By Dan/Panther
I will try to show you how to recover your suede, felt, or leather feet.
D/P
NOTE:
Several of these photos show the work being done by one hand. Most required two hands, and I only posed the photo to hold the camera.
In photo #4, I just wanted to let everyone know I can spell SCISSORS, it was too much trouble to replace the photo as I would have had to replace photos 4,5,6,7, an 8, to correct the error. You can't insert photos in between others, it always adds them to the bottom of the list.
Unless someone can tell me how to place them in different order.
D/P
Continued...
In photo 8, by tightening the mounting screw you will tighten the suede. So getting the suede tight is not critical at this point, as the insert will make it tight. Getting the suede fairly even around is more important, and not baggy.
You do, however, want as little slack in the suede as is possible before you tighten down the insert. if you find the suede is too difficult to hold, you may increase the size of the pattern to 1/2" oversized.
D/P
Nice job but some people may have difficulty getting the suede to tuck in even using two hands. A fixture can help with this. You can see the process I use here:
http://atcaonline.com/Footpad.html
Not being critical but a few of comments:
1. 302 footpads should have a 1/8" felt cushion. Only the 1936/1937 riveted on footpad did not have a cushion. Pre-WWII footpads used something like black tar as a cushion but post-WWII used 1/8" felt cushions. This also helps keep the leather tighter.
2. Using suede 0.030" to 0.040" thick reduces the effort to get the suede tucked in between the plates. Thicker suede tends to bunch up at the corners.
3. The original color used by WECo was chocolate suede. Same color was used for WECo candlesticks, A1, B1 and D1 desk stands when done in leather. Difficult to tell the color from the outside of a footpad but if you find an original one in reasonable shape, the inside of the suede will be dark brown. Probably just me being picky or maybe it is the lighting but your suede looks a light tan.
Dennis
Dennis;
The felt pad is mentioned, with a caution NOT to forget it.
I just happened to have about 5 pounds of very thin beige suede at the time, so that is what I used. Most I've taken off have looked dark, but I assumed it was age.
This was my first attempt at the feet, after collecting phones for about 6 months, so to have gotten it that close makes me feel pretty good, the fixture is definitely a plus.
D/P
Definitely a good job on your part. Sorry, I did miss the caution "NOT to forget the felt".
I use Chocolate Brown Sheer Cowhide Suede Splits from Tandy Leather. The downside is the minimum order size is 12 sq ft.
You can get the replacement felt in 12" x 12" sheets from McMaster-Carr. I use F26 industrial grade felt (1/8" thick). One sheet makes about 100 cushions. I cut the replacement cushions in the shape of the larger steel plate.
Not sure if it is allowed on this board but I do offer a footpad recover service for 302's, early leather 500's and 7H6 Galion as well as base plates for A1, B1, D1 desk stands and WECo candlesticks. You send me the old pads or base plates, I clean them up and recover them for a fee. If it is a riveted leather footpad like the early 302's and early 500's, you send be the base and I remove, recover and re-rivet the footpads.
If anyone is interested they can contact me at my email address.
Dennis
Dennis;
How close are 500 rivets rto original.
D/P
They are the same. These are only for the leather covered footpads not the neoprene. The neoprene are unique that I have not located. You can see the leather here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dencins/500Footpads# ---> dead link 6-21-17
Dennis
By the way, Dennis, welcome to the forum. You are such a familiar name, it hadn't occurred to me you were new here.
Any suggestions for a source for the suede? Can you get it at a fabric store?
Tandy Leather, mine is the beige, but Dennis says the original was a chocolate brown, I bought mine as remnants, about $5.00 for a large bag of it.
D/P
What type of store sells it? Would I have to buy it online?
Dennis (Decins) is too modest. If you ever see the quality of his work you won't go to the trouble of trying to do your own suede work.
Chuck Hensley
Chuck, I agree. Dennis' work is very very nice. He has recovered 302 pads for me, recovered a D1 base and riveted on Model 500 foot pads. All top-notch, professional and look like original installations. His fee is so reasonable that even with shipping it seems to me that I couldn't do it myself for much less and get the same result.
On the bottom of several 202s that I've seen, including my own I've noticed that there are several dark triangular shaped areas around the circumference on the leather that puzzled me. I've since learned that there were pads that were on the bottom that appeared to be made of cork and I actually missed buying a pack of these on E-bay. Were these pads used in the earlier days and then removed? Or did they just fall off or what?
