WE candlestick with 20CE perch

[Witty]

I have a WE candlestick with the perch stamped 20CE. Does anyone have information on this? It is a manual  stick. The base has the 1-1/2" round name plate in front of the stem.
Have tried researching onlone but can't find any information for that stamp.
Thanks for any help.

[Witty]

Sorry, I should have posted pics.

[Witty]

To add further, it seems this had a black finish that was removed long ago. My biggest concern is that it might be a reproduction set because nothing seems right, the perch stamp nor the base name plate, which I also can not find information about. Maybe that's why I have no response but If that's true I'm ok with knowing that. It still looks nice.

[HarrySmith]

I am guessing the reason you did not get any replies is because nobody is familiar with that stick. Did you search the TCI library? If you are a member you might ask on the lists, I am sure someone there will have the answer.

[Jack Ryan]

I don't know what a 20-CE is but it is not a reproduction.

I have seen number cards fitted to the base of candlesticks before but I don't know who put them there.

Jack

[Witty]

Thanks for the replies!
I became a member years ago but because of work load wasn't able to spend the time I wanted to on my collection. I just recently retired and am getting back into working on my collection.
The base on this is molded to accommodate the small flat area for the name plate. It's definitely an old mold with the Pat. dates stamped on it around the stem.
I will check the TCI library for more information. One site noted that 20-C stamps were used on operator sets I think, but this set doesn't appear to have been used for that.
I will keep researching and post anything I find.
Thanks again for your help!
Ken

[HarrySmith]

Did it come with a dial card? If so that might yield a clue.

[Witty]

It did not come with a name card. It also was missing the cords, which I will have to find to make it work again.
Here are some more pics, showing the center post assembly, the inside of the base, and inside the bottom plate.

[Doug Rose]

Base cover states it's a 20AL. They are fairly straight forward to wire up, but you will need a subset to work. You can wire it with a modular cord if you just want to show your friends it work, but these are very difficult to have a conversation on.

Can you post a pic of the complete stick as you have now....Doug

[Witty]

Here are a few extra pics.
Looking closer it's appears it had a black finish that someone removed to expose the brass. The transmitter tag says 323 with a pat. date below it. The receiver cap has Western Electric Company 143 AW on it. The 20 Al circuit would seem to be the right match for whatever the 20CE use was. My goal is to restore it to the original black, original circuit, with a subset and ringer box.
Hopefully I can come up with an appropriate name tag for it.

[Witty]

Sorry for the rotation.
The pics were right when taken, and were right when I attached them. Something in the posting rotated them for some reason.

[FABphones]

Sorry for the rotation.
The pics were right when taken, and were right when I attached them. Something in the posting rotated them for some reason.

This was discussed recently:
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=24782.msg245396#msg245396

Click the link on the above thread for a step by step guide to posting images.

[poplar1]

Base cover states it's a 20AL.

Diagram on the base plate is actually for a 120AL (anti-sidetone). 120AL has 2 sets of make contacts, just like a 202 or 302 does, and a 4-conductor cord.

This 20 CE switch (or 120 AL switch?) appears to have extra contacts compared to a 20 AL. Depending on how it is going to be wired -- say, with a (534A sidetone subset -- you may have to get creative. Normally, a 20 AL has a 3-conductor cord, and the hookswith has one set of 3 make contacts that connect one side of the receiver and one side of the transmitter to the red wire of the cord going from the phone to the subset. The green wire of this cord connects directly to the receiver, and the yellow connects directly to the transmitter.

[poplar1]

Witty, can you take a picture from the side of the contacts to show if there are 2 sets of 2 make contacts? I am guessing that there are, since the layout of the terminals looks very much like a 151AL (anti-sidetone with dial).

[TelePlay]

Sorry for the rotation.
The pics were right when taken, and were right when I attached them. Something in the posting rotated them for some reason.

This was discussed here

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=19080.msg195978#msg195978

In short, due to malicious software code embedded in image code by people wanting to do harm, the SMF software re-codes images by slightly adjusting their size to scramble the image code to destroy any possible malicious content. Also removed is most of the image meta/EXIF data attached to an image by modern day cameras. One of those bits of code lost in taht removal would tell the computer how the raw image should be rotated to be display as taken. When that rotation code is stripped away, the image shows in its raw format in the forum SMF software so if taken sideways, it will display sideways after going through the SMF security upload algorithms.

Best way to upload images is to send them to a PC first, use a simple image editing program such as MS Paint to rotate, crop and resize the image, save the edited image with an informative file name and then attach it to a forum post.