Need Wiring Diagram For Nickel / Chrome ?? Plated Leich Non-Dial Cndlestick

[unbeldi]

Since my phone doesn't have a coil and I don't have a #8 subset is troubleshooting it going to work?

Well, we're not troubleshooting yet,  we are trying to find out exactly what you have there and what might be possible to do.  For that, every small detail is needed so we can compare with the scarce information that is available.  Once we know which features you have available in hardware, we can perhaps determine the model number, and suggest methods to make it work.  You don't need a No. 8 subset necessarily, I and Phonesrfun suggested already that you can most likely use a 534A, for example.

[gands-antiques]

Thanks and I do appreciate your help.   Requested pictures added.

Thanks,
Gary

[unbeldi]

Excellent pics, thanks.  I can pretty much draw a diagram just from that one picture.

So the receiver is of the permanent magnet type, and this is not a direct current unit.  I think this is the No. 7 receiver with the No. 11B receiver cord, having pins on both ends.

The switch indeed has four terminals, one unused.  It looks like there may have been a wire soldered to it at one time, as the lug appears to have still some solder on it.

The connection plate has three terminals on it left unused for a mounting cord. I think that means it used a booster type subset and this is not a local battery telephone, but common battery.

I think all we need to determine now is which terminal is which mounting cord wire in the diagram I showed earlier.

[gands-antiques]

I am still concerned about the issue with the hook switch, because I connected a line cord to various terminal combinations yesterday it has an open circuit regardless if the receiver is on or off of the hook.     

Thanks,
Gary

[unbeldi]

Ok, so here is the connection scheme indicated in the same picture.

The red, green, and yellow mounting cord wires are leaving the pictures, they are the same ones as on my circuit diagram that I showed earlier.

Please digest.

If you want to test your hookswitch for continuity, simply connect a line to the yellow and green positions.  This places the transmitter and the receiver in series.

But it should be fairly easy to tell by looking at the springs whether they open and close when the hook lever rod is pushed back and forth.

[unbeldi]

Here is a typical generic booster type subscriber set diagram using the same color scheme.

[unbeldi]

One issue that seems to occur with these old transmitters is that they may show extremely high resistance, IIRC.
This would appears as an open circuit.
I don't know if they can be fixed, perhaps others can chime in.

But test first.

[gands-antiques]

Thanks for all of the information. All of my line cords with modular connectors have two conductors  (red & green).  Will it work without the yellow conductor?


Thanks,
Gary   

[gands-antiques]

The transmitter had a large build up on the plate (approx 1" dia) in the center (behind the screw on cup and I removed it 

[unbeldi]

Thanks for all of the information. All of my line cords with modular connectors have two conductors  (red & green).  Will it work without the yellow conductor?


Thanks,
Gary

Using the telephone line directly would  be only for continuity testing, not a permanently working configuration.
You would connect two wires from the line to the yellow and green in the diagram.

From my diagram you should see that the hookswitch connects its three contacts together in the center, creating a closed loop from yellow through the transmitter (TX), through the switch, through the receiver (RX) and out the green wire.

For proper operation, the stick needs a subset and for that you connect the three wires as annotated in the pictures to the subset. I think you've done this before for other telephones.


I don't understand what you mean by build-up.   Did you take pictures?

[gands-antiques]

No, I didn't take any pictures of it.

The buildup was of a porous material (like dirt) that was built up in a cone shape just inside the hole where the transmitter cup screws in. I've never seen anything like it.  It was about 1/8" thick (high)

[gands-antiques]

No, I didn't take any pictures of it.

The buildup was of a porous material (like dirt) that was built up in a cone shape just inside the hole where the transmitter cup screws in. I've never seen anything like it.  It was about 1/8" thick (high)

Good  news unbeldi...

I connected the line cord where you said to and the phone is working. The hook switch is working properly, the phone has a dial tone and it is receiving calls and transmitting very clear and crisp.

I really appreciate all of your help!!

Thanks,
Gary