Once you have everything set up, it takes about 45 minutes to cut and replace 4 feet. The photos of the ones I redid seem to show the suede as being loose, it is not it is very snug and if it were the chocolate brown would look very nice. Then again, I'm just thrifty. Plus the added satisfaction of something learned, and being able to say;"I did it myself."
D/P
Quote from: foots on March 22, 2010, 01:35:46 PM
On the bottom of several 202s that I've seen, including my own I've noticed that there are several dark triangular shaped areas around the circumference on the leather that puzzled me. I've since learned that there were pads that were on the bottom that appeared to be made of cork and I actually missed buying a pack of these on E-bay. Were these pads used in the earlier days and then removed? Or did they just fall off or what?
The triangular (also sometimes round) shape was left by rubber-cork pads that were added to the base plate cover on 102's and 202's. Many of these have fallen off over the years. Usually these are found on fabric (woven felt) rather than leather covers since the fabric slid on tables when dialing.
The following is taken from "From the Far Corners of the Earth" (1939) Pg 68:
"Leather is used to cover the bases of deskset telephones because, when dialing, it surface holds the telephone to the table more firmly".
The rubber-cork pads were glued onto the fabric covers if customers complained.
You can find .pdf of the 1927 and 1939 editions of "From the Far Corners of the Earth" here:
http://www.telephonearchive.com/pdf_page/index.html
You can find examples of the triangular pads here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dencins/NewCorkPads# ( dead link 1-28-2018 )Dennis
Quote from: foots on March 22, 2010, 01:35:46 PM
On the bottom of several 202s that I've seen, including my own I've noticed that there are several dark triangular shaped areas around the circumference on the leather that puzzled me. I've since learned that there were pads that were on the bottom that appeared to be made of cork and I actually missed buying a pack of these on E-bay. Were these pads used in the earlier days and then removed? Or did they just fall off or what?
These were installed when the customer complained of a phone slipping during dialling, or sliding because of the tension of a spring cord. You often see them stuck to the bottom plates of D-mounts, too. They have a tendency to "drift" and fall off.
Quote from: dencins on March 22, 2010, 03:49:01 PM
Quote from: foots on March 22, 2010, 01:35:46 PM
On the bottom of several 202s that I've seen, including my own I've noticed that there are several dark triangular shaped areas around the circumference on the leather that puzzled me. I've since learned that there were pads that were on the bottom that appeared to be made of cork and I actually missed buying a pack of these on E-bay. Were these pads used in the earlier days and then removed? Or did they just fall off or what?
The triangular (also sometimes round) shape was left by rubber-cork pads that were added to the base plate cover on 102's and 202's. Many of these have fallen off over the years. Usually these are found on fabric (woven felt) rather than leather covers since the fabric slid on tables when dialing.
The following is taken from "From the Far Corners of the Earth" (1939) Pg 68:
"Leather is used to cover the bases of deskset telephones because, when dialing, it surface holds the telephone to the table more firmly".
The rubber-cork pads were glued onto the fabric covers if customers complained.
You can find .pdf of the 1927 and 1939 editions of "From the Far Corners of the Earth" here:
http://www.telephonearchive.com/pdf_page/index.html
You can find examples of the triangular pads here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dencins/NewCorkPads#
Dennis
If anyone is interested in using felt cloth rather than suede to recover a base, the closest thing available today is pool table felt cloth. The colors vary by manufacturer so the best way would be to match the color to an old base cover.
I have seen light green (very old candlestick) and dark burgundy (102 and 202) pads.
Historically felt cloth was used on old candlesticks before dials were added. People were used to holding the candlestick so slipping on a table was not an issue. Once dials were added, the change started on base plate covers. When the desk stand and handset replaced the candlestick, people wanted to dial while holding the handset not the desk stand. Rubber-cork pads were put on felt covers and new phones were made with suede base plate covers.
Dennis
Thanks dencins and bingster for clearing up the mystery. My phone has a leather base and has the triangles on the bottom. I've even seen the triangles on phones in movies made back when those phones were new.
Quote from: dencins on March 22, 2010, 07:24:43 PM
Quote from: dencins on March 22, 2010, 03:49:01 PM
Quote from: foots on March 22, 2010, 01:35:46 PM
On the bottom of several 202s that I've seen, including my own I've noticed that there are several dark triangular shaped areas around the circumference on the leather that puzzled me. I've since learned that there were pads that were on the bottom that appeared to be made of cork and I actually missed buying a pack of these on E-bay. Were these pads used in the earlier days and then removed? Or did they just fall off or what?
