Any recommends for a good oil for the dial. At present, I am using Hoppes Gun Oil and it seems to work OK. I was using a DuPont lubricant with silicone but it seemed too messy and uncontrollable. Anything better or am I OK with this.
Howard
( A compilation (list) of oils suggested by members can be found in this reply: )
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=7899.msg124966#msg124966
Quote from: HowardPgh on November 09, 2012, 10:50:49 AM
Any recommends for a good oil for the dial.
At present, I am using Hoppes Gun Oil and it seems to work OK.
I was using a DuPont lubricant with silicone but it seemed too messy and uncontrollable.
Anything better or am I OK with this.
Howard
I use "Moebius 941 / 2 Synthetic Watch Oil" or Radio Shack's "Precision oiler with Teflon®", a teflon/fluon mix complete with a precision pen-oiler. Neither will thicken up or gum up over time.
Dave
Marvel Mystery Oil. Work like a champ. I have used it on dials for over 30 years. ...Doug
I like Dave's idea (watch oil). Also CLP is excellent, I've used it for 20+ years. A little goes a LONG way. I use needles to apply it to critical areas that only require a micro spec of oil :)
I use 90 weight differential oil, but they seem to run slow.
**Just kidding** :)
I think the watch oil is a good idea. I have used light weight machine oil from my wife's sewing machine, and that seems to be good too.
Another good candidate is Wahl Hair Clipper oil. It does not evaporate easily or get gummy. You can use it on mechanical clock mechanisms, etc. In fact, I would bet it's the same stuff sold as clock oil, but at a lower cost. A 4 oz bottle (from eBay) is inexpensive and will probably last a lifetime.
DF
Hoppes no 9 lubricating oil.
dsk
That's what i use for my phones since a year and at this time i have no problem.don't forget we lubricate gears and sewing oïl is also for gears on a sewing machine. :)
Note: Sorry, when I replied to your post, I accidentally clicked on modify instead of reply - I think I have it back as it was... D.
That's 3 for sewing machine oil. Just the right viscosity.
Quote from: Contempra on April 21, 2014, 05:26:07 PM
That's what i use for my phones since a year and at this time i have no problem.don't forget we lubricate gears and sewing oïl is also for gears on a sewing machine. :)
That is why I avoid the use of sewing machine oul. Compare the size of gears in a sewing machine to those in a dial. Automobile gear cases also have gears, but because tolerances are looser, a much heavier weight of oil is needed for them. They are much larger and are motor driven.
Also, if you open an old sewing machine, the build-up of dust is on the spots which have been oiled. Sewing machine oil is better than a lot of oils, but does dry out and collect dust. It is not the correct viscosity but close enough for the short term.
Watch oil is formulated for smaller gears with tighter tolerances, and is formulated not to collect dust. While a dial will work for a year or two without re-cleaning, watch oil will last for years.
Dave
Dave, I can tell you i have no troubles with this oïl ...I had and have yet an old rotary which i lubed with this oïl and it's not dry at all..it is lubricated since 9 years ago now and no need to be lubricated.. :) my oïl is ( huile blanche ) I don't know how to translate it but the oïl is clear like water. Anyway I use it also to lube clocks but not watches ;)
Quote from: Contempra on April 21, 2014, 06:09:50 PM
Dave, I can tell you i have no troubles with this oïl ...I had and have yet an old rotary which i lubed with this oïl and it's not dry at all..it is lubricated since 9 years ago now and no need to be lubricated.. :) my oïl is ( huile blanche ) I don't know how to translate it but the oïl is clear like water. Anyway I use it also to lube clocks but not watches ;)
Ahhh, therin lies the difference. huile blanche is white mineral oil, not the same as what is often sold as sewing machine oil here. In fact, it is often used for clocks, which makes it a lot more suitable than, for example, some standard sewing machine oils or a 3-in-One oil (paraffin base).
