Watts Nickel Plating

[dencins]

Has anyone done bright Watts Nickel plating on brass at home?

My needs are occasional and the local plating companies seem only interested in volume work.  Individual piece prices I have been given are more than the value of finished item.

I spoke with Caswell using a solid back transmitter faceplate as an example of the parts.  They told me the piece was too big for Plug n Plate ($33 plus shipping) and I would need the bigger kit ($200 plus shipping).   

I have been researching the process.  The books I have found are written for commercial plating and it is difficult to find information for a specific type of plating.  Taking ideas from what I have found so far it seems an old crock pot will work as a plating tank and maintain the heat needed (140 degrees F).  A battery charger will provide the needed current (12 volts dc).  This leaves the Watts solution and anodes to find.  Again Caswell carries them but they are expensive from them.  Caswell wants $30 for an anode but I have found smaller anodes at other places for $8.  I suspect the same will be true of the Watts solution.   

Any suggestions?

Dennis

[Dan/Panther]

Dennis;
I use the Caswell system, and posted a shot of the replated finger stop, chrome over brass. It worked great. The anode would be very easy to make. All it is is apiece of SS that you wrap a piece of cloth around the end,  and then dip in the solution. Then just rub on the part. The anode connects to the Negative, The positive connects to the part. It only requires about 4 volts 12 would most likely burn the part. If you get the anode too close to the part, meaning not enough clothe padding, it will make the part turn Black where it touches. Just going over it again fixes it.
I can post some photos if you like. The solution is what I wish I could come up with.
I plan to re-plate the gongs on my WE wall phone, and also the bulldog transmitter housing. If you are careful I don't think size will matter that much, I  mean I wouldn't attempt a bumper, But small hand held parts are just time consuming.

D/P

[Jim Stettler]

Here is an article about plating a SC Oilcan Candlestick.
http://www.telephonecollectors.org/singwire/nickel/nickel.htm

Steve brought it to a show when it was done, It looked very nice.
He did the plating with at home kit.
Jim

[dencins]

Dennis;
I use the Caswell system, and posted a shot of the replated finger stop, chrome over brass. It worked great. The anode would be very easy to make. All it is is apiece of SS that you wrap a piece of cloth around the end,  and then dip in the solution. Then just rub on the part. The anode connects to the Negative, The positive connects to the part. It only requires about 4 volts 12 would most likely burn the part. If you get the anode too close to the part, meaning not enough clothe padding, it will make the part turn Black where it touches. Just going over it again fixes it.
I can post some photos if you like. The solution is what I wish I could come up with.
I plan to re-plate the gongs on my WE wall phone, and also the bulldog transmitter housing. If you are careful I don't think size will matter that much, I  mean I wouldn't attempt a bumper, But small hand held parts are just time consuming.

D/P

Dan

I think I might try the Caswell Nickel Plug n Plate even though they told me I should use the other product.  I only want to do the front of the faceplate which is less area than the cup.

When you plated the fingerstop did you remove the old plate first or did you overplate it?  Why did you decide on chrome rather than nickel?

Dennis

[dencins]

Here is an article about plating a SC Oilcan Candlestick.
http://www.telephonecollectors.org/singwire/nickel/nickel.htm

Steve brought it to a show when it was done, It looked very nice.
He did the plating with at home kit.
Jim

Jim

Thanks.  I located a place (Antique Electronic Supply) that sells the product (Texas Plating Supplky Co) that Steve used.  Both are the same idea but Caswell includes the DC power source which the other does not.  If Caswell does not work out then I will try the other.

Dennis

[foots]

  I'm glad this has come up, I'm going to need a kit to do some of the parts on my Victor 500 series adding machine. I had a link for a plating kit made for old typewriters that I'll post if I can find it.

[Wallphone]

There is a very good book that was published by a telephone friend "down under" titled "Telephone Talk" by Dave Dockray. See > http://www.telephonecollecting.org/talk.html <. Chapter 23 is titled "DIY Nickel Plating". Dave accomplishes this task with four plastic buckets and a car battery, along with a couple of nickel anodes and the plating solution (electrolyte bath). I'm sure that you could find this information at your local library.
Dougpav

[Dan/Panther]

Dennis;
The reason I chromed instead of nickel, I guess at the time it just seemed the simpler choice. I don't recall now if it was cost or what. I guess I figured shiny was shiny. Seems though they mentioned copy chrome took less prep, and could cover small scratches, without rechroming the entire piece.
As far as the finger stop, I used 800 grit paper, to remove the old shine, then polished it up a bit, then replated with Caswells copy chrome. I finished it off by polishing with brasso. It really looks great in person.

D/P

[dencins]

Here is what I have found out so far:

I had an Online Chat with Caswell.  I used the faceplate for a solid back transmitter (3" diameter nickel plated brass) as my example and asked if I could plate it with Plug n Plate kit ($33).  They recommended using the Regular Plating Kit (smallest $200) due to the size.

I joined an electroplating forum and asked the same question specific to nickel over brass.  A couple of people felt the Plug n Plate would work but most did tank plating so they did not comment.  I did get some recommendations:

1.  Preparation was most important.
2.  Strip off old nickel and polish to a mirror finish before plating.
3.  Overplating nickel was not a good idea for various reasons.
4.  Old nickel can be sanded off but Metal X B929 was the most recommended stripper for nickel.  This is sold by Caswell - the smallest size is $26 plus shipping.
5.  Nickel plating uses about 4.5 vdc so an automotive battery charger with the voltage stepped down works for small volume just as well as transformers in the kits.
6.  The stripping chemical works between 120 degreesF to 150degreesF.  Nickel tank plating is done at the same temperature.
7.  Stripping solution needs to be agitated.  Most popular way is to use an aquarium air pump to create bubbles in the solution.
8.  Two alternatives were given for a plating tank.  One is an old crock pot and the other is a steel or stainless steel pot on a heating plate.  Both methods control the solution temperature.
9.  Muriatic acid is used as an activator before plating nickel.
10.  One person said Plug n Plate can be used as tank plating.  Use the wand as the anode and attach the cathode to the part.  Raise the solution temperature just like regular tank plating.

Plating History – Watts nickel has been used since 1916.  The process was plate and polish.  In the mid-1940's brighteners were added to reduce the need for post plate polishing.  Nickel plating solutions today have brighteners already added.  

I have hand sanded the nickel off on faceplate which is difficult and messy.  I will be getting some Metal X B929.

Since I have an old auto battery charger and an old crock pot, I am considering getting the Plug n Plate solution and wand to build a poor man's tank process.

Dennis

[Dan/Panther]

Dennis;
The Caswell system uses a wall wart for power. I think it's 2.4 volts. 2 penlight batteries will work.
D/P