The triangular (also sometimes round) shape was left by rubber-cork pads that were added to the base plate cover on 102's and 202's. Many of these have fallen off over the years. Usually these are found on fabric (woven felt) rather than leather covers since the fabric slid on tables when dialing.
The following is taken from "From the Far Corners of the Earth" (1939) Pg 68:
"Leather is used to cover the bases of deskset telephones because, when dialing, it surface holds the telephone to the table more firmly".
The rubber-cork pads were glued onto the fabric covers if customers complained.
You can find .pdf of the 1927 and 1939 editions of "From the Far Corners of the Earth" here:
http://www.telephonearchive.com/pdf_page/index.html
You can find examples of the triangular pads here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dencins/NewCorkPads# (dead link)
Dennis
If anyone is interested in using felt cloth rather than suede to recover a base, the closest thing available today is pool table felt cloth. The colors vary by manufacturer so the best way would be to match the color to an old base cover.
I have seen light green (very old candlestick) and dark burgundy (102 and 202) pads. I have also seen the BSP about adding the non-skid pads.
Jim
Historically felt cloth was used on old candlesticks before dials were added. People were used to holding the candlestick so slipping on a table was not an issue. Once dials were added, the change started on base plate covers. When the desk stand and handset replaced the candlestick, people wanted to dial while holding the handset not the desk stand. Rubber-cork pads were put on felt covers and new phones were made with suede base plate covers.
Dennis
I have seen NOS replacement felt w/ an outline for adding the triangle pads.
Thanks Jim. I did not think of the BSP.
It can be found here:
http://wedophones.com/TheBellSystem/pdf/bsp/200/C38.325.pdf
Do you recall how the outline was made on NOS felt pads? Ink? Impression?
Dennis
Quote from: dencins on March 24, 2010, 11:33:38 AM
Thanks Jim. I did not think of the BSP.
It can be found here:
http://wedophones.com/TheBellSystem/pdf/bsp/200/C38.325.pdf
Do you recall how the outline was made on NOS felt pads? Ink? Impression?
Dennis
They were done as an impression.
Jim
As far a suede is concerned, don't waste your money on Tandy's remnants they are too thick and only black and tan.
D/P
I called the local store and they have chocolate pigskin suede remnants also. It's pretty sheer though, 1.5-2oz.
Quote from: Dan/Panther on March 17, 2010, 07:54:27 PM
Dennis;
The felt pad is mentioned, with a caution NOT to forget it.
Where did you get your felt? It looks a bit like the stuff you get at the hardware store for putting on furniture legs. I'm hoping that will work.
I think I remember someone saying on another forum that they had gotten a suede jacket from Goodwill and cut it up for feet. I don't remember it that was Dencins or someone else.
Quote from: Phonesrfun on March 27, 2010, 01:13:53 AM
I think I remember someone saying on another forum that they had gotten a suede jacket from Goodwill and cut it up for feet. I don't remember it that was Dencins or someone else.
I remember that post, I am almost certain it was "Dencins the podiatrist".
It was way back in the day. He was only an advanced intern then.
Jim
Quote from: Phonesrfun on January 05, 1974, 08:13:53 PM
I think I remember someone saying on another forum that they had gotten a suede jacket from Goodwill and cut it up for feet. I don't remember it that was Dencins or someone else.
The suede jacket comment was from Bobby Koch on the Singingwires board. I have never tried using a suede jacket for footpads or base plate covers.
I have tried various suede including some from Joanne's, Tandy Leather and other craft places but not a suede jacket. The one I found that matched the WECo suede in thickness and softness was the Sheer Suede Splits from Tandy Leather but the problem is they only sell in 12 sq ft minimum order.
I did find a one foot square of regular suede at Joanne's Fabric and Crafts that is thicker and stiffer than I use but it can be put on footpads with some effort. I think it was also from Tandy but sold by Joanne's. The corners are difficult to do and tend to bunch up but it can be done.
Dennis
Tandy had a scrap of brushed leather that I think will be big enough to do all four feet (maybe 6x12in). He said I could just have it. It's a tiny bit warmer color than the chocolate, but I can always change it later if I hate this.
