Wiring a 233g

[Tamnative]

First, I would also attach the slate wire to the A terminal from the other side of the screw terminal to get the spade lug barrel away from the F terminal.

Also, attach the red line and ringer wires to the other L2 screw terminal from off the network to keep the exposed metal away from the network solder point between L2 and R.

The way it is now wired is messy and could lead to unintentional contact with other terminals.

Clean up the wiring first and then try the ringer. If it still doesn't work, try what I suggested in my previous 2 posts above.

Thanks I will check all this see what happens.Thanks again.

[TelePlay]

This is the circuit diagram of a 425 B/E network (the only difference is a screw terminal C added to the "B" network to make it a "C" network.



This is the same diagram with the Talk Circuit outlined in BLUE and the Ring Circuit in RED. Other than L1 and L2 being in both circuits (line in terminals), the ring circuit is separate from the talk circuit which makes sense in that the Ring Circuit works with about 90 VAC at 20 HZ and the talk circuit is low voltage DC.



This is the complete circuit diagram for a WE 500 C/D taken from the TCI Library.



This is the ring circuit portion of that diagram with the path colored and the Black ringer wire moved from G to L1 (the G terminal was used for grounded ringing which is no longer used with 2 wire line cords)



The ring circuit is a simple circuit, green line cord to L1, black ringer wire to L1, slate ringer wire to K, internal capacitor from K to A, slate/red ringer wire to A, red ringer wire to L2. None of this has anything to do with everything else in the network, the talk circuit.

[TelePlay]

The above replies with circuits were posted to hopefully educate members on not only which wire goes where but also why.

Knowing the "why" helps one troubleshoot problems on the bench by understanding circuits and what the circuits do in a telephone, in this case the ringer circuit.

[Tamnative]

The above replies with circuits were posted to hopefully educate members on not only which wire goes where but also why.

Knowing the "why" helps one troubleshoot problems on the bench by understanding circuits and what the circuits do in a telephone, in this case the ringer circuit.

Thanks for all the information I can better understand now.
I just got done trying to check both the 425E and the ringer. As my multimeter doesn't have capacitance capability all I could do was a continuity test and I didn't get any on either the 425 or the ringer. I don't know if that means anything with the 425 but I think I'll check the ringer again but I'm not expecting much. At this point I may just look for another phone that has the same parts. Thank you all for the help.
I will check back later in case you can think of anything else but I think I have got it narrowed down.

Happy Holidays

[poplar1]

You can at least measure the resistance from Red to Slate-Red (approx. 2650 ohms) and from Slate to Black  (approx. 1000 ohms) with the ringer disconnected, using the 10,000 ohms setting on the meter if you have to choose.

Personally, I would be at least 90% satisfied to have the talk circuit working, even if the ringer didn't work.