The Leichs have arrived.

[LarryInMichigan]

The ringer in the 615 is definitely a frequency ringer.  It may have a frequency printed on it somewhere.  If it is a relatively low frequency (like 30Hz), you might be able to coax a ring out of it by moving the gongs closer to the clapper and sliding the weighted clapper to the end of the arm.  Does the phone have a tube (valve) in it?

I don't know if those were supplied with cloth cords, but the other model was.

Larry

[Stephen Furley]

No tube; what was the function of them; I've seen them on circuit diagrams occasionally.  The clapper doesn't even try to move, and it's very stiff to move by hand.  The windings seem ok.  I've disconnected one end, and connected it directly to a magneto, but the clapper doesn't feel like it's trying to move whatever speed I crank the handle at.

The only problem with overhauling the dial is that I now realise that the other one is running a bit slow, so I'll have to look at that one as well.

A few days ago I read a document somewhere about how to identify different models of AE dials, but I can't find it know; you don't know where it is, do you?

[LarryInMichigan]

I think that the tube was used to control ringing on party lines, so that only the phone of the party being called would ring.

On a frequency ringer, the clapper arm is usually attached to a reed.  The reed and clapper arm weight are arranged so that the ringer has a specific natural frequency.  The arm will only move a significant amount at the designed frequency.  The phone company would supply a ringing voltage at a different frequency for each subscriber on a party line.  My messing with the reed and clapper, it is sometimes possible to change the behavior so that the arm might move more at a wider range of frequencies.

I do not know how to identify the different models of AE dials.

Larry

[Stephen Furley]

The ringer in the 615 is definitely a frequency ringer.  It may have a frequency printed on it somewhere.  If it is a relatively low frequency (like 30Hz), you might be able to coax a ring out of it by moving the gongs closer to the clapper and sliding the weighted clapper to the end of the arm.  Does the phone have a tube (valve) in it?

I don't know if those were supplied with cloth cords, but the other model was.

Larry

I've had another look at the ringer; there's something unreadable printed on one of the coils, and a '50' printed on the armature, which I'd missed.  Maybe it's a 50 Hz. ringer.  I'll try putting 50 Hz at a suitable Voltage on it and see if it rings.

The very thick coiled plastic handset cord on the 615 is in good condition, apart from being very dirty, and I think it's original, so I'll keep it, and probably add a traditional round plastic line cord.  Neither of the cords on the 90 is original, and they're both in poor condition, so I'll order a pair of new cloth cords for it.  If I remove the grommet and squeeze the cords together so that they're both slightly 'D' shaped then I think they'll just about go through the hole.

[paul-f]

A few days ago I read a document somewhere about how to identify different models of AE dials, but I can't find it know; you don't know where it is, do you?

Try these documents...

http://www.telephonecollectors.info/index.php?searchword=997-300-500&ordering=&searchphrase=all&Itemid=1&option=com_search

[LarryInMichigan]

If there is a "50" on the ringer, there's a very strong likelihood that it is a 50 Hz ringer.  If you apply about 90V at 50Hz, it should ring, if you supply enough current.

Larry

[Stephen Furley]

Still no ring.  110 V at 50 Hz. gives a current of about 30 mA through the coils, but the clapper doesn't move.  I'm busy for the rest of this week; I'll take another look at the weekend.

[Stephen Furley]

The ringer on the 615 is a 50 Hz. one; it's ringing on that frequency now.

I've ordered new line cords for both, and a handset cord for the 90; should be here in a week or two.

Both 'phones have had a quick polish with Greygate Paste, Polishing No. 5, the same stuff that the GPO used to use on their Bakwlite 'phones.  The 615 looks much better for it.  The small crack in one corner which I repaired is difficult to see now.  The 90 is much more difficult to polish because everything except the ringer is mounted inside the shell.  It's also covered in a thick layer of something black.  It's not paint, possibly many layers of black boot polish.  There's something similar on the old WE handset which used to be on my SC 1243.  It disolves in the solvent in the polishing paste to form a thick greasy black mess which gets everywhere.  If you can imagine melting a black lipstick and covering the 'phone with that, that's roughly what it's like.  The bakelite seems to be in good condition underneath it.  I think I'll have to dismantle it and give the Bakelite parts a wash in something like petrol before polishing them.

As you can see, I tried turning the base round the other way, but it didn't ring properly like that, the wires stretch across the gongs and dampen them.  The earpiece volume is also rather low on the 90, but it's usable.

[LarryInMichigan]

As you can see, I tried turning the base round the other way, but it didn't ring properly like that, the wires stretch across the gongs and dampen them.

Can the base plate be turned so that the ringer will remain in the same orientation relative to the phone?