EDIT: OKAY THIS IS HARD.
Got my feet back from Dennis today and they are perfect. The leather I was trying to use was nearly twice as thick as he is using (he sent me a sample). Thanks!
Dennis;
What is your opinion of pigskin suede ?
I contacted my local Tandy store and the lady argued back and forth for awhile that pigskin suede would work great and look great, I argued that it was for vintage restoration and must be perfect match. She reiterated that pigskin suede in chocolate would be perfect for the feet. I ordered 7 square feet at $1.45 a foot. I will send you a piece when it gets here.
D/P
I bought ivory sheepskin suede for a 202 bottom not too long ago, and even that was a perfect match (material, not color). I don't think it really matters what kind of animal it comes from as long as it's sueded and is roughly the proper thickness
Well I picked up the Pigskin suede, and I'm not real happy with it.
can I have some opinions as to whether it will work ?
Both sides are about the same, so here are photos front and back. I'm wondering if they were brushed after mounting if the suede would puff a little ?
Dennis, and opinion ?
D/P
I think that the big question is if the phone will slide on the feet after they have been covered with the new suede. Will the suede provide enough friction to keep the phone still on an ordinary surface while dialing.
Larry
Quote from: Dan/Panther on May 06, 2010, 05:37:52 PM
Well I picked up the Pigskin suede, and I'm not real happy with it.
can I have some opinions as to whether it will work ?
Both sides are about the same, so here are photos front and back. I'm wondering if they were brushed after mounting if the suede would puff a little ?
Dennis, and opinion ?
D/P
D/P
The first issue will be installing and that will depends on thickness and softness. I would assume pigskin is very soft so that should not be an issue. Thickness should be between 0.036" to 0.040". If you exceed 0.040" it becomes difficult to get the plates together. If it is below 0.036", the interference fit that holds the plates together is marginal. Thickness was a key attribute to WECo. You can see this on pg 68 of the 1939 From the Far Corners of the Earth found here:
http://www.telephonearchive.com/pdf_page/assets/pdf_originals/WE_1939_BKLT_DM_Far_Corners_of_the_Earth.pdf
As far as the suede look, you might try using sandpaper (600 grit?) to rough up the leather before installing it.
Possibly it is the picture but it looks a bit light for chocolate. You can compare itto the color to the pads I sent you. Those are from Chocolate Sheer Cowhide Suede.
Dennis
The suede is a lot darker in person, but anyhow I chose to return it for cowhide suede.
The pigskin turned out to be .025 thousandths thick, and according to Dennis it's way too thin, it's 1.5 oz.
They said they would credit me towards cowhide.
D/P
Quote from: dencins on March 27, 2010, 07:59:11 AM
..... The one I found that matched the WECo suede in thickness and softness was the Sheer Suede Splits from Tandy Leather but the problem is they only sell in 12 sq ft minimum order.
.....
Dennis
Dennis,
can you post a link to this particular type. I have looked all over their website and have not been able to find "Sheer" Suede Splits. If I am going to order the suede, I want to make sure I have the correct item with the CORRECT THICKNESS.
Thanks
-Jim
Tandy Leather changed the name (and price) for the suede. What they used to call Chocolate Sheer Cowhide Suede they now call Premium Garment Cowhide Suede Split Chocolate Brown. They still have the 12 sq ft minimum so a piece plus shipping is about $60.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/cowhide/9105-02.aspx
This comes 2 oz to 3 oz thick. An oz in leather roughly translates to 1/64" so this suede is 2/64" to 3/64" thick. In decimal that translates to 0.030" to 0.047". WECo used 2 oz to 2 1/2 oz leather whcih was 0.030" to 0.040" so it is possible (and likely) that some of the suede will be difficult if not impossible to assemble. I measure the suede with calipers to find the thickness within the piece that works.
If anyone is interested I still charge $7.95 to recover a set of four footpads plus $2.00 return shipping per order for 302's and Galion.
I also do leather 500's which includes removing and installing the rivets if you send me the base for $7.95 per set of four plus return postage.
