Help with 10H upper housing lock

[RotarDad]

I just found a WE 10H upper lock for my 236G payphone.  The lock does not work with my 10G key.  If I insert the key completely, the lock won't move.  If I pull the key out a 1/16", the cylinder will turn maybe 75 degrees (less than 1/4 turn) but the latch does not move at all.  My understanding is that a 10G key will usually work on a 10H lock.  Is it possible I really must have a 10H key for this one, or is the lock damaged?  The lock looks to be in pretty good shape and not rusty or outwardly damaged.  Any thoughts?  Thank you!

[poplar1]

I think the 10H takes a 10G key. ISTR that the only difference in a 10G and 10H lock is that the 10G is black and the 10H is chrome. Please correct me if this is incorrect.

You may have to loosen the back to remove the upper housing. Hopefully, it is not mounted on the wall! I've also heard that it is possible to remove the UH by prying it off with a screwdriver, but I have never tried that.

[poplar1]

Where did you get your 10G key? Does it work on other 10G or 10H locks?

I have ordered 29-S keys for Automatic Electric pay phones from phoneco and found that they will open some AE locks but not others. I don't understand their grinding process. I'm planning to order some AE, NE and WE style keys from Paul Vavarchak.

[G-Man]

A 10H is actually the same as a 10G lock except it has been strengthened by welding the gap between its two halves that are pressed together.
This is so the lock does not separate when the upper housing of the payphone is pried open by thieves.

A 10G key is used for both locks so there is no such thing as a 10H key.

Another locksmith that specializes in repairing payphone locks and making keys for them is Jody Haralson.

Jody Haralson
1422 Charlemont Avenue
Hacienda Heights, CA 91745
(626) 219-4006

[RotarDad]

Thanks for the input.  The lock was bought separately so no issues with getting the phone open.  My 10G key was bought on Ebay from Steve Stansfield and it is a repro.  I don't have another 10G or 10H lock to try it on.  But good to know the key should not be an issue assuming it was cut properly.

[RotarDad]

  I found a pic of a 10G on oldphoneworks' website - mine looks just this. After comparing the two in detail, the only slight difference is that the tip on mine (the part of the key deepest in the lock) looks more flat versus the oldphoneworks key appearing more rounded at the tip - could this be an issue?

[RotarDad]

I took some pics of my 10G key. Not great, but this one shows the nearly flat tip  and 90 degree (right angle) to the notch at the top edge.   The stock photo above appears to show the end of the key being more rounded (curved).  If I'm right, then my key has a bit of extra metal in that area which should have been cut away.  Can anyone confirm that the curved profile is correct, or post a pic of a known-good key?   I'm tempted to file my key to see if that works.....  Thanks!

[G-Man]

If you file the blank you will void any recourse you may have with the seller. Instead of fussing with it any longer have the seller send you another one that he has tested before shipping it out. Send back the first key if the new one works ok.

If it doesn't, ship the original along with the lock to either Jody Haralson or Paul Valverchek so they can remedy the problem.

[RotarDad]

Update on my 10H lock:  It now works!  I was able to confirm with Steve Stansfield that he does indeed test each key in a lock prior to sale.  He offered to swap my key for another one, but I didn't need that after all.  Armed with the knowledge that I had a known-good key, I was a bit more aggressive with the lock.  I carefully put more pressure on the key while jiggling things.  After a bit of effort, there was a small "pop" and the lock was free!   Even with lock lubricant, I was hesitant to push it previously given that deep vertical cut in the key - I've heard they can break easily.

Problem solved - thank you, Steve and thank you, David and G-Man for the input and good advice!