this. One way to quickly determine the difference is from the front, the newer boxes have equally high protrusions, for lack of a better word, on each side of the pull out loop. The old style that would fit yours have one protrusion shorter than the other.
Also, new style boxes are cheap ($10 to $15 each), old style if you can find one on eBay will be 4 or 5 times higher in price, $50 to $75 based on condition.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Payphone-3-slot-pay-phone-coin-box-and-lid-Western-Electric-Northern-Electric-/202675076576
Well as Howard said the caps are glued, if it's an original, if someone changed it then you might be able to get the caps off. If it's tight try a strap wrench if you have one. Or run hot water over the edges to help get it loose.
And three slots use the short coin box, not the tall.
The tall ones are for single slot sets only.
Quote from: Key2871 on July 20, 2021, 04:42:18 PM
And three slots use the short coin box, not the tall.
The tall ones are for single slot sets only.
Thank you for the cut off between older (3 slot) and newer (single slot) pay phones, as I tried to say with "newer" and "older" styles when I wrote " There are two different WE coin boxes. The image posted looks like the taller type used with newer pay phones. The older rotary pay phones used shorter in height coin boxes." So, it's single vs 3 slot phones for "taller" vs "shorter" coin boxes.
3 slot boxes are hard to find and expensive. The link in my last post shows a refurbished 3 slot box with lid, if someone could attach its image for comparison would be helpful.
Side by side image attached showing single slot payphone coin box to left, and three slot payphone coin box (from link above) to right.
I see them on eBay and thryxarent that expensive.
Some payphone collectors suggest not using a coin box or at least not use the top.
This saves aggravation if the top cover gets stuck on removal.
The box can be very hard to remove if this happens.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The other common suggested point : change all your top locks to a 29-S (AE)
The cut of a 29-S is a lot less likely to break vs many other key #'s.
Also the 29-S is a very popular lock and it is relatively easy to locate the lock and good original keys and decent repro keys.
Jim S.
Yea I agree with that. I've had covers get stuck and it's not fun trying to get them free.
There is no obvious reason to use them anyway.
Good point, Jim
Covers don't get stuck unless you did not reset the trigger when box is installed. But the box is a bad idea period as if you loose the key it screws with trying to access the vault in the future. I sell plastic doors so if you lose the key you just break it with a hammer. Your phone is missing a hook I have it if you need it. You have found a great original piece. It will work as it is with the correct subset and wiring. It will not return and collect money without a payphone controller. Top lock is hard to find, 29s is easier then most to get. I have those to. Jim
Not to contradict what you said Jim, but I had an NE that got stuck a couple times early on in owning it.
I had to do some filing on the track to help eliminate the issue. It got buggered up somehow and the leaver got hung up at times
And I've seen your vault doors for plastic they look great, What a great idea. Good solution if someone looses the keys.
Quote from: Payphone installer on July 20, 2021, 09:39:07 PM
Covers don't get stuck unless you did not reset the trigger when box is installed. But the box is a bad idea period as if you loose the key it screws with trying to access the vault in the future. I sell plastic doors so if you lose the key you just break it with a hammer. Your phone is missing a hook I have it if you need it. You have found a great original piece. It will work as it is with the correct subset and wiring. It will not return and collect money without a payphone controller. Top lock is hard to find, 29s is easier then most to get. I have those to. Jim
Jim, Thank you, and everyone else for the Intel. I have decided to forgo the coinbox for all the reasons stated here. I am cannibalizing an ITT 554 from what I'm told its the same guts as a 500 which I've read would make up the subset. I want it to function as a phone but don't need the coin op to work. I do definitely need the hook and locks and door. I would be grateful if you would PM some prices, or post here, whatever works for you. I am curious to know something though. There is one lock on it, I think its called a barrel lock. It doesn't look like it locks anything. That's good because I don't have a key. What purpose did it serve?
One other question. This looks like it has collected a lot of dirt. I really would like to clean the insides up. Any Tips? Should I disassemble it? I don't want to break anything. Thanks again for all your help. John
I've just used mild soap and water, rinse and let dry.