Dennis Hallworth
Quote from: dencins on August 24, 2011, 04:22:59 PM
Tandy Leather changed the name (and price) for the suede. What they used to call Chocolate Sheer Cowhide Suede they now call Premium Garment Cowhide Suede Split Chocolate Brown. They still have the 12 sq ft minimum so a piece plus shipping is about $60.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/cowhide/9105-02.aspx
This comes 2 oz to 3 oz thick. An oz in leather roughly translates to 1/64" so this suede is 2/64" to 3/64" thick. In decimal that translates to 0.030" to 0.047". WECo used 2 oz to 2 1/2 oz leather whcih was 0.030" to 0.040" so it is possible (and likely) that some of the suede will be difficult if not impossible to assemble. I measure the suede with calipers to find the thickness within the piece that works.
If anyone is interested I still charge $7.95 to recover a set of four footpads plus $2.00 return shipping per order for 302's and Galion.
I also do leather 500's which includes removing and installing the rivets if you send me the base for $7.95 per set of four plus return postage.
Dennis Hallworth
Thanks for the info !
$60 is a tittle steep for me right now. I am in the process of restoring about 6 or so 302's for (hopefully) Christmas gifts, so I kind of want to learn how to do this myself. I have used your service in the past (several years ago) and you did an excellent job !
I was wondering if this item on ebay MIGHT be worth the risk as it looks like it matches the description on the other web site. I realize it is only for 1 sq ft, but I might be able to recover all or most of my feet with this quantity, or I may go with 2 sq feet.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sheer-Cowhide-Suede-Splits-2-3-oz-4-Color-Choices-/390219468499?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=
I might just take the risk for $10.00 but would like to bounce this off the forum members first.
Thanks in advance.
-Jim
I have not seen this before but the words sound right. They do not list the colors but one looks like chocolate brown. First time I have seen 2 - 3 oz suede sold in smaller pieces. Real good price for anyone wanting to do footpads on a few phones.
Dennis Hallworth
Quote from: dencins on August 25, 2011, 12:29:00 PM
I have not seen this before but the words sound right. They do not list the colors but one looks like chocolate brown. First time I have seen 2 - 3 oz suede sold in smaller pieces. Real good price for anyone wanting to do footpads on a few phones.
Dennis Hallworth
Thanks Dennis,
I decided to take the chance and purchase 2 sq ft. I will let the forum know what the quality is and how I make out.
Since this will be my first time doing this, I may not know if any problems are due to material or "user error". We shall see .....
-Jim
Well I received the suede from ebay and the felt from amazon. Both pieces were about 12" x 24". I am pleased with the look and overall quality.
I have posted some pictures below, and will attempt to recover some foot pads today.
Well Dennis (and others),
I am just about to throw in the towel on this one. I have made the wooden template for the suede, felt and bottom metal piece to fit into. I have made the recess area 5/16" to 3/8" deep. I have also tried to make the pattern for the suede following you pictures. However every piece I cut is too big or too small. On the big pieces I try to trim and I wind up too small with some gaps. Getting the correct size to me is the critical step and I have yet to do it.
One or twice I though I had the correct size but then I could not thread the screw to tighten the top piece into the bottom. I have re-read the directions and I am confused. Am I supposed to get a different (non mounting) screw / bolt to bring the two metal pieces together or use the mounting screw.
In anycase I wasted about 4 frustrating hours yesterday with nothing to show for it except frustration and admiration for those who can do this successfully.
Dennis, I may use your services to recover the feet for 6 302 phones. Could you point me to your site, or send me a PM as to proceedures, cost etc.
Thanks.
Jim
According to my records I have recovered about 2000 footpads and I have only used the original screws to assemble them. As long as the suede is the correct thickness and you do not have too much bunched up between the plates, they go together. If you have calipers, you could measure the thickness of the suede. It needs to be less than 0.040" to fit properly.
I sent you a pm on cost, etc. I have an album with some of my work here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dencins/
Dennis Hallworth
Quote from: dencins on March 17, 2010, 07:29:11 PM
You can see the process I use here:
http://atcaonline.com/Footpad.html
Not being critical but a few of comments:
1. 302 footpads should have a 1/8" felt cushion. Only the 1936/1937 riveted on footpad did not have a cushion. Pre-WWII footpads used something like black tar as a cushion but post-WWII used 1/8" felt cushions. This also helps keep the leather tighter.
2. Using suede 0.030" to 0.040" thick reduces the effort to get the suede tucked in between the plates. Thicker suede tends to bunch up at the corners.
3. The original color used by WECo was chocolate suede. Same color was used for WECo candlesticks, A1, B1 and D1 desk stands when done in leather. Difficult to tell the color from the outside of a footpad but if you find an original one in reasonable shape, the inside of the suede will be dark brown. Probably just me being picky or maybe it is the lighting but your suede looks a light tan.
