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Wiring a 701B with external ringer

Started by Dave, January 02, 2012, 01:47:09 PM

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Argee

Quote from: Dave on January 04, 2012, 01:11:20 AM

In order for the light to work you need the following:

1. Power Source. Could be one of the phone company's 2012A or 2012C transformers or (I used a) cell phone charger that puts out 6 volts at 350ma.

I have the original transformer that came with the phone, I also tried it with one that used to be wired into the house.

Quote
2. Working bulb in a socket.

put a new one in yesterday

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3. Wiring to connect the two.

I have the original ringer box as well.  The only thing that isn't original is the cord from the wall to the ringer.  I can post pictures this evening.

Argee

This is what I have, a 10-59 princess.  It dials and receives but doesn't light or ring.



inside the ringer



inside the phone



anything look wrong in the wiring?  I haven't been able to make much sense of the 701b schematic. 

jsowers

OK, I have the wiring figured out, following the diagram. Sorry it took so long, but I had to bring my work cell phone home so I could call my land line. I don't own a cell phone, by choice. Yes, they do come in handy sometimes.

There is a capacitor located under the ringer and it has white and yellow leads. My capacitor's leads have faded to white, but I notice that Argee has one that is still yellow. The ringer itself has slate-red, slate (these have faded to almost white), red and black. Slate was telco-speak for gray.

I think all that is necessary is moving the black ringer wire to screw 6. This is exactly what we do to 500 sets when they're wired for ground ringing, but it's labeled a lot clearer on a 500.

On my E1A, the black ringer wire was on screw 2, which is ground. On others it may be on screw 3. It's the black cloth wire. You can't miss it. Move it to 6 and you should be working.

Screw 1 should have slate-red and slate from the ringer.
Screw 5 should have yellow from the capacitor and the red line wire.
Screw 6 should have black from the ringer and the green line wire.
Screw 7 should have white from the capacitor and the red ringer wire.

I hope that clears up the mystery.
Jonathan

jsowers

Dave, I wasn't able to see your picture until after I posted. Your wiring looks correct in the picture. Make sure your bias spring is all the way into the notched area so the clapper springs back when you touch it. The bias spring is the thin silver springy wire next to the bell clapper.

Also be sure the ringer adjust lever is adjusted so the black rubber damper isn't touching the bell and silencing the ringer. You should get a ding when you press and release the clapper.

I suppose you could have other problems with the ringer. Or possibly two like-colored wires have gotten switched somehow. I don't advise loosening the screw that holds the core inside the coil (next to the X on Argee's second picture, on the far left side). You could mis-adjust the ringer and make it stop working. Others can testify to that. It hardly ever has to be adjusted.

Let us know if you have good luck.
Jonathan

Dave

Hi Jonathan,

I downloaded a wiring diagram, taught myself how to read it, and found that positions 3 and 4 on the ringer are supposed to have a blue, and a white wire attached to them. If you go back to my original post you'll see these two wires hanging loose. I've attached them but since all the rest of the family is in bed and I don't want phone ringers going off all over the house, I'll check my progress tomorrow.

Argee

Success! I have light and a ring.  Moving the black wire from 2 to 6 fixed the ringer, big thanks to Jonathan for that advise.  As for the light, I noticed the contact inside the socket was very stiff.  turns out you really have to turn the bulb in hard to get it to make contact.  Maybe that's why they replaced this bulb with the wedge kind.