Personally, I will stick with clock or watch oil, as I have used it many years, and never had a problem with it. It costs more, but is sure to work.
Dave
oh !.. In that case I have a good oïl...I have two pints so it will last a long time. Yes Watch oïl is probably better than my oïl but when something is given, I can't refuse it :)..
Can't blame you, Denis!
Things that are free in life come seldom, and when they do what you need are even better!
Dave
3 in 1. Works fine all the time.
Quote from: DavePEI on April 21, 2014, 09:32:47 PM
Can't blame you, Denis!
Things that are free in life come seldom, and when they do what you need are even better!
Dave
I agree Dave :D...thank you for the nice comment.
This is a summary of the oils (in alphabetical order) used by those who posted to this topic (a few were suggested twice).
Before buying and/or using one of these oils, make sure you find the reply where it was first posted so you have a good understanding of the oil, if it will be what you want on your dials after restoration. (this list is intended to offer lubricant options, cleaning and penetrating products are not considered acceptable dial lubricants)
3 in 1 Oil
3M 08897 Silicone Lubricant (Dry Type) ( not recommended )
CRC 2-26 Contact Cleaner ( not recommended )
Hoppes No 9 Lubricating Oil
Kroon Sewing Machine Oil
Light Weight Sewing Machine Oil
Marvel Mystery Oil
Mobil 1 synthetic oil
Moebius 941 / 2 (ml) Synthetic Watch Oil (for gear teeth and gear axle bearing points)
Moebius 8300 Watch/Clock Grease (for main spring shaft raceway lubrication)
Radio Shack's "Precision Oiler with Teflon
Silicone Lubricant (Spray Types) ( not recommended )
Synthetic CLP Gun Oil
Tri-Flow with PTFE not good, dries out in a few months ( not recommended )
Wahl Hair Clipper Oil
WD-40 Penetrating Oil ( not recommended )
White Mineral Oil (Huile Blanche sewing machine oil)
Last updated 01/03/20
REF: http://navysalvage.com/dialrepair.html
Quote from: TelePlay on April 22, 2014, 09:23:02 PM
To date, this is a summary of the oils (in alphabetical order) used by those who posted to this topic (a few were suggested twice):
Hoppes No 9 Lubricating Oil
Light Weight Sewing Machine Oil
Marvel Mystery Oil
Moebius 941 / 2 Synthetic Watch Oil
Radio Shack's "Precision Oiler with Teflon
Synthetic CLP Gun Oil
Wahl Hair Clipper Oil
White Mineral Oil
3 in 1 Oil
I have learned much about the myriad variety of oils/ lubes that are usable on rotary phone dials, from this topic. Thanks to all of you for contributing your experience.
If I may interject here, I have found that a shot or two of high-quality contact cleaner, then gentle cycling of the dial never seems to hurt, prior to oiling. I use Priority 1, non-corrosive, no residue. Your mileage may vary. I hope this helps some...
Best regards!
I use sewing machine oil too, but the white kind. Huile Blanche as Denis called it. After 25 years the first bottle I bought ran out. So now I have Kroon sewing machine oil (also for use on fine mechanics).
It does not dry out or gum up after many years in my experience.
Was searching the forum for info on lubricating an AE dial and came across a post using Tri-Flow so added that to the above list. Anyone using that oil, had success or failure with that oil?
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=3042.msg40879#msg40879
EDIT: Dries out in a few months dramatically slowing dial speed - not good for rotary dials
Quote from: TelePlay on April 26, 2014, 02:48:01 AM
Was searching the forum for info on lubricating an AE dial and came across a post using Tri-Flo so added that to the above list. Anyone using that oil, had success or failure with that oil?
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=3042.msg40879#msg40879
Tri-Flo contains Teflon, and works well on complex mechanical devices that seem to need continuous lubrication. I have used it for years on my cross-cut paper shredder, and I'm convinced that the life of the cutters has been substantially lengthened. I have not tried it on a telephone dial but it seems like a reasonable product for that use.
