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Anyone into old lanterns?

Started by TelePlay, June 18, 2012, 12:00:31 AM

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AE40FAN

#45
Wow!  I cannot even believe It's the same lantern.   Some small traces of rust still left in some of the crevices that I hope will polish out with fine steel wool and brasso.  I'll know next time to soak it a bit longer in the Molasses bath.  There is 1 issue with this lantern.  There seems to be a very tiny pin hole prick in the bottom and it leaks because of it.   I have a welder friend and I am hoping he can patch it.  Thanks for all your advice Terry!

AE40FAN

S-7-32.  Made at the Syracuse factory 7/1932.

TelePlay

#47
Quote from: AE40FAN on January 26, 2016, 08:29:52 PM
I'll know next time to soak it a bit longer in the Molasses bath.  There is 1 issue with this lantern.  There seems to be a very tiny pin hole prick in the bottom and it leaks because of it.   I have a welder friend and I am hoping he can patch it.

Very nice results! It is simply amazing what molasses in water will do to clean up these tin plate lanterns. That is one heck of a nice looking lantern, and only $5 at that.

You can put it back into the molasses bath several times. One of my lanterns spent a week in the bath taking it out every two days to scour it with a Brillo pad, rinse it off, inspect it and if still not clean, back into the same bath. Steel wool with Brasso may wear through the tin plate, or remove the patina. The image below shows a very dirty and rusty Dietz before and after several molasses baths. The patina is not uniform but it is original to the state of the lantern when taken out of service. I did nothing to the surface after cleaning other than a once over polish with Noxon 7 Metal Polish, spraying it with a thin coat of gloss lacquer and then taking down the lacquer a bit using a light touch with 0000 steel wool (to keep moisture in the air off the surface). These are 70+ year old lanterns so a little character plus the natural patina gives it that look of what it was back in the day when used every day and cleaned every day after use. It was when they were put away into long term storage that they grew crud, which it appears molasses eats away quite well.

===============================

As for the hole in the fuel font, this is what W.T. Kirkman, a commercial dealer on Dietz lanterns suggests at their web site (scroll down about half way to question 9). I'm not sure if welding or brazing would work - that would leave a heat mark along with the weld. This internal coating method would seem to leave the exterior original or visually unchanged.

http://www.lanternnet.com/faqs.htm


"QUESTION 9:   How do I stop a tubular lantern from leaking from the tank?

(NOTE:  Take all safety precautions, use gloves, safety glasses, etc.)

ANSWER:  Remove the burner and fuel cap, and empty the oil completely.  If the inside of the tank is rusted and full of crud, drop a 1' piece of "Sash" chain into the tank and pour in one cup of white vinegar.  Swish the vinegar and chain around to knock down the heaviest rust or crud.  Drain the tank, and allow to dry in the sun, or use a blow dryer on low to completely evaporate all of the vinegar.   Remove the chain and make sure that there is nothing left in the tank like a piece of wick.  If there are visible holes in the tank, use masking tape to cover them.   Put on a pair of disposable gloves, then use a funnel to carefully pour into the tank about 2 teaspoons of  U.S. Standard "POR-15" Gas Tank Sealer to coat the entire inside.  Rotate the lantern to thoroughly coat both the bottom and sides of the inside of the tank.  If you get any sealer on the fuel spout or burner cup be sure to clean it off.  After the sealer cures in a few days, another coat of sealer can be added if the condition of the tank warrants it.  Let the lantern cure for one week, remove the masking tape and put the lantern back into service.  This method of re-sealing will usually last the life of the lantern.

NOTE:  If the lantern leaks only from the crimp at the bottom edge, exterior grade marine spar varnish can be used to seal a weeping tank.  Use 1 to 2 teaspoons and allow to dry for one week before refilling with oil.

Copyright © 1997 - 2011   W.T. Kirkman  All Rights Reserved"


"Copyrighted Text by W.T. Kirkman Used With Permission, Courtesy of www.lanternnet.com "

19and41

When the pinhole was mentioned, that POR-15 immediately came to mind.  They make a good product.
"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic."
— Arthur C. Clarke

AE40FAN

John! Sorry, for some reason reason I called you Terry...   It is a very Tiny Pinhole at the bottom underside of the tank.   I'll look into your suggestion.  Thanks again.

Doug Rose

I took John's advice and last week dropped this in the molasses bath. I left it in for 2.5 days, took it out and dried it off. This morning I removed the dried on brown hue of the molasses and polished it with Howard's Liquid Wax. I am very happy with the result. I couldn't sell this on eBay for $40 before, now it is a keeper.....Doug

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301844620951?ssPageName=STRK:MEUNSOLD:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1560.l2649

Kidphone

TelePlay

Very nice, Doug. Glad it turned plug well for you. Back in the day, some used coca cola syrup to take rust off of pipes. Molasses must be similar in that it removes dirt and corrosion from these old lanterns.

Can you light it up? Or just for display as it?

Doug Rose

Hey John....for me, it is just for display....thanks for your help, I am more than happy with it...Doug
Kidphone

19and41

"Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic."
— Arthur C. Clarke

Doug Rose

#54
It certainly is....looks much better in person....thanks to Telplay John....I am very happy....Doug
Kidphone

Mr. Bones

Remarkable restoration, Doug!

I remember that lantern, and am delighted to see it looking so young, and spry!

Unfortunately, a soaking, even for many days, in molasses would not make me any prettier! ;D

Have a great weekend, the both of you!

Bonedaddy
Sláinte!
   Mr. Bones
      Rubricollis Ferus