A little compressed air helps get stuff out of small spaces. Use of a small brush tooth brush is good for getting stuff loose.
Just be careful around the switches not to bend any thing out of adjustment.
Quote from: Key2871 on July 21, 2021, 04:21:32 PM
I've just used mild soap and water, rinse and let dry.
A little compressed air helps get stuff out of small spaces. Use of a small brush tooth brush is good for getting stuff loose.
Just be careful around the switches not to bend any thing out of adjustment.
Sounds like plan. Yeah I didn't want to take it apart. Nothing ever goes back together again without losing or having extra parts. LOL
Think I goofed in the cleaning department on the handset. I had used acetone to remove paint flecks in the past with good results. I tried that on the one on this phone and the black literally came off on the cloth. It was in fairly rough cosmetic shape to start. Usual methods didn't work to well. The finish was dull to begin with but now has best term I can use is rubmarks. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to buff them out if at all possible?
Plenty of info on here :), search Chemical Sanding, this one for ABS:
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=20168
Could you add a photo?
Thanks for the Link. When I get home sometime tonight, I will take a photo and post it.
Believe it or not rubbing alcohol will remove paint specks. Or denatured alcohol will work
But wear gloves, good rubber gloves.
Acetone is way harsh for plastics. Unless your removing fading.
Quote from: captroosh on August 09, 2021, 10:27:37 AM
Think I goofed in the cleaning department on the handset. I had used acetone to remove paint flecks in the past with good results. I tried that on the one on this phone and the black literally came off on the cloth. It was in fairly rough cosmetic shape to start. Usual methods didn't work to well. The finish was dull to begin with but now has best term I can use is rubmarks. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to buff them out if at all possible?
Another way is starting with the 5th paragraph of this topic
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=20531.0
which begins "At that point, I had some really ugly looking plastics on my bench. Next step, using a 400 grit sanding block" to remove the acetone created marks by sanding them off with first 400 grit paper and then working up to 2,000 grit using the method after that point in the topic.
BTW, acetone will take paint spots off of Bakelite without damage. As Key2871 said, alcohol is best on plastics, or Goof-Off/Go-Be-Gone, on a cue tip.
Ok here are the pictures.the lines are kind of fine.
So I just got a hold of the hook for the receiver for this phone. Only thing is in order to attach it permanently it requires a screw I'm betting an Allen head type. Looks like it would be very small. attached is a photo of the hook and where it attaches. Does anyone know what the sije of this set screw is? Is it commonly available through Home depot, or lowes Etc. Or do I have to try and hunt for it. Any help is always appreciated
WE liked odd sizes it might be a 5-40 flathead.if not a 6-32 easy to find
Been a while. I have been gathering missing parts. Many thanks to everyone here especially payphone installer. Only problem I seem to be having is getting dial tone. I went through a number of wiring threads but no luck. First I tried to use the network and bells from a 554. No luck.
I came across a 685A and purchased it. I hooked it up as described here. The difficulty I believe has to do with the hook switch or the dial connections.
I tested the handset it works. The subset rings when I dial but the hook switch doesn't break the connection. I can faintly hear the ringing on the andset as electrical noise. Also the noise will cut out if I move the dial. And return when it moves back. Any thoughts on this would be helpful. Thanks in advance.
I thought I would give further info on How I have this Wired. The attached diagram is from another post on Classic Rotary. http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=24813.msg245807#msg245807 This is how I currently have this connected. The problems are the same The difficulty I believe has to do with the hookswitch or the dial connections.
I tested the handset, it works. The subset rings when I dial but the hookswitch doesn't break the connection. I can faintly hear the ringing on the handset as electrical noise. Also the noise will cut out if I move the dial. And return when it moves back. I guess that could mean the dial is working. Which leads me to believe the hookswitch is the culprit.
Turning the dial slightly with shunt the receiver so you can't hear anything.
The hookswitch doesn't... Open the circuit? As in hang up.
Or it doesn't close as in pick up on the line?
It sounds as though the contacts are not adjusted correctly. Or may be dirty.
