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What is this Payphone that came in a recently purchased telephone booth?

Started by zzfudge, March 20, 2019, 10:03:59 AM

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zzfudge

I am hoping to have the phone just make calls. I don't have any interest in the coin function. Any advice on cleaning/improving the 8-pin connection between the housing and the board itself?

Texas1880

Quote from: Payphone installer on April 15, 2019, 10:50:53 AM
Depends on weather the Teltronics board was post pay or prepay on how it operates. since there appears to be no way left to recognize coin presence, I would assume that the circuit was modified to fake coin presence. Try reversing the polarity going into the board. If that does not work I would remove it throw it away and get the older guts.

Couldn't they just put in a 101a coil and matching condenser and wire it up like a 302? Or even easier, just use a 425 network ?

rdelius

I wired many paystations with the teletronics board.Make sure the upper housing is wired as an AE LPC 82 .Make sure that both switch hook contacts make when off hook.Dont worry about the 5th contact that breaks.there  are several wires coming out of the bottom of the circuit board. 2 might have to be wired togather to compete the circuit. AE 3 slot paystations do not need to be rewired with new guts to act as a telephone with  no coins required .Most of the time you got dial tone first with no coins required.

Dan/Panther

Noah;

Looking at the photo attached, it appears the contacts are being held open by that screw.

D/P


The More People I meet, The More I Love, and MISS My Dog.  Dan Robinson

rdelius

That screw is supposed to keep the pin that the hook rotates on in place

Texas1880

Quote from: zzfudge on April 15, 2019, 11:19:50 AM
I am hoping to have the phone just make calls. I don't have any interest in the coin function. Any advice on cleaning/improving the 8-pin connection between the housing and the board itself?

I'm not an expert,but I'd bet if you simply expoxied a 425b network to the base, and wired in a matching bell ringer from a 500 set, wired it all in, it would work fine.

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=21154.msg215993#msg215993

Dan/Panther

Quote from: rdelius on April 15, 2019, 08:57:06 PM
That screw is supposed to keep the pin that the hook rotates on in place

The length seems too long. Could it have been replaced with a longer screw, and maybe the position of the contacts to the shaft was not correct when the screw was tightened the contacts were misaligned.

D/P

The More People I meet, The More I Love, and MISS My Dog.  Dan Robinson

HarrySmith

Harry Smith
ATCA 4434
TCI

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"

Stan S

Mr. Fudge

Listen to what rdelius is telling you.
Hey Rob.
Hope all is well.

The first thing I would do is make sure the two screws that mount the hookswitch are tight.
They have a habit of loosening up. When that happens the tension on the blades is lost
and they do not make contact.

I attached a side view of one of those hookswitchs in the off hook position.
Take a close look at the contacts on your hookswitch from the left side.
The contact of the blades should be identical to the picture.
Good luck.



I have removed your comment about advice. Please keep your posts in a positive manner.
This is becoming an increasing problem, a very alarming issue, and will no longer be tolerated.
I believe the advice you were referring to, was pointing out the same thing you suggested. That the contacts had shifted out of place when the screw was replaced.

Dan



Texas1880

zzfudge just wants it to work. A 425 network and a trimline ringer could easily be mounted in a few minutes and it would absolutely work.

zzfudge

I opened the dial housing to get a better look. With the housing attached, turning the dial even slightly allows the third (furthest right) tab to make contact and that brings a dial tone. Once the dial is released and spins back to rest, the tabs separate and the tone disappears. Should those tabs be separate? If so, how can I get a dial tone otherwise? Is there anything to do with the fourth screw connector that has nothing attached right now?

HowardPgh

Quote from: zzfudge on April 22, 2019, 10:55:28 AM
I opened the dial housing to get a better look. With the housing attached, turning the dial even slightly allows the third (furthest right) tab to make contact and that brings a dial tone. Once the dial is released and spins back to rest, the tabs separate and the tone disappears. Should those tabs be separate? If so, how can I get a dial tone otherwise? Is there anything to do with the fourth screw connector that has nothing attached right now?
My guess is that the dial is wired wrong.  The tabs you mention are the muting contacts for the receiver.  Maybe the wires should be on the pulsing contacts instead since they remain closed when the dial is at rest.  I don't know the proper color cor code of which wire goes to what contact.
Howard

rdelius

The wires are hard to tell in the photo. The normal color code would be BK and WH for pulse and shunt GN ,OR and RED in that order Your dial is a modified SATT dial with the marker cam and satt contact removed