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WIRING A WESTERN ELECTRIC 52AB CANDLESTICK

Started by gands-antiques, September 09, 2014, 02:32:10 PM

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gands-antiques

Hello,

I recently purchased a Western Electric dial candlestick and I am trying to wire it and plan to connect it to a 684A subset (ll 37).

The candlestick had a #2 dial in it when I bought it but it was in bad shape so I replaced it with a 4H dial.

The number on the back of the perch is 20AL and it has a line stamped through it.

The number on the front of the perch is 51Al and it has a line stamped through it.

There is a number stamped on the side of the perch and it is 52AB and it has not been lined out.

I downloaded a wiring diagram from the TCI Library for a 52AB and I have tried to wire it with the diagram but I have not been successful.

-----------------------------

- There are 3 hook wires coming from the stem and the color of the wires are hard to tell but it looks like two of them are brownish and one is black.   
- The receiver has 2 wires... one has yellowish stripes and one has green stripes
- The cord to the subset has 3 wires....one has red stripes, one has double red stripes and the third one has green stripes.


Any assistance with where each of the wires should be connected would really be appreciated.

Thanks,
Gary 

paul-f

First, check to see if the parts in the phone match the diagram you're using.  It's entirely possible that the parts have been changed again, and the current "model number" isn't marked on the phone.  Check carefully for switch configuration and NO/NC contacts.

In any case, it's worth the time to draw a wiring diagram for your phone by observation to record the parts configuration and your wiring starting point.

Comparing your diagram with several 50-series diagrams may help you determine what needs to be changed.

Good luck.
Visit: paul-f.com         WE  500  Design_Line

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unbeldi

#2
The 52AB desk stand uses a sidetone circuit.  The 684A subscriber set you have chosen is an anti-sidetone set.  While it is possible to make that work, the result will only be a sidetone telephone. The 52AB does not have enough hookswitch contacts for proper anti-sidetone operation.

If each part is wired correctly,  red stripe should correspond to R in subset,  green stripe to GN in subset, and double red (should really be yellow) to L2Y in subset.

There are some alternate wiring schemes due to war time restriction for connecting sidetone sets to anti-sidetone subsets, but they are not optimal.

A suitable sidetone subset would be 534A or 584A.

gands-antiques

I've got several subsets but none of them are 534A or 584A....I have a 584DE and a 584DF. Will either of these work?


Thanks,
Gary

gands-antiques


unbeldi

Quote from: gands-antiques on September 09, 2014, 06:06:22 PM
I've got several subsets but none of them are 534A or 584A....I have a 584DE and a 584DF. Will either of these work?


Thanks,
Gary

Both, 584DE and 584DF are just extension ringers, they don't complete a desk stand, no.
But, I believe, I have seen these retrofitted as subset, without having the type stamp updated.  So again, you need to check the equipment to make sure they match the marking.  When you look at the printings on the ringer coils, the 585DE (2 x 1750 ?) should have a higher resistance than the DF (2 x 750 ?)


unbeldi

Quote from: gands-antiques on September 09, 2014, 06:08:46 PM
What are NO/NC contacts?

Thanks,
Gary

If that's printed by some kind of switch, it means normally open (NO), and normally closed (NC).

unbeldi

How is yours equipped?  Does it have a bull dog transmitter already?  What kind of head set does it have?
I think we would love some pics as always, these are not so commonly found actually, I believe.
Because of the headset, when users place multiple calls, they only depress the switchhook, but this could results in popping impulses and therefore the stands have varistors installed to damped the impulse and prevent ear damage.


gands-antiques

Hello,

It has a bull dog transmiter. I will take some pictures now,

Thanks,
Gary

gands-antiques

#9
Adding pictures....

unbeldi

#10
Wow, I am surprised.  The 2 after the 5, as in 42AB, 52AB  indicates that the switchhook is a headset cradle, not a normal receiver fork.


The red-red conductor in the mounting cord turns out to be yellow after all, right ?  :-)

Very nice looking cords. 

unbeldi

#11
.

gands-antiques

The red conductor is connected to the R on the little phenolic block and the yellow conductor is connected to BB terminal on the dial. I believe it wasn't connected to anything when I removed the 2A dial. Nothing is connected to the R terminal on the dial which was previously something else that was struck through.

I tried to interpret the 52AB wiring diagram but I had a lot of trouble with it and I couldn't fiure out where all of the wires are supposed to go.

Thanks,
Gary

poplar1

#13
Someone removed the headset and hook designed for headset, and replaced it with a standard hook and receiver, in effect making it a 51AL. Other than the varistor, a 51AL and 52AB are wired the same. So you can use a 51AL diagram.

The wires you currently have on BB and Y of the dial are reversed: The yellow wire from the subset goes to Y on the dial and the brown-blue wire from the hook switch goes on BB.

For reference:
50AL--no terminal block--4-conductor dial cord--3 conductor cord to the subset
51AL or 52AB--one terminal block (R GN)--3 conductor switch cord--3 conductor cord to the subset
151AL or 152AB--two terminal blocks (R GN and Y-B RR)--5 conductor switch cord--4 cond. to subset

On all of the above, when using a 2H, 4H or 5H dial instead of a 2A, strap the BB and R dial terminals together. (No other wire on R of the dial.)

"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

gands-antiques

#14
I just looked at the 51AL diagram and it is the same diagram as the 52AB that I have been having trouble interpreting.

Will someone please tell me where each of the wires should be connected to.

51AL--one terminal block (R GN)--3 conductor switch cord-2 conductor receiver cord -3 conductor cord to the subset

The colors of the 3 conductor switch are hard to tell apart because two of them look the same color (brownish) and one is black.   

* I will have to figure out something for the subset. 

Thanks,
Gary