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Kellogg wall phone!

Started by AT2796, March 14, 2019, 11:22:26 PM

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AT2796

 Hello Everyone!
My latest score, eBay for $51 to my door. Apparently I have a thing for wall phones since my last four scores have been wall mounts.
Pictures will show below, really cool and clean phone.
Consider this a "preemptive strike" troubleshooting question.

First, from the wiring diagram in the phone, looks like I'll be moving some jumpers.

Second, the missing L1 lug. Can I scab the "G" lug to replace it? Or does anybody have one in their parts bin that they would part with?

Third, the loose wire on the right side of the induction coil, where does it go? It comes straight out of the coil but arrived as pictured.

Fourth, the extra capacitor on the right side, marked 1mf, goes from L1 to capacitor to ringer. Is this part of the party ringing wiring? I don't see a reference to it in the diagram.

I have only looked at it at this point, no testing yet, this weekend I'll get deeper into it

The dial looks like an AE, and is quite sticky on the return, but I'm pretty sure I can get it square.

Please check the pics and give me any advice or opinions!

Thanks,
Andy

Andy

AT2796

Just for fun, this phone came with an "on/off" switch added to the side. I would guess that this would connect to L1 somewhere inline to operate but will listen to you smarter folks opinions.
Switch was disconnected as received.

Pics below.
Andy

AT2796

Okay, cruddy cell phone pics...

The spade connector in the upper right is the L1. Connection to the 1mf capacitor to the ringer.

The missing wire from the induction coil is poorly represented in the pics, but is below the spade connector noted above.

The "missing lug would be "L1" the only other lug on the coil with no connection is the "G" lug I was asking if I could steal.

Clear as mud right!?
Thanks again!
Andy

HarrySmith

Nice phone. I will let the wiring experts chime in as I am not familiar with this set. I will guess that the on/off switch was for the ringer. You could use either one of the ringer wires for it.
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

RB

Hi Andy.
I do not know that phone. "disclaimer".
The cap in line with the ringer prob goes between L1 and L2.
pretty common I believe for CB phones.
The ground lug is what was used for the divided ringing, and will prob not be used, so avail if removable.
Need to look at the schematic closer for correct layout for coil.
someone will know where that loose wire goes.
Nice phone, by the way. :)

AT2796

Update...
It talks and rings like a champ!
After closely looking at the wiring it was not wired for party ringing, so no need to move any jumpers. The only problem was the missing L1 lug so I used the vacant G lug. The not connected wire from the coil was indeed the L1 wire. Soldered it to the vacant lug from G and made the other 2 L1 connections there.

I decided not to reconnect the on off switch, I am of the opinion that it was cut into the L1 side of the circuit and that is why the wires for L1 were all wonky.

Now I need to find some wall to mount all these phones to!
Andy

RB

SPACE...The elusive frontier. :(
Congrats. nice solve.
I built a payphone, "He already had a booth"... back in the 80's, from a regular wall phone.
for my then neighbor. He worked for the phone co.
He was not allowed to have a second phone at his home, but wanted one.
So, I put a coin rec from a video game in the wood outer box, looked like a square pay phone.
Oh yeah, the box was a door bell button box from an over a flower shop apt setup. Nice oak.
The coin tripped a locking relay, that gave him dial tone.
When the call was completed, a lit button was pressed, which released the relay, and line dropped.
Yours may have been hacked for something similar... or to cut off the bell???