Ok, can anybody explain how to use an Electric Buffer? ...Correctly.
I have tried, and tried...and tried...Oh yeah... and tried.
And the only thing I can manage, is to burn the product. >:(
Or, not get any result at all. ???
What is the big secret???
And how do you know what stuff to use with it?
Quote from: RB on December 02, 2022, 04:58:35 PMOk, can anybody explain how to use an Electric Buffer? ...Correctly.
I have tried, and tried...and tried...Oh yeah... and tried.
And the only thing I can manage, is to burn the product. >:(
Or, not get any result at all. ???
What is the big secret???
And how do you know what stuff to use with it?
Well sir, it first depends on what speed your buffer runs at and what your buffing.
I use a 3400 RPM buffer for Bakelite and Tripoli rouge then white but, before I even get to the buffer I first sand the Bakelite with 180 or 220 depending on its condition then wet sand with 400, 600, 1000 and finally 2000 then buff, and I do the same with plastic also.
If I'm buffing plastic, etc. I use my 1700rpm buffer with Tripoli, Blue rouge, and then white. A lot of pressure is not needed to buff and you want to rouge your wheels lightly and clean then with a buffing rake to keep them from matting. Down ward stroke of the piece against the wheel is polishing and and upward stroke with it ids cutting.
You'll find a downloadable book on buffing online at Caswell's https://caswellplating.com/ (https://caswellplating.com/)
There is so much you need to know it's hard to tell you everything in one post, you also need the right wheels for the rouge your using, get the book and study it well.
Quote from: RB on December 02, 2022, 04:58:35 PMOk, can anybody explain how to use an Electric Buffer? ...Correctly.
And you forgot to mention not holding onto the item securely or catching an edge on the wheel with the end result being the item flying across the room, usually damaged.
RDPipes got it right. I buffed, or tried to, for a few years and got rid of my buffer.
Rotational speed is important, slower for plastic, faster for Bakelite. Diameter of the buffing wheel affects the buffing speed at the point of contact. The type of wheel (material) to use when and what buffing compounds to use with each wheel is important. Keeping the item moving so as not to melt the plastic is important. And, in the end, there are areas of a phone's plastics that can not be accessed by a buffing wheel.
I had a single speed Eastwood buffer, should have gone with the 2 speed buffer, but I see the 2 speed buffer which was about $160 is now $350 and that Eastwood has seemed to move away from plastics to metal finishing in their product lines.
https://www.eastwood.com/search/?q=plastic+buffing
There are so many variables to go through to find the right combination of buffer, wheel material, wheel size, buffing compounds and how to do it, as RDPipes said, it's really too complex to help you here.
Using a buffer to make plastic shine is an art and probably taught by those in a company who do it on a daily basis to new employees. After 3 years, I never found the right or best combination of material and equipment to do it right.
When I was a young man of 19 I worked for a chrome plater and I was one of the buffers but, really didn't learn all that much buffing metals, it was buffing other materials like woods, plastics, etc. that I learned really cause ya can't really burn metal, ya either polish it or ya don't. I figure if anyone could do it I could too and didn't give up till I got it right. It's certainly nothing you can teach someone in a few posts on a forum or blog. You either have to just do it like I did or be a good reader which I'm not, or show someone how in person. Now I can do the last one if anyone lives close enough and would be more then happy to.
I use unsewn wheels (I got mine at TAP Plastics). These have loose flaps and reduce the risk of burning, but you still need to keep moving. One for red and one for white compound.
Great topic!
Attachment and link very useful, thanks for adding those.
I'd like to see some photos of your kit please guys! :)
I have a couple of buffing wheels. Nothing special or expensive, both are just cheap home diy machines, one of which was a spur of the moment purchase which is so low powered I have never even taken it out of the box. They both came with various compounds.
I also have a couple of 'Dremel alikes' with various packets of polishing wheels. These are great for smaller pieces and nooks and crannies. One has a handy table arm to lift it's cabling off the workspace.
*I can nip over to my little workshop later and get a couple of photos to attach if anyone wants to see.
Would love to see your machines CJ, here are mine. The large RED one is my 3400rpm 3/4hp buffer, this will rip your arm off and I'm not kidding. I use skinny wheels because the faster it runs you'll find that the more surface space you're using (width of wheel) the more it wants to grab it from you.
The smaller black and red machine is home made as you can see from an old washing machine dual shaft motor 1/8 hp 1700rpm I use different size and type wheels (diameter and width) depending on the rouge and the speed I want to buff at. The String wheel on the right is only used for cleaning up and final buff and NO rouge is used on it, it was mainly used in my pipe making back then.
Thanks all for the posts. Lots to infuse.
Fab, I would like to see your Dremel stuff too, I do a lot of miniature work.
As promised here are photos of some of my polishing kit. As my little workshop is exactly that I have to pack everything away after use.
Nothing expensive or particularly special and not exactly the choice of the professional, they are just cheap and cheerful 'own brand' tools, but they do the job asked of them and I can't ask for more than that. Nothing is kept running for long periods, I tend to buff, turn machine off, check, continue. And if anything should go pop :o then I will have experienced (and hopefully learnt) what not to do for next time....