DF
A lubricant I have used for a number of years on many different mechanisms with good results is Mobil 1 synthetic oil. I save the remainder of the oil in the jug from my oil changes and keep it in a precision oiler. It is easy to clean any excess and it is also a good rust inhibitor. I have just used it in my AE 40 dial. I also use it to lubricate electric motors with porous bearings that might become clogged from teflon additives.
Have any of you ever tried WD40? How about automatic transmission oil? I haven't used them on dials, but I would be willing to do so. I've had good luck with them on electric fan motors.
Quote from: andre_janew on January 05, 2015, 06:03:01 PM
Have any of you ever tried WD40? How about automatic transmission oil? I haven't used them on dials, but I would be willing to do so. I've had good luck with them on electric fan motors.
Never use WD-40 - it might let the dial work for a short time by virtue of washing off some of the gum on the dial, but over the long term it will attract dust. Actually, the WD in WD-40 stands for water displacement. It isn't a lubricant but a product designed to displace water from a mechanical device.
Sewing machine oil would be a better product to use if looking for something easy to find and while not your best bet, will work.
Incidentally, one of the best to use for fan motors etc. is the blue 3 in One motor oil.
Dave
I just scratched the oil I was using off of the list above
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=7899.msg124966#msg124966
Moving on to another oil, a synthetic clock oil which seems to have the same characteristics a Moebius 941/2.
If anyone else has an oil to add to the list or one to scratch, please post and I will update the above list.
I use a synthetic oil recommended for precision works. I think just about any thin oil will work. I would guess that the new light weight oils being made today have got yo be superior to what was available when the phones were originally manufactured.
D/P
I found a US source for Moebius 941 synthetic watch oil. It's not cheap ($32 plus $10 shipping for 2 ml) but it's quicker than ordering from Europe. My hope is a little will go a long way.
http://www.ofrei.com/page246.html#3281 (scroll about 1/3 down the page for used Edit/Find on the page for 941)
I've been using some of the oils on this list but haven't been happy with any of them so went looking for the expensive stuff. This thin oil suggest by some as the best will be my only hope.
The chart below is from the Moebius web site (http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/oils) showing the different types of oils by their product number. Not all oils are the same. Just a bit more information for those dealing with this part of restoration.
John .... Here's a picture of the oils I use. Are you referring to the little 2ml bottle of blue colored oil on the left ? I'm also trying the oil sitting in the bottle in the middle of the picture. The bottle on the right with the snap on, snap off plastic cap is clock grease. I use that once in a while on Western / Northern type 6 dials where the larger gear shafts run in the top and bottom gear cage plates. It helps to quiet the noise generated the type 6 dials when there's wear involved. Can't go wrong with the Moebius Synthetic oils though.
I have a telephone technician's manual printed by a Canadian Telephone Company on the east coast, and in the "General Information" part of the manual, it recommends "clock oil" to lubricate dials.
Once I have the manual scanned, I'll make in available in "PDF" form. Using clock oil, it would appear, is not a new idea.
Jeff
Jeff,
Thanks. You certainly have a better knowledge of what to use where an for what.
The oil you pointed out, on the left, is their 9010 oil which according to the Otto Frei site is "Moebius Synthetic Oil 9010 has been the standard general purpose oil in the watch industry for decades" while the same page describes 941 as " Moebius 941 developed for pallet jewels of mechanical movements is now also recommended by ETA for use on high grade quartz movements. Moebius 941, has a higher degree of oiliness than conventional synthetics and is rated a fine oil while 9415 is rated as a grease"
This site, posted also above (http://www.ofrei.com/page246.html#3281), is a great resource to finding out what each Moebius oil by number does or is used for. The 941 seems to be the finest or thinnest and therefore most penetrating of their synthetic oils. These are all geared to watches but could be used for anything. I thought buffing compounds and ultrasonic cleaning solutions were complex. Add top quality oils to that list.
