AE 80 Dial Help! Can't Dial Out

[G-Man]

Wiring verified, all is accurate.  Blue and yellow wiring is separate and does not touch anywhere nor is any other wiring crossing/touching on the network.  The blue and yellow leads do touch when idle and when I dial they do clearly separate.  When I separate the 2 lobes (blue and yellow) while I have dial tone the dial tone remains. Hope this helps, thoughts?

Next, disconnect the red and white wires coming from the shunting-springs on the dial.

Gman, disconnected red and white from dial, still get dial tone and same issue when I turn the wheel, dial tone throughout.  Stub, my legs look the same as yours in the 1 position help. Thank you.

If you still have the same symptoms after you inserted the paper between the two pulsing contact springs then there must be a wiring issue. Even though you previously said that it's the same with the ringer disconnected, as part of the process of elimination, please disconnect the ringer wiring from the terminal board. Otherwise I am at a loss since the dial's pulsing contacts are normally wired in series with the switchook and line cord.

[unbeldi]

I hate to repeat myself, but it's not the dial itself.
If the glove doesn't fit you must acquit.

The dial looks perfectly good and when you say the springs move appropriately,  I can only believe you.

It is false that opening the pulse contacts interrupts dial tone.  It only interrupts DC loop current.  Dial tone should persist for at least a half second or so until the exchange detects loss of D.C. loop current and turns dial tone off. If there is a DC leak in the set elsewhere then dial tone will persist.   Since it does persist, the problem is elsewhere.

Most likely, the set is still miswired.  Since you can still hear dial tone during dial movement you know that the off-normal switch does not shunt the receiver either, and there can be no failure in any other component of the set to cause this.

So, back to basics, check the wiring once more.

[G-Man]

If it is wired as shown below then there should not be anything else to interfere with this series circuit.

Hookswitch wires-  Black wired to "10" and Yellow wired to "11"
Dial Pulsing wires- Yellow wired to "11" and Blue wired to "1"

Ringer wires are disconnected and no other wires are on the terminals listed above

[unbeldi]

... Otherwise I am at a loss since the dial's pulsing contacts are normally wired in series with the switchook and line cord.

The pulsing springs are bridged by an RC filter which only attenuates the audio frequencies but not cut them off.  So it is possible that the capacitor is shot, but even if that were the case, dial tone should not be heard during dial movement, the ON springs should silence the receiver.

[G-Man]

... Otherwise I am at a loss since the dial's pulsing contacts are normally wired in series with the switchook and line cord.

The pulsing springs are bridged by an RC filter which only attenuates the audio frequencies but not cut them off.  So it is possible that the capacitor is shot, but even if that were the case, dial tone should not be heard during dial movement, the ON springs should silence the receiver.

Of course you are correct about the shunt action not functioning correctly, indicating something is amiss wiring wise, but even then, if he confirms that that it is wired as shown in my last post, then it should at least break dialtone when a digit is dialed.

And yes, I also noted the .33uf capacitor but it is highly unlikely that it went south on us. However, in desperation,  my next recommendation was going to be that he disconnect the yellow and black hookswitch wires and connect the yellow wire from the dial directly to terminal "10" along with the red linecord wire. This would bypass the capacitor.


The only reason left would be that the service he subscribes to does not support rotary dialing, but he has assured us that he has other rotary telephones that are currently connected that are working fine.

[stub]

Mine won't dial out with this cap shorted out but the tone is shunted when dial is moving.
    Tim if you need another network I have several WA1154 A on hand for shipping.  stub

[Phonesrfun]

Hopefully all other phones on the line are hung up too.  (Goes without saying) 

How about a couple of good close-up photos of all the connections on the circut board?

[G-Man]

Unless the user is an avid AM radio listener the capacitor can be bypassed without consequence. It is used as part of an rfi filter and most likely is not very effective to squelch sparks for prevent contact pitting. So if it is proven that it is indeed shorted, then wiring the dial directly to terminal "10" will bypass it; even then any potential interference during dialing would most likely be negligible.

[NorthernElectric]

Handset is wired as follows: White on 4, White on 23, Black on 23, Red on 5.

Sounds like the handset cord may have been replaced with a WE cord.  Have you also confirmed the connections to the transmitter and receiver inside the handset?

[andre_janew]

I've been wondering that myself!  Also, is the handset WE as well?

[debeaune]

... Otherwise I am at a loss since the dial's pulsing contacts are normally wired in series with the switchook and line cord.

The pulsing springs are bridged by an RC filter which only attenuates the audio frequencies but not cut them off.  So it is possible that the capacitor is shot, but even if that were the case, dial tone should not be heard during dial movement, the ON springs should silence the receiver.

Of course you are correct about the shunt action not functioning correctly, indicating something is amiss wiring wise, but even then, if he confirms that that it is wired as shown in my last post, then it should at least break dialtone when a digit is dialed.

And yes, I also noted the .33uf capacitor but it is highly unlikely that it went south on us. However, in desperation,  my next recommendation was going to be that he disconnect the yellow and black hookswitch wires and connect the yellow wire from the dial directly to terminal "10" along with the red linecord wire. This would bypass the capacitor.


The only reason left would be that the service he subscribes to does not support rotary dialing, but he has assured us that he has other rotary telephones that are currently connected that are working fine.

Gman, disconnected the yellow and black form hookswitch, then connected yellow from dial to 10, same issue.  I do have a service that supports rotary phones, have 3 others hooked up and working.  Sorry this is a toughy, all I can figure is could it be the network?

[debeaune]

Mine won't dial out with this cap shorted out but the tone is shunted when dial is moving.
    Tim if you need another network I have several WA1154 A on hand for shipping.  stub

Stub, I have an extra phone I can pull it out of and try, thank you though sir.

[debeaune]

Hopefully all other phones on the line are hung up too.  (Goes without saying) 

How about a couple of good close-up photos of all the connections on the circut board?

Hope these help, thank you.

[debeaune]

Handset is wired as follows: White on 4, White on 23, Black on 23, Red on 5.

Sounds like the handset cord may have been replaced with a WE cord.  Have you also confirmed the connections to the transmitter and receiver inside the handset?

Cliff, rechecked, they are correct, the 2 whites on receiver and red/black on transmitter wired correctly per schematic.

[debeaune]

I've been wondering that myself!  Also, is the handset WE as well?

AE Handset, just a WE Cord, wired per drawing.