Help in Wiring a Northern Electric 444EC

[RDPipes]

Just received this phone and found one wire from the hook switch that looks to be cut off (I stripped it back to figure out which contact it went to). And one other wire from the "W" of the #6 dial torn off, at least it looks that way. Both are circled in the photo. Now normally with a 302 I wouldn't have this problem but, being I can't find the other corresponding ends to the wires and where the wires would normally go there is already a wire there, I'm at a bit of a stand still and puzzled, that and I'm colorblind so I must use a multimeter to track wiring down. Thank you for any help.

[RDPipes]

I think I just figured it out, someone has had their busy little fingers in here.
The frayed wire on the "W" of the #6 dial is where the handset wire (white) that is connected to the "Y" of the dial is suppose to be and the cut off hook switch wire should be on the "Y" where the handset wire (white) is now. Someone has the dial wired like its a #5H instead of a #6 which it is, at least that's what I think. Can anyone confirm? Handset cord may have been replaced by a novice, they screwed up, couldn't getting working and quit. At least I'm hoping that, LOL! I need to replace the hook-switch so I wanna make sure I got this right before hand.

[paul-f]

The frayed wire on the "W" of the #6 dial is where the handset wire (white) that is connected to the "Y" of the dial is suppose to be and the cut off hook switch wire should be on the "Y" where the handset wire (white) is now.

From the diagram posted here http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?msg=259834

Two wires go from the hookswitch to dial -- to terminals marked BB and Y.

The handset W wire goes to W on the dial.

[FABphones]

Could you add a photo of the front of phone?
 

[RDPipes]

From the diagram posted here http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?msg=259834

Two wires go from the hookswitch to dial -- to terminals marked BB and Y.

The handset W wire goes to W on the dial.

Yep, that's what I said, thank you Paul.

[RDPipes]

Could you add a photo of the front of phone?
 

I already locked the shop up but, I'll see to it tomorrow CJ.

[RDPipes]

Here's a photo of the phone in question.

[FABphones]

Nice. Do the buttons still move freely?

Looking forward to seeing the 'after' of this phone. One on my wish list.

 

[RDPipes]

Nice. Do the buttons still move freely?

Looking forward to seeing the 'after' of this phone. One on my wish list.

 

Yep, the buttons work fairly well, one button sticks a little but, it should be easy enough to sort that out. I'm waiting on some 51A lamps for it to light the buttons up, this may take sometime to figure out seeing the take 10V pwr supply instead of 6V ones I have. Swapped out the hook-switch with the cut wire already and decided to swap the #6 dial it had in it for a #5H I was using in a 302 build instead. The BSP on this phone states to use a rubber coiled cord H3AF and I was lucky to have one in real good condition. Although I'd like to see a cloth handset cord on it to match its original line cord but I want to make it conform to Bell system standards. But, I'm still debating it because I do have an original cloth coiled cord I can use instead so I'm really leaning that way.
Anyway, I got the case sanded and polished and need to do the same to the handset yet and I'll be very close to finished except I'm still needing a replacement designation card.

[poplar1]

There are two types of Trimline lamps; one of them is the same shape as the 51A, and would work with a 6V transformer.

Also, your phone is Northern Electric, not WE. Note the word "patented", which is not on the WE sets. Also, the induction coil and ringer have month-day-year. 1957 is probably too new for a WE model.

By 1957, I am guessing they came with an H3AG cord -- neoprene jacketed straight cord. H3AF cords are the worst: about 99% of them have static. Which BSP shows H3AF as standard?

[RDPipes]

There are two types of Trimline lamps; one of them is the same shape as the 51A, and would work with a 6V transformer.

Also, your phone is Northern Electric, not WE. Note the word "patented", which is not on the WE sets. Also, the induction coil and ringer have month-day-year. 1957 is probably too new for a WE model.

By 1957, I am guessing they came with an H3AG cord -- neoprene jacketed straight cord. H3AF cords are the worst: about 99% of them have static. Which BSP shows H3AF as standard?

That figures, Northern eh. Now I feel cheated, no where on it states Northern but, the handset was a F1W which I switched back to F1, reckon I need to switch it back. I'm beginning to wonder if this isn't a put together phone from extra parts. Now I feel like Larry does about his recent phone. And I traded a nice phone for this thing. Oh well, I reckon it could have been worse. Here's the BSP that shows the H3AF on page 4.

[Contempra]

.. Also, your phone is Northern Electric, not WE. Note the word "patented", which is not on the WE sets. Also, the induction coil and ringer have month-day-year. 1957 is probably too new for a WE model.....

You're right about the model, it's a Northern Electric. I have one, but without the buttons and I suspect the curly cord is not the real cord for the handset. Anyway, the cord of the handset must be changed (wire that crumbles inside the cord which causes interference and I hear crackling when I move the handset cord.

[poplar1]

Here's the BSP that shows the H3AF on page 4.

The photo shows H3AF, but the table shows "F1G-3" handset. F1G is a handset with straight rubber or neoprene cord (H3H, H3AD, or H3AG).

[RDPipes]

The photo shows H3AF, but the table shows "F1G-3" handset. F1G is a handset with straight rubber or neoprene cord (H3H, H3AD, or H3AG).

Okay, not that it really matters now anymore. I think I'll go with the cloth cord I have.

[MMikeJBenN27]

Nothing wrong with Northern Electric, as they are the same.  Designs stayed in production a couple of years longer, but otherwise the same.  Still Bell.
PS:  F1W means it was for a non-Bell operating company.


Mike