Kellogg hookswitch, WE 500 Network... compatible?

[Nilsog]

I'm working on restoring a Kellogg telephone box which was buried outside for many years. Almost all the components are shot, but the hookswitch (the part I REALLY need) looks fine. What I plan on doing to get by until I can find proper parts is sticking a 500 base in behind the faceplate in the box and connecting the kellogg hookswitch to it.

Question is,the Kellogg switch has 3 wires and two terminals, the 500 switch has like 7 wires coming out of it. So the help is need is... Can this work, and if it does, what terminals to I hook the kellogg switch to?

This is the kellogg hookswitch-

[Nilsog]

I forgot to mention that the network is a 425B.

[Phonesrfun]

But what are you trying to put this in?  "Kellogg telephone box" is a little broad. Depending on what you are trying to accomplish, the switch would likely work, but I think we need more info.

[poplar1]

Not sure that I understand what you are doing---is it a wood wall phone that you are trying to use parts from a K500 instead of the original parts? In any case, appears there are more than 3 contacts on the Kellogg switch, but  look for two contacts that will close (make contact) when the receiver is off hook (in use).

Then, use those two contacts to interrupt dial tone. The two line wires connect to L1 and L2 on the 425B. The switch connects to L2 and C. Run a piece of wire (jumper) from L1 to RR. Connect the receiver to GN and R. Connect the Transmitter to B and R. This is assuming that you are not going to have a dial.

If you are using a dial, then connect the pulsing contacts to F and RR and move the jumper wire from RR to F.

[Nilsog]

Im putting them in this:





(This is the faceplate inside before I cleaned it up)


This box came from a friend of mine. His grandfather worked for Canadian Pacific Railroad, and that's where he got this. He had two-- this one was left outside and eventually became buried and full of water, thus everything inside was destroyed, except the hookswitch (hopefully). A 500 base will fit inside the box behind the faceplate, the hookswitch is attached to the faceplate as well and there is also a hole for a dial (if you wouldn't mind giving me some guidance there as well, I plan on hooking up a 5J dial... will need to know where the wires go for that too)

I'm putting the whole base of the 500 in because the network is riveted. I planned on using double sided industrial tape to secure it in the box, as I don't want to drill the box.

The handset and cord were trashed, I planned on using an F1 until I could find a replacement.

[poplar1]

With dial:

Line ("tip" and "ring") to L1 and L2 on network.
Jumper wire from L1 to F on network.
Switch to L2 and C on network.
Jumper from Y on 5J dial to F on network.
Jumper from BK on 5J dial to RR on network.
One side of receiver to W on dial
Other side of receiver to R on network.
Jumper from BB on dial to GN on network.
Transmitter to B and R on network.

Ringer: one ringer wire to L1; other wire to K. Jumper from L2 to A.
(Capacitor in network may not be large enough for this ringer, in which case you can add additional 0.5 uf capacitor in parallel with network capacitor (i.e. to A and K).

Just remember that the basic circuit for a 425 network is that the input is C and RR and the output is GN (receiver), B (transmitter) and R (common trans. and rec). The temminals L1, L2 and G are not connected to anything inside the network.

[Nilsog]

Thank you! I'll give it a shot and let you know how it goes.

[Nilsog]

results!

The hookswitch works, but I'm not getting any sound from the receiver. I hooked up my test set to L1 and L2 and I know it breaks dialtone, and the dial works as well as I called my cell from it. The transmitter works too... I wondered if it might be that the F1 only had 3 conductors, so I tried a G1 and got the same results, even double checked the connections and they are exactly as you put.

So why can't I hear anything?

[Phonesrfun]

Possibly several reasons.  The receiver of an F1 handset should be connected to the red and white wires in the handset cord.  The receiver element should be making contact with the springy contacts.  The receiver element could be bad, and the handset cord could be bad.  That should get you started.

[Nilsog]

The F1 is the older model where there are just 3 screws in the transmitter end, everything is kosher and this handset worked before I disconnected it to use for this project. The G1 had 4 conductor cord and I even checked the color of the wires to make sure each set went to transmitter and receiver. Same effect.

[Phonesrfun]

With the F1 handset, you only need 3 wires because the red is the common for both the transmitter and receiver.  Black is transmitter only, and white is receiver only.

[Phonesrfun]

Did you do the jumper wire between BB on the dial and GN on the network?

[Nilsog]

Yes on the jumper from BB to GN. Let me hook the F1 back up again and see if I might have done it wrong.

[Phonesrfun]

So the white handset wire should go to W on the dial
The Black handset wire should go to B on the network
The red handset wire should go to R on the network

[Nilsog]

Ok, instead of hooking white to the dial like I did before I hooked it to B and it works perfectly.

So the phone is not totally operational! Thank you guys for the help, it is much appreciated. I couldn't have done it without you!