With the handset on the hook switch look at the contacts are they open? And when the handset is removed do they close and slightly move the rear part they make with?
If no, or not quite is the answer they need to be adjusted. It's normal when they meet they the contacts to insure a good contact.
To clean the contacts place a clean index or business card between the contacts, moving back and forth with your hand on the hanger to ensure a good tight fit.
Ok here's the thing and it has made troubleshooting almost impossible. I don't have the screw necessary for attaching the receiver hook. Best I can say is that when I work on this the receiver is off the hook. Hopefully I should hear dialtone. WHat happens when I dial the number is that the subset rings as if the receiver is on the hook. As I said earlier I can hear electronic noise very low almost inaudible as the bells ring and that shunt as you said when I turn the dial. I agree with you that the hookswitch may be out of adjustment. As far as those parts I have the internal brass lever that the hook attaches too as well as a spring. I have played with it so it does pivot back and forth. but never any dialtone. Cleaned the lower connection points on the bottom but not up top. I'll check those. Any tips for making Adjustments to the hookswitch. Thanks.
The hookswitch has 2 sets of contacts. You can temporarily use wires to short Y and SL together, also GN to BBX. There is also a jumper wire from BBX to BB; is that present?
I believe it's just a set screw that is needed, so take the hanger with you to a hardware store and find a suitable screw to use. It's not long, but I can't remember what thread it is.
I'm surprised no one has said what the thread is.
4/40 sounds right but I am most likely wrong.
Quote from: poplar1 on October 21, 2021, 03:50:10 PM
The hookswitch has 2 sets of contacts. You can temporarily use wires to short Y and SL together, also GN to BBX. There is also a jumper wire from BBX to BB; is that present?
The jumper is there between bbx and bb. I hope this isn't a dumb question. What will shorting out those connections do?
Quote from: Key2871 on October 21, 2021, 05:06:13 PM
I believe it's just a set screw that is needed, so take the hanger with you to a hardware store and find a suitable screw to use. It's not long, but I can't remember what thread it is.
I'm surprised no one has said what the thread is.
4/40 sounds right but I am most likely wrong.
I went to home Depot. Closest I came screwed in just a couple turns. Yeah I have to find a real hardware store. Don't recall any nearby. Maybe where I work.
Don't go crazy trying to find that screw. Retap the hole 6-32. Use a flat head 6-32 screw. The head of the screw will stick up a little more but just as long as you can get the 'gate operating arm' assembly mounted it will work fine. I've done a few phones that way. With the hookswitch the way it is now both sets of contacts should be connected and you should be getting a dial tone. That's assuming the switch contacts are properly adjusted.
Quote from: captroosh on October 21, 2021, 08:49:02 PM
The jumper is there between bbx and bb. I hope this isn't a dumb question. What will shorting out those connections do?
[/quote author=captroosh link=topic=25390.msg251556#msg251556 date=1634863742]
The jumper is there between bbx and bb. I hope this isn't a dumb question. What will shorting out those connections do?
These are the terminals for the 2 pairs of contacts that make when the phone is off- hook. So even if the hookswitch contacts are not closing properly, you should have dial tone.
Yea after I gave it some thought I remember they had a very strange thread. And now I read Stans post that confirmed it and I remembered I was told to retap the thread to 6-32 because those screws are not available.
But home depot doesn't have a good selection of hardware.
Quote from: poplar1 on October 21, 2021, 09:40:10 PM
These are the terminals for the 2 pairs of contacts that make when the phone is off- hook. So even if the hookswitch contacts are not closing properly, you should have dial tone.
I will give that a shot tomorrow. Long work day today.
Quote from: Key2871 on October 21, 2021, 09:55:24 PM
Yea after I gave it some thought I remember they had a very strange thread. And now I read Stans post that confirmed it and I remembered I was told to retap the thread to 6-32 because those screws are not available.
But home depot doesn't have a good selection of hardware.
Always wanted a Tap and Die kit, Now I have a reason to buy one. LOL
Well yes, and they are expensive if you get a nice set.