Larry

[Wallphone]

Stephen, You mention Greygate Paste, Polishing No.5 and Dave Dockray from Australia mentions in his book "Telephone Talk" No. 2 Car-Polishing Compound and Autosol Metal Polish (from Germany). Do you know what the equivalents are on this side of the pond? I remember finding one of the polishing pastes on eBay in the U.K. before but the shipping costs are a killer. And I agree with Larry, I think you can rotate the cage without rotating the bottom plate.
Doug Pav

[Stephen Furley]

Stephen, You mention Greygate Paste, Polishing No.5 and Dave Dockray from Australia mentions in his book "Telephone Talk" No. 2 Car-Polishing Compound and Autosol Metal Polish (from Germany). Do you know what the equivalents are on this side of the pond? I remember finding one of the polishing pastes on eBay in the U.K. before but the shipping costs are a killer. And I agree with Larry, I think you can rotate the cage without rotating the bottom plate.
Doug Pav

Greygate seem to be a small company based in the UK.  They have a website but it is, to say the least, minimal.

http://www.greygate.com/

Two of their products are generally available on Ebay, Plastic Polish which comes in a 100 ml plastic bottle is a creamy liquid waxy polish, which can be used on most plastics, but it does warn against using it on Cellulose Acetate, so not suitable for soft plastic 'phones.  It's widely used on acrylic, ABS, polystyrene and similar plastics.  It will take out minor scratches.  Paste Polishing No.5 was used by the GPO, and I think was formulated especially for them.  It comes in a 60 gramme tube and both the tube and the box it comes in are plain unprinted white, with a small laser printed paper label stuck on.  This suggests to me that it's only produced in small quantities.  It's designed specifically for polishing Bakelite, which it does well, but the market for it would be limited mainly to collectors of Bakelite objects.  It's mildly abrasive, ls a paste rather than a liquid, and looks rather like yellow toothpaste.  It has a slightly unpleasant smell, but it's not very strong.  The Plastic polish is certainly flammable, and I think the paste is as well; I'm not sure what the implications of this are for international shipping in small quantities.

The solvents in it are quite volatile, so you need to work quickly with it, otherwise it dries on the surface, leaving a powdery deposit.  I find it best to take a small amount, about the size of a grain of rice, or somewhat smaller, apply this to an area no larger than about 50 x 100 mm with a microfibre cloth, rub with moderate pressure, and as soon as you feel it starting to dry polish it off with a clean cloth.  The whole process takes about 15 seconds, and can be repeated as necessary.  Both of the Greygate polishes go a long way; I bought one of each on Ebay two years ago, and they're both still about half full.

Autosol is the name for a range of polishing products by Solvol, mainly intended for use on vehicles.  I'm pretty sure that the one he refers to is the metal polish in black and gold tubes, as seen here:

http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Metal_Polish.html

This is quite similar in texture to the Greygate paste.

Between 1979 and 1983 I had a car, and used this on the chrome work.  It's a good polish, at least it was then, I don't know if it's still the same now, or if the health and safety regulations have changed it.  I never tried using it on plastics, but many metal polishes do work on plastic; I've used Brasso on soft plastic.

The only American polishes which I know of are the Novus ones, but I've never used these.  They are available here, so I may try them sometime.  None of these sounds similar to the Greygate paste, which is more like a metal polish than a polish for use on thermoplastics.

The metal base of my Leich 90 seems to be firmly stuck to the bell box part.

[Wallphone]

Thanks for all the info Stephen. It's not a big deal to have the vents in the front, I kinda prefer them that way. Does the bottom felt look to be original? All the bottom plates that I have it looks like the felt is glued on around the inside perimeter so maybe some stray glue is the culprit. The Leich bottom plates don't have a retainer ring like the WE D1/202's have. I suggest leaving it as it is, no reason to take the chance on damaging the cage for something so trivial.
Doug Pav

[Stephen Furley]

Thanks for all the info Stephen. It's not a big deal to have the vents in the front, I kinda prefer them that way. Does the bottom felt look to be original? All the bottom plates that I have it looks like the felt is glued on around the inside perimeter so maybe some stray glue is the culprit. The Leich bottom plates don't have a retainer ring like the WE D1/202's have. I suggest leaving it as it is, no reason to take the chance on damaging the cage for something so trivial.
Doug Pav

I've managed to remove it and turn it round, but I still need to break apart the bad repair to the cracked corner, so I can repair it properly, I've managed to cut away most of the excess epoxy on the surface.

There's a car spares place just a couple of minutes walk from where I live, so I went there and bought a tube of Autosol this morning.  I think it's slightly different to it was when I last used it in the '80s, but it works very well on chrome and stainless steel parts.

[Stephen Furley]

The newer 'vented' style of handset doesn't really look right on my Leich 90, and it doesn't sit very well in the cradle.  One of the earlier lightweight type recently turned up on Ebay, and I won it, with the only bid.  It's in generally good condition, and both elements are present.  I should have the new cords later this week.

[LarryInMichigan]

Stephen,

How is the sound quality from the transmitter?  I have the same type of handset, and while the transmitter is quite sensitive, the frequency response is rather poor, so it make me sound like I am talking through a metal tube.  I therefore never use it because people would complain.

Larry