AE 80E Rotary Wiring Diagram (Reply #8) and Pictures

[H.S.Reaver]

Hello folks;

I'm new here, and new to these older classics. I recently came into possession of an AE 80-series (it's not marked, and the sticker on the bottom is no help identifying), which was converted to a "Governor's" phone (read "batfone look-alike").

However, it appears there was an attempt at converting it to 2-wire previously. However, the hardware inside is a mess, mostly disconnected.

My goal(s): be able to pick up (line hook), hear/talk, and the original bell ringer work.

If it's easier to just replace the board with an LM386-driven solid-state amplifier and relays, that's fine. However the 3 parts key to maintaining a classic look and operation must stay (the hookswitch, bell, and handset). Anyone with a modern amplifier board diagram for the conversion, it would be appreciated.

Here's a couple photos of what I am working with..

[LarryInMichigan]

H.S.,

Your phone is an (GTE) Automatic Electric AE80E.  You should certainly be able to make it work properly.  Try connecting the green wire from the line cord to the leftmost contact on the board in the second row from the front and the red wire to the contact to the right of it.  The yellow and black wires can be taped and stuck out of the way somewhere.  There are wiring diagrams available for AE80s (http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php?option=com_docman&task=cat_view&gid=265&Itemid=11), but I do not see AE80E shown.  You may be able to find useful information from the AE80 diagrams.

Larry

[HarrySmith]

I had a couple of 80E's and I was able to figure out the wiring from the other 80 diagrams, terminal numbering was similar. If not, clear pictures of what you have or post a diagram of what is there and we can get it working. No need to replace the guts.

[302lover]

Here's your line cord wiring you need to do:

1. Connect the red line cord or line cord jack lead to terminal 10 on the network.
2. Connect the green line cord or line cord jack to terminal 8.
3. The yellow line cord/line cord jack lead goes to terminal 9.

If a black line cord lead/line cord jack lead is present, tape the lugged end, and store it in the phone.

Tip: When positioning/dressing the line cord leads, run them between the two big capacitors to keep them out of moving parts. You may also run them under the ringer near the vol. lever.

Terminals 8, 9, and 10 are located on the left front side of the network on the base (the same side the handset cord comes out from.

[H.S.Reaver]

Alright. What i have so far (photo's below, note they are HD1920w photos)...

Per the AE80b diagram (the D/E diagrams from link above refer to 3-wire handset, this phone is 4-wire):

RingerBell is: R->(front)9, (front)6

LineJack is: R->(front)10, G->(front)8, Y->(front)9 This baffles me, as B/Y wires are completely unused in my house wiring. In fact only G/R are connected at the appt complex's junction for every apartment.

HandSet is: R->(side)5, B/G->(side)23, Y->(side)5

Thus far no dialtone, no ring. No wires are faulty, tested and highest res is 32 Ohm, which is fine.
The set does make a "ting" noise when the hook is tapped on, however does not sound like the Bell's solenoid.
No sound from handset when hook is tapped.

Note that the unused Y line wire is connected to the Bell's R wire.. so likely no power for the RingerBell. May have to find an alternate method.

Note: the blue colored Mica capacitor near the hookswitch on the board looks singed around it's edge. Perhaps it took a lightning hit?

[dsk]

I have struggled (learned) a lot by working on my AE80E, what is the id (text) stamped on the circuit board?

dsk

[H.S.Reaver]

"HB-1009" is printed under the HookSwitch, on the top side of the board.

[dsk]

If you read through this thread: http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=3716.0
You may find pictures, and diagrams helping you. If the varistor near the hook-switch are defect, the signal may be a little to load, because of the automatic compensation. It should still be in working order.
You may strap it an see if that makes it work better.

Good luck.

dsk

[H.S.Reaver]

Alright, thanks.

I'll try to work this out over this coming week.
I'm pretty sure at this point that a bridge is missing, or a component on the board is shot/open (thus not passing any audio thru). Time to get the old Simpson VOM out.

--Edit--
It appears that this is the correct board diagram. *atch*
Now, to find out which Mica cap the purple/blue one is, and find it's value. I am sure it needs replaced.
I have everything wired as this diagram, minus the brown wire from RotaryDial to the board, as this Rotary has none.

If it helps find the component, on the bottom of the board is etched "HB-5008-A" below "ISS:20". perhaps that can help someone with manuals find which Capacitor this is and its value.

I managed to manually focus and get super-close shots of the transmission network board.

Any further suggestions, including the mica cap's values, let me know.

[H.S.Reaver]

Well, I have made no progress. Still no audio or ring. No component list to attempt to fix the board.

So, sadly.. this phone is once again in a box of junk. Someday I will dig it out and try to manufacture a board that works, but I dont have the time for this.

Fairly disappointed in the lack of documentation, schematics, and component lists.

[AE_Collector]

I have lots of junker 80E's. Do you want one to use as a parts phone? Or if you are quite certain that it is the main circuit board that needs replacing I can mail you that part only.

The hook switch contacts are particularly prone to causing trouble with AECo 80E phones so that could be a source of your problems too.

If you don't particularly care about this phone, I would like to have a red 80E in my collection so we could talk $$ to box it up as is and mail it to me as is. I could send you a good working 80E but it won't be a red one.

Terry

[H.S.Reaver]

Terry,

That was actually THE best suggestion ever.
I popped the clear Hook lever off of the neoprene switch assembly, ran some Testors 600 grit between the contacts, and bent the Off-Hook arms to forcibly contact but barely break when lifted.

Now, I have dialtone (in VOIP too). Now, to fix/test the ringer.

Thanks a ton.

[AE_Collector]

Okay progress at least.

The ringer just needs to be in series with the capacitor that has spade lugs crimped onto the leads and then put it across the line. One ringer lead on 10, other ringer lead with one capacitor lead on 16 (bunching point) and other capacitor lead on 8 should do it.

Terry

[H.S.Reaver]

Okay progress at least.

The ringer just needs to be in series with the capacitor that has spade lugs crimped onto the leads and then put it across the line. One ringer lead on 10, other ringer lead with one capacitor lead on 16 (bunching point) and other capacitor lead on 8 should do it.

Terry

Well, that's exactly how it is. In fact, I removed the capacitor end and the end of the Ringer coil (leaving them together on the "6" (16) post), and clipped text leads to a phone jack and had a friend call. Seems VOIP doesnt have the voltage for these old solenoid coils. I may test it on a regular landline later (mine has dialtone but is out of service, as I went with VOIP from my ISP)

I'll see if I can come up with another method, perhaps a tiny wall adapter with a reed relay. Simple and reliable.

[AE_Collector]

Some VOIP ATA's don't produce enough ringing voltage for mechanical ringers. You will have to rely on an electronic ringer in another phone to alert you to incoming calls.

Terry