If you have a lot of projects that you need a T&D set for, yes. But to tap or die a rod for threads occasionally I would just get a good tap handle and tap for what you need, and store in a dry place, and lightly oil then every year, or they could rust.
Yeah, I saw a small Dewalt set which had the right tap. 17 pieces for $30 That should do me. As long as I don't foul it up. I know you said oil for storage but should I get anything for when I'm making the cuts? I mean it won't exactly be high speed.
Light oil, only if you don't have dry storage.
And even at that it could take a year or so depending on humidity etc.
And use oil when tapping or rethreading bolts or rods.
Take care of the set, it will take care of you.
Quote from: poplar1 on October 21, 2021, 03:50:10 PM
The hookswitch has 2 sets of contacts. You can temporarily use wires to short Y and SL together, also GN to BBX. There is also a jumper wire from BBX to BB; is that present?
So I finally tried this with negative results. I used my meter after I connected everything and I was getting continuity on each wire. Still no dial tone. Here are some photos I took of the hook switch and subset.
See attached below.
Above photo is for an off-hook condition.
Thanks for the photo Stan. SO here's the latest. I did tap the Phone Cradle and got the set screw 6-32 to fasten it to the latch. I think I have the metal fins lined up correctly but I have to work a little more on it. It was getting late and I was fading. Here is an odd thing though. I tried connecting the 2 wires to short the connection to no avail. But as I was doing this I accidentally shorted GN and Y on it's own and I got very faint dial-tone. I went through all my connections a again they all looked right. But then again it was late. So I have to revisit this when I get some time this week. When I removed the wire I replaced the Upper housing and locked it. I was pack to hearing the interference noise on the handset. However when I shunted with the dial this time the ringing stopped on the subset. It was at this point I went to bed. I have to play some more. Thanks for the help, everyone.
Further update. worked on this a bit more yesterday, I pushed the 4 lower fins together ON the bottom and got a dial tone. I could not accomplish this with the upper housing on the lower hosing and locked in place. I decided to separate the housings and I connected them both with test leads. When I pushed them together I got the dial tone. When I turned the dial the the tone got louder and as the it was rotating and on it's way back I could here the pulse. However the dial tone did not cease after the dial returned, it only dropped in volume again. Perhaps the dial wires are not set up correctly. The upper housing wiring is in the attached picture. I disconnected the coin microphone and also the coin relay in the lower housing.
You are making headway, and I agree I think your dial is miswired. But check recheck and you will find your problems. I used gator clipped jumpers so I wouldn't have to keep putting the upper on locking it etc.
Much eaiser to trouble shoot.
What happened to the red dial wire?
The red wire is looping behind the connection board, and then going up to the dial I presume. There is also a black wire that is not visible at this angle connected to BKX.
The red dial wire should be connected to the 'R' screw along with your jumper.
The red wire is connected to the R terminal in the upper housing. I mean I think that's a red wire. I'm a little color blind so I might not be sure. You say the BKX should have a jumper to to the R terminal. Should I reconnect the the Coin Microphone or signal transmitter on this schematic as it looks interconnected with both terminals. http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=14500.0;attach=124177;image Also attached.
Your jumper electrically takes the place of the electromagnet and the coin mics that are in series. The very colorful diagram you worked from is wrong. It should have included that jumper. Make sure the red dial wire is connected to the 'R' screw along with one side of your jumper. I still only see your jumper in the picture.
Is the red wire on R a jumper? Or the red lead from the dial?
The red lead is not a jumper. It loops behind the connector into the Upper housing. I am assuming from the Dial.
Quote from: poplar1 on October 28, 2021, 12:30:58 PM
Is the red wire on R a jumper? Or the red lead from the dial?
If there is no jumper between 'R' and 'BKX' put one on.
Will do thanks!
Ok added that jumper and got the dial tone. I was even able to make a call. The only problem is that the circuit is always open. I can't disconnect the call. When I hang up the receiver 📞 I can hear the line go off but it's really just muting it. I connected alligator leads so it thinks the upper housing is attached. The only thing I can think is the hook switch is still slightly connected. So close now.