I can see where 9010 or some other oil would work when a dial was taken apart but what I do, ultrasonically clean and oil, means I need an oil that penetrates and lasts. I'm hoping this 941 does that. Everything I've tried so far was too thick to deeply penetrate axle friction points.
The Moebius home page (http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en) allows one to review their oils, greases and other stuff and the Otto Frie site describes their "typical" uses.
Looking forward to your PDF file.
Here's something I've used recently: Fluid Film.
The opposition towards other lubricants seem to be either because they are dry lube (wears off in a few months), or gum up after awhile. Fluid Film doesn't gum up at all, and doesn't have any solvents, so it isn't dry lube and doesn't wear off. It's also much thicker (more oil-like consistency) than watery WD40.
It's more popular for annual rust protection on vehicle body panels and frames during northern winters; I even used it for winter prep on my truck this year!
I just used it on a #6 dial. Not only does the dial work perfectly now, but Fluid Film doesn't seem to evaporate, disappear, or run after spraying it like other lubricants, it keeps a bead of liquid around the oiling point.
To sum up:
-No solvents, silicone, or teflon
-Corrosion protection
-Does not dry out or turn gummy/tacky
-Stays liquid
-Thicker than other lubricants I've tried
-Does not run or drip easily
-Safe on plastics and rubber
I think I'll be using this for dials from now on!
don't forget, the watchmakers recommend oiling watches and mechanical clocks every 3 to 5 years. Which means that we will oil the dials of our phones in the same period . I use clock oil because it is more resistant than the simple oil for watches. I have always done this for many years without ever having problems. I have already tried watch oil, it lasts much less and dries faster than clock oil. so, I prefer clock oil. after 5 or 6 years and even a little longer, I clean and relubricate the dial and normally, even if I clean, there is no dirt, but I still clean in case ..
To add my two cents:
I have used something similar to what Christian uses, only under a different name. Made by CK, "Crow Bar"' is also a solvent free lubricant that leaves a smooth film where applied. Unlike other aerosol spray oils, this one foams a bit on contact and clings very well even upside down. Only down side is it tends to be a bit messy to apply right from the can, so I spray into a small plastic cup and use a Q-tip to dab it where i want it. Both this product and 3 in 1 have given me good results. Some phones are on year four and have yet to need re-oiling.
Quote from: Babybearjs on May 29, 2011, 04:44:57 PM
Dennis, I picked up some silicone spray and used it on a AE 24 dial. at first, I thought it did'nt work because the unit was still sticky. then about 10 minutes later, the dial started working fine... is silicone spay good to use, or is watch oil better? I normally have used WD-40 for everything and this is the first time I used silicone. what doe the "experts" recommend?? John
In my opinion, silicone spray is ideal for lubricating a rotary dial, as long as it's the good stuff, i.e., "3M 08897 Silicone Lubricant (Dry Type)". There may be other brands that are fine too, but I know that 3M's stuff is spectacular. The carrier fluid will dry on its own eventually, or, as per the instructions on the can, you can wipe it off with a dry cloth. The silicone is left behind and it adheres aggressively to pretty much anything, providing lubrication that lasts a very long time. It's best to clean the mechanism first with electrical contact cleaner though and let it dry. Also, keep the silicone spray away from the leaf switch contacts. It might not prevent them from working, but it certainly won't help them, because silicone isn't a conductor.
Compared to oil, silicone is slicker, adheres far better/longer, and is "dry", so it doesn't catch dust/dirt. I used it on a 9C dial recently (after cleaning with contact cleaner and a toothpick to get the grime out of the gear teeth; I didn't disassemble the mechanism) and the dial is significantly smoother and quieter now, and still works perfectly. I've attached a before and after recording of the sound of the dial.
So what kind of luck are you all having with the lubricants mentioned above. I've