(Am liking Ron's machines very much, good idea to have them set up like that, and those stands look sturdy too. Unfortunately no room in my workshop or else I would be tempted to copy those designs and build a couple).
My 'go with' bins have various polishing pads and wheels of differing softness and material.
Well you certainly have some collection of buffing tools there CJ and much newer then anything I have.
I think the newest buffer is the big red one dated 1982, LOL! But with care most things will last a good long time as mine have and it certainly looks like you take good care of them.
Ron,
Do you use any kind of screen when you buff? If I recall correctly it makes quite a mess as the machine throws all the rouge & compound as it spins.
Quote from: HarrySmith on December 15, 2022, 08:56:46 AMRon,
Do you use any kind of screen when you buff? If I recall correctly it makes quite a mess as the machine throws all the rouge & compound as it spins.
Harry, they do throw a little that does build up on the wall behind, but thankfully its the white that is a much drier compound that doesn't stick to the wheel well or the wall and is vacuumed off easily.
The trick is NOT to over load your wheel with rouge and only use what you need. You'll learn quickly once you end up with a face and nose full of rouge. When I first used a buffer back in the late 70's for a chrome plater I worked for I had a goatee, at the end of the night I could grab a hold of it and pull it straight out and it stayed there, not to mention my complexion was a bit darker, LOL! If I learned anything there it was to use rouge sparingly.
OK. Good advice ;D
Quote from: HarrySmith on December 15, 2022, 08:56:46 AMIf I recall correctly it makes quite a mess as the machine throws all the rouge & compound as it spins.
I found the biggest source of "stuff" was the fabric thrown when raking the wheels. Very little rouge but due to raking, Lint everywhere.
Quote from: TelePlay on December 15, 2022, 02:03:05 PMI found the biggest source of "stuff" was the fabric thrown when raking the wheels. Very little rouge but due to raking, Lint everywhere.
Yeah, specially on new or cheap wheels. I have a dust collection system so I always turn it on when raking a wheel. Just part of the fun of buffing.
Quote from: RDPipes on December 15, 2022, 03:23:27 PM...I have a dust collection system so I always turn it on when raking a wheel...
Photo, and more detail please. :)
Quote from: FABphones on December 16, 2022, 01:11:44 AMPhoto, and more detail please. :)
CJ, I have duct work going to several machines in my shop that connect to a 2hp vacuum that dumps sawdust and other particles into a system that has a filter and large collection bag, one of the 4 ducts just happens to be next to the buffer. I don't have a photo of that duct but, I do have one of the collection system itself. Below are 2 photos of the system taken at different stages of my shops construction one shows the over head duct work well while the other shows the collection bag better. I'm afraid to take any better photos of the system the table saw would have to be moved and my condition won't really allow that.
I did find a photo showing the intake duct at the buffer, well its really at the shaping wheel I used when I was still making pipes but, its close enough to pull in most of the dust and lint from the buffer when I move the buffer close to it. Been meaning to run another duct to the buffer but, haven't as yet.
Thank you. What a great workspace you have. Very nicely thought out.
I'd need to knock a wall down in my little workshop in order to make even the smallest improvement... Hmmmm... 🤔
I think that is a good idea CJ. If you have to unpack & repack every tool, every time you want to use it you definitely need more space ;D
Quote from: FABphones on December 16, 2022, 12:57:52 PMThank you. What a great workspace you have. Very nicely thought out.
I'd need to knock a wall down in my little workshop in order to make even the smallest improvement... Hmmmm... 🤔
Somewhere here didn't we post photos of our shops, you'll find 4 photos of mine in a complete 360 degrees.
If I had to unpack and repack tools every time I wouldn't be in my shop most the time. I would think about purchasing a building like I did. I think it was only about $5000 for my 12foot x 20foot of course I did have to electrify it, insulate pull paneling in, and run various things like the dust collection etc. but, I was able to do it just by saving a few dollars here and there.
Quote from: RDPipes on December 16, 2022, 03:38:08 PMSomewhere here didn't we post photos of our shops...
When I saw your photo I thought we may have. The thread for my little workshop (approx 8ft 2" x 9ft 10") build is here:
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=23861
Purchasing another building is not an option, but in due course the possibility may arise to expand out a little or rebuild into another part of the stone building which contains my existing workshop.
Quote from: FABphones on December 16, 2022, 04:48:48 PMWhen I saw your photo I thought we may have. The thread for my little workshop (approx 8ft 2" x 9ft 10") build is here:
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=23861
Purchasing another building is not an option, but in due course the possibility may arise to expand out a little or rebuild into another part of the stone building which contains my existing workshop.
Believe it or not I had just about all of what's in my shop now except the dust collector and table saw in a 12' x 8' shop for several years, its just how you organize and make use of the space. I had a hall way in and out of the shop but I didn't need anymore and could just about reach everything on both sides of the shop sitting at my bench. The blank space on the wall in the 2nd photo is where the A/C unit went.