I'm assuming you have an ohm meter. Disconnect the wiring going to GN, BBX, Y and SL. With the handset on hook check that there is no connection between GN and BBX. Do the same thing with Y and SL. There should be no connection at these contacts with the handset hung up.
There actually were no wires on SL Or BBX. Previously the coin relay was connected there. No connection between bbx and gn. However there is a connection between y and sl.
That's the reason the phone isn't hanging up. Those contacts have to be open (no connection) between Y and SL when the handset is on hook. Make sure the two switch hook mounting screws are very tight. Eyeball the switch contacts from the right side. If the contacts are connected when the handset is on hook slightly bend the end of the arm that pushes the contacts. Or if necessary very carefully bend the contacts. Best way is to bend the arm. Be very careful bending the contacts. Good luck!
I will give it a shot tomorrow. Thanks again.
If you won't be using coin control you might try connecting the wires that would normally go on SL and Y to BBX and GN. That way you won't have to mess around bending switchhook contacts.
You can buy a subset. No need to destroy another phone to create one.
Mike
Quote from: captroosh on October 30, 2021, 09:24:00 PM
There actually were no wires on SL Or BBX. Previously the coin relay was connected there. No connection between bbx and gn. However there is a connection between y and sl.
No wire on BBX?. There is supposed to be a jumper from BBX to BB
Actually there is a jumper from bb to bbx I confused it with bkx. I will have to check it out again with bbx .
Quote from: Stan S on October 30, 2021, 11:19:58 PM
If you won't be using coin control you might try connecting the wires that would normally go on SL and Y to BBX and GN. That way you won't have to mess around bending switchhook contacts.
Sorry I have been confusing myself and no doubt you too. Ok so you are talking lower housing. When you say move the wires from SL and Y to BBX and GN. SL (Hookswitch)only had a wire from the coin relay which I removed. The wires on Y (Hookswitch)are basically the RING wire from the local line and also connected to the Subset 485A on the L2 terminal. So if I follow you , I should connect the from the wire from the Coin Relay that was on SL and connect it to BBX and the wires on Y should be move to GN. Am I understanding you correctly?
Quote from: MMikeJBenN27 on October 31, 2021, 04:00:45 AM
You can buy a subset. No need to destroy another phone to create one.
@Mike. Thank you. I was fortunate to find a subset. :)
Ok. First thing I did was test BBX without the wire and with cradle in down position, no connection between it and GN. Then I played with the setup last night based on yje wiring suggestions. I was able to connect and disconnect the. I tried putting the SL coin wire, and the Lines I had on Y to BBX and GN. The result was I was able to hang up the line. However dialtone was very low and I Could not dial out.
I did tighten the bolt on the Hookswitch latch with no effect. I was able to bend the terminals slightly for Y and SL but no change in operation. I tried the screws on the hookswitch but I was unable to tighten or loosen either one. I was thinking of trying a little penetrating oil but I'm doubtful of that. I'm off work in the daytime for election day so I am going to work a bit on it today.
Finally I can report I have got it working. Only thing left to do is to attach the front instruction plate. I'm guessing I'm going to have to remove the coin mechanism to get at the nuts.
Good News!!! You hung in there with great support...Doug
Quote from: Doug Rose on November 02, 2021, 05:14:14 PM
Good News!!! You hung in there with great support...Doug
Yes Doug I hung in there. And I would be remiss if I didn't thank everyone who helped me because I never would have figured it out on my own. So a big Thank you, in no particular order to Stan. S, Key 2871, Jim Settler, Teleplay, Payphone Installer, FABPhones, ND Poplar1 I'm sorry if I missed anyone. It was an extraordinary group effort by an extraordinary group. Once I get that plate on I will post new pictures.
Glad you figured it out and got it working.
You learn something new everyday.. And that's a valuable experience.
Quote from: Key2871 on November 02, 2021, 10:49:32 PM
Glad you figured it out and got it working.
You learn something new everyday.. And that's a valuable experience.
Valuable indeed. I was thinking that last night. I knew virtually nothing about these phones when I acquired it. It has been an education and a pleasure learning. Best way to learn for me is by doing. ANd nothing like that Ah ha moment when you put it together.
