E-1 handset pin-wrench sets

[Bill]

E-1 handsets can be tough to disassemble. The techniques described in this forum often work, but not always. I broke two E-1 handsets trying to disassemble them with strap wrenches, and vowed it would never happen again. I developed a pair of pin wrenches, the tool used by Western Electric workers. They fit the little holes in the sides of the E-1 pieces, and enable them to be unscrewed more easily and securely.

I am offering these sets (two wrenches) for sale for $50 per set, including shipping by Priority Mail anywhere in the US. A bit more to Canada. For other destinations, we can talk, but in any case, the cost is actual shipping cost. If you are interested, drop me a PM.

Bill

[Bill]

Just to keep up to date on this topic, I am now on Rev 3 of these wrenches. The changes are at the working end, to make it easier in situations where the holes in the opposing handset pieces are close together. It happens only occasionally, but it happens.

If you have an older set, and would like to update them, I will do so at no charge except shipping. Let me know.

Bill

[wds]

I recently tried to buy an authentic Western Electric E1 wrench from Ebay, and the price came close to $100 - can't remember the exact price.  And that was for qty 1.  So I purchased a set of these wrenchs just last week.  They work perfectly, and I have two wrenches instead of just one.  I would highly recommend these wrenches for anyone working on the E1 handset.  Now I'm cruising Ebay for a corroded handset so I can give these wrenches a good workout!  Thanks Bill!

[kleenax]

Just be very careful when using these "original type" pin-style E1 tools. If the handset is corroded and stuck, the pins will slip out of the holes while under pressure and put a BIG scratch (or worse) on your (previously) nice-looking E1!

If it feels like the E1 component won't come apart peacefully, work some penetrating oil in there around the aluminum threads and wait awhile; you then might be able to get it to turn.

It was for this reason that I searched out the little Sloan strap wrenches: for when these E1 handset tools wouldn't work.

[Greg G.]

I recently tried to buy an authentic Western Electric E1 wrench from Ebay, and the price came close to $100 - can't remember the exact price.  And that was for qty 1. 

I think I saw that one.  It was a little rusted and had some sort of doo-dad that looked like a counter-weight or something on it?

[Greg G.]

Just be very careful when using these "original type" pin-style E1 tools. If the handset is corroded and stuck, the pins will slip out of the holes while under pressure and put a BIG scratch (or worse) on your (previously) nice-looking E1!

If it feels like the E1 component won't come apart peacefully, work some penetrating oil in there around the aluminum threads and wait awhile; you then might be able to get it to turn.

It was for this reason that I searched out the little Sloan strap wrenches: for when these E1 handset tools wouldn't work.

Exactly.  I've found that if the caps are stuck hard, the original type wrenches will only slip and gouge the cup or threads.  My latest E1 acquisition's spit cup would not come off for love, money, or pin wrenches, or anything else for that matter (I did try).  It was cracked to begin with, I ended up busting it off.  Turns out it was "welded" to the threads with mold, nothing would have loosened it.

[cihensley@aol.com]

That "doo-dad" is probably (I did not see the eBay listing) the wrench locking device. When it is slipped tight, the pins should not slip out as described by kleenax.

Chuck

[wds]

Here it is.  The price was $70 - funny how my brain rounded that off to $100.  That "weight" I think is the adjustment so the wrench clamps down on the ring, or cup, or transmitter.  They are different sizes, so the wrench seems to adjust. 

[kleenax]

That "doo-dad" is probably (I did not see the eBay listing) the wrench locking device. When it is slipped tight, the pins should not slip out as described by kleenax.
Chuck

Yes, that IS the locking device, but they can still "slip out"; trust me on this. It's called "bakelite-destruction" !

[Bill]

OK, folks, let's not let this get heated. There will always be pro-pin-wrench people and anti-pin-wrench people, and that's OK. Having had a bad experience, I was one of the anti- crowd, which is why I decided to develop my own. Based on a lot of experience, and some failures, let me make some comments.

First of all, ONE wrench isn't going to do anyone any good. You are trying to disassemble TWO parts, and you need to get a wrench on both. If you use one pin wrench and one of something else (like a strap wrench), it is an invitation to concentrate on one and let the other one slip. I'm not sure what the single-wrench ebay auction was all about, but I would stay away from it.,

Second, if the holes in your E-1 parts have already been chipped or deformed, then it is easy for the pins to slip, even with a proper tool. Deformed holes can easily be the result of  using a cobbled-up tool such as a nail, for example (done that – don't do it!) So it is up to you to examine the holes before putting a pin wrench to them.

Third, the holes in an E-1 part are not very deep. If you relax the pressure on the wrench enough to allow the wrench to open even 1/16 of an inch, the pins will slip. It is IMPERATIVE to keep pressure on the wrench at every moment. If you get caught up in trying to twist the wrench, it is easy to relax the closing pressure for an instant, and you are done.

As a follow up to this, the ebay wrench pictured above has some kind of holder or clip on it, which is apparently intended to keep the wrench closed. I would never trust this, especially on an old, worn wrench.

As a second follow-up to this, the pins in the wrench must be long enough to drop completely into the holes. The photo of the ebay wrench clearly shows that the lower pin (at least) was poorly made, and has not been turned down far enough to allow the pin's entire shank to drop into the hole.

I own two of the wrenches shown in the ebay auction photo. I don't like them much, for a lot of reasons. (Anyone want to buy them?) Between these wrenches, and the ones that I developed, I have accumulated a lot of experience with pin wrenches. I always urge anyone with a stuck E﷓1 to try every other approach first. I have tried every one described on this forum, and in my experience, the only one that really works is a hair dryer followed by strap wrenches on the heated parts. Your experience may differ, of course, but if you try all the approaches, and none of them work, you are left with pin wrenches. (I note that the telephone company maintenance and repair guys probably didn't have a hair dryer, and used the pin wrenches first, not last.)

At one point, I was left with pin wrenches on an E-1 handset which had glue on the threads. (Post #88 here http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=27.msg65151#msg65151)
Very carefully applied, the wrenches worked, when nothing else did.

So by all means, use pin wrenches, or don't use them, according to your own preferences. It is up to each person to make his own choice.

Bill

[Bill]

I recently found a small stash of the wrenches shown in the first post in this thread. I upgraded them with a screw clamp so they can't relax and slip. You can now see them in my ad in the For Sale section at

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=27353.0

Bill

[Bill]

Decided to add a picture of the New Improved Version of the handset pin wrenches. The wrench bows are springy steel - you pull the arms apart by hand, just enough to properly place the pins in the holes, and release. Then tighten the screw clamp to hold the pins in place, and things are bullet-proof. As shown, I sell these as a pair.

Bill