Dennis
Tried this method for the very first time today. Used some 2.5 to 3 ounce suede I bought at Tandy Leather.
Took me 20 minutes to cut the wood jig using a Dremel tool with a router bit, cut both suede and felt patterns out of blister pack using one good cover and felt pad, turned a half inch long 8-32 bolt into a capture tool using a few washers and a nut making the thread length just right, and then put new covers on four 302 feet in less than 45 minutes - the first one took me 15 minutes, the others, about 5 minutes each. Fast learning curve. This method really works well.
The first picture is the base (to be repainted later) with the new feet (with some sawdust on the suede) and the jig I made. I think making the jig a quarter inch deep with sharp egdes and a tight fit makes the crimping of the suede into the foot very easy. Under the blue painters tape are the plastic felt and suede patterns and under that there is a hole holding the bolt I used to hold the insert in place while I worked the leather evenly under the insert.
After getting a nice North Gallion in fine condition other than paint on all 4 feet, I then discovered that the above jig for a 302 (http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=822.msg78562#msg78562) could work but was not right for a Gallion. Slightly different side and the North feet are higher, thicker than a 302's feet. As such, came up with this, and am posting this in case any new members may want to read everything above and try this for themselves.
Took a painted foot (1A) and cut a jig with my router into a section of a fir 2x4 (1B). The North foot with its original covering fits nicely (1C). They drew an outline about 3/8" larger around the jig (1D).
Used and "O" ring removal tool (2A) to pry up on the inside part of the foot (2B) to remove it (2C) exposing the original covering (2D) ending up with the 3 foot components (2E).
Cut a piece of clear plastic into the shape of the cover outline (3A) and then made another one (3B) putting painters tape on both which helps hold the suede between them (3C) when cutting out the new cover (3D).
Placed the new cover inside the jig outline (4A). Unlike a 302 foot, the North feet do not have felt padding between the metal foot and the suede. Placed the inside component in the center (4B) and pressed down (4C) checking to see that the amount of suede that came up was even all around the outside component. Bent the excess into the outer component and placed the inside component on top of the curved over suede. Using a small, flat tool, I made sure all of the curved over suede was even all around - no bunching and under the inside component (4D). Then, using a piece of soft wood and a tack hammer (4E), I gently tapped the inside component evenly setting it into place and trapping and tightening the suede around the foot. Once seated, full insertion of the inside component can be done using a vice, vice grips, pliers or clamp by putting the foot between two pieces of wood and applying pressure until the inside component is fully seated. You will note in photo 2E, the original North cover was cut out on the inside edges leaving more room for the inserted piece. Since I did not duplicate that, my new covering had more material inside the foot and as such the inside piece was just a bit higher than the original piece after full compression. Once mounted, the different is near impossible to detect.
I used a short piece of brass tubing with one ended sharpened (5A) to drill through the suede from the inside (5B) to create a hole for the foot screw (5C). The screw was inserted (5D), the foot attached to the North base (5E) and a brush was used to clean sawdust off of the suede and to loosen up the suede that was compressed during the assembly above. Picture 5E shows the newly recovered foot and one to be done, covered with grey paint.
xzzx-Recover Suede Feet-xzzx
Very nice, John. That was a lot of work. Just documenting each step and setting up the photos must have taken quite a while. Thank you for sharing this. The finished product looks awesome.
you can get suede very cheap on ebay- just search suede scraps and there are a ton of listings for odd cut pieces.
Remember, the feet are the same as the 302's... except the screw stays on top, it doesn't mount from underneath.... (no hole through the suede)
Quote from: Babybearjs on September 06, 2014, 04:23:29 PM
Remember, the feet are the same as the 302's... except the screw stays on top, it doesn't mount from underneath.... (no hole through the suede)
Well, that's not what I found out when recovering the Gallion. Same process but not the same shape. I have a different jig for 302 feet. The North Gallion feet are a bit different in size and shape. At least, that's what's I found out.
If you look at the wood jig I use for the 302 feet (http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=822.msg78562#msg78562) and the Gallion jig, you can see the difference. Slight, but there is a difference that does not make them interchangeable. The Gallion feet are shaped like a piece of pie with curved sides and round points and the 302 feet are triangular with straight sides and rounded points.