I hate to be a pain. I cannot figure out how to remove the coin chute mechanism temporarily, to get at the Nuts for the front instruction plate. I was looking it up on TCL. One set of instructions said to remove 3 number 4 Hex Screws or 4 number 3's I can't remember exactly. I only found 2 large screws that allowed me to lift it up some. However not enough to access the nuts. There are 2 posts in the top of the upper housing that the mechanism moves along when the Coin release button is pressed. It would seem I would have to free from these but again I am lost. The only other option I can think of is to attach it with Krazy glue or JB Weld to the front. I'd rather not do that.
Loosen (counter-clockwise) the 2 screws that are spring loaded (for coin release). Then there is a large slotted screw holding the lower part of the coin chute assembly.
You need to push down on the two spring loaded screws (posts) while turning them enough that they release. Careful, the springs may jump off the table.
EDIT: Forgot about the other part (circled in yellow). I think that one also needs to be removed.
Quote from: poplar1 on November 08, 2021, 09:19:10 PM
You need to push down on the two spring loaded screws (posts) while turning them enough that they release. Careful, the springs may jump off the table.
EDIT: Forgot about the other part (circled in yellow). I think that one also needs to be removed.
Definitely, the one in yellow. It was the 2 spring ones I couldn't figure out. I'm assuming turn to the left. With some of these things you never know. LOL Thank you very much for the assistance. Learning on this every day.
I learned about those 2 screws by breaking them. At least you were smarter than I was and asked first!
Quote from: HarrySmith on November 09, 2021, 11:09:23 AM
I learned about those 2 screws by breaking them. At least you were smarter than I was and asked first!
I learned to ask first, because of all the stuff I have broken over the years with out asking. LOL But then again that was before the knowledge base that is the internet. Generally there is always someone who has faced something before I have. That's why I love this group. So much knowledge and so many people willing to help.
Well I managed to remove the coin mechanism per the instructions here. Alas I was not able to attach the plate because the holes don't line up correctly. I will probably sell this on eBay now, or throw it in a drawer. I bought it from Phoneco $25 plus shipping. They indicated NOS i don't think the protective Glass is original. It's plastic and not cut perfectly Square. The card is purported to be real but I have no idea. If anyone wants it I sell it for $15 plus shipping to anyone here. Otherwise it will go on eBay or Facebook Marketplace. Thanks again for the info.
You might try inverting the mount .The card might be upside down . The card is not old and is not based on a real design. These frames had plastic windows and not glass
I tried using the top 2 holes first. It didn't line up correctly. Then I tried turning it upside down using the center pair but the holes on the plate were too small for the screws. I really had a difficult time last night as it was late. I'm going to try again today. Only thing I can think to do if the center holes line up right, is to drill them out a little to accommodate the larger screws.
The center holes in the plate aren't too small. The screws go in from the inside then into the plate. Not the other way around. The holes in the plate are tapped for short 4-40 screws.
Quote from: Stan S on November 10, 2021, 10:46:46 AM
The center holes in the plate aren't too small. The screws go in from the inside then into the plate. Not the other way around. The holes in the plate are tapped for short 4-40 screws.
Stan,
I hear what you are saying and I will give it a shot. I just hope they go through the holes far enough to add the nuts that hold them on now. I call them screws but they are more like rivets with threads. It will be difficult to move through those holes with oout some way to drive them.
You can't use the drive rivets thst were in the phone originally. You have to find 4-40 screws probably about 1/4 of an inch long. You don't use nuts. The screws thread into the two tapped holes in the plate. Remember they are installed from the inside out then into the plate.
AH! That makes sense. Now to track some of those puppies down. Gotta stop at a real hardware store for that. Thanks again.
Couple things turns out the screws that came with the phone actually did fit the threaded portion of the sign. The ones I bought were just a hair larger. In any case, I got the direction plate on. Here are some finished photos. Thanks again everyone!!
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Very Nice....Looks great. You just need a retainer ring for the dial. Outstanding job....you should be very proud....Doug