And, yes, no hole through the 302 feet
This is my first post and I'd like to thank the collective group for all the good advice that has helped me to get a couple of phones in working order.
I just finished reconditioning a 1945 Gallon. It worked fine to begin with and was in nice shape, but just needed a good disassembling and cleaning. Particularly the dial needed some cleaning and lubrication. Most of the suede feet were dry rotted, so I found this thread and followed the instructions.
I ran into two major obstacles in my first attempts to recover a Galion foot. The first was finding the leather; the second was that the leather bunches up when you assemble the foot and the leather.
I recommend that you disassemble a foot in good condition and have a good look at the leather. This will not only give a sense of the thickness needed, but also the shape that your template should take.
My first attempts used leather recycled from an old bag, which was too thick. It had a leather liner which was too thin to use. Anyway, neither the bag nor its liner were suede or the right color. Fabric stores were not helpful, and the closest Tandy Leather is 18 miles away. Scraps of .3 to . 4 mm are not available online, so I found that I needed to visually match up to find the right thickness before purchasing. I did find a pair of ladies' chocolate brown suede boots for $7.99 at a a thrift store. This turned out to be a tad thinner than the 70+ year-old original. The results were not perfect but still serviceable.
I attach a scan of the original leather from a disassembled Galion foot. I ironed it flat, scanned it, and used it to create a template. You can see that unlike the templates shown earlier, this design is important. It has evenly spaced tabs and all the extra leather that bunches up has been cut away. However, it seems that this cover has shrunk over time and is smaller than the outlines I had used before. There is no way that I can stretch a cover of this size to fit on the foot, so through trial and error I scaled it to my needs. Basically, drop the JPEG file into Microsoft Word, right click on it and select Format Picture/Size. Deselect the 2 boxes, "Lock aspect ratio" and "Relative to original picture size". This allows you to stretch the height and width independent of each other. Then I entered the 2.1" H x 2.26" W measurements, which worked for me, and clicked OK. Print it out on photo paper or card stock, cut the outline with an Xacto knife, and you have your template. Proceed with the directions already given, and you should be able to recover your feet.
I will say it takes patience and effort to tuck the leather in and seal the 2 metal halves of the foot. I used a small regular screwdriver, the kind you would use on the terminal screws inside a phone. You have to use the insert to hold the leather in while you tuck in around the edges. It can get frustrating as one side will come undone while you're tucking in another side. Be patient and you'll persevere. Once I was satisfied that my edges were all under the insert, I was able to press down by hand to close up the foot, and I used a small hammer to tap it all the way home
The results are not perfect, but I'm happy overall. I'm attaching a couple of photos. There is still some bunching up around the edges. I think the leather could be just a little bit thicker, but the feet hold together fine.
Quote from: TelePlay on April 19, 2014, 10:28:21 PMAfter getting a nice North Gallion in fine condition other than paint on all 4 feet, I then discovered that the above jig for a 302 (http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=822.msg78562#msg78562) could work but was not right for a Gallion. Slightly different side and the North feet are higher, thicker than a 302's feet. As such, came up with this, and am posting this in case any new members may want to read everything above and try this for themselves...
I think it was a "Fatboy" that someone had painted, and the felt on the feet too. I was going to buy a Sharpie to see about coloring them black over the white paint but found a wonderful pen in a Parking lot the day I went to buy one. It just says "At A Glance" on it and it is better than a sharpie because it is blacker. Well the white painted felt feet I now have gone over with that ink. It looks just fine and a lot less trouble.
Quote from: markosjal on November 22, 2022, 05:17:00 AM...I was going to buy a Sharpie to see about coloring them black over the white paint but found a wonderful pen in a Parking lot the day I went to buy one. It just says "At A Glance" on it and it is better than a sharpie because it is blacker. Well the white painted felt feet I now have gone over with that ink. It looks just fine and a lot less trouble.
Is it a permanent product, won't stain the surface it is on?
For those outside the US not familiar with either, would you add photos of a 'sharpie' and the 'at a glance'?
Replacement feet a better option, but yes, it does take time and materials. They look good though!
:)
Here are the pics
I took a close up of one foot that I did not get inked very well and the pen, which is finer than the average sharpie. After I inked the feet I put the phone on the white sheet of paper and no stains on paper, other than just a little where the ink was still probably wet.
I still have to figure out how too get the white paint off the front edge of the outer dial casing. As you can see in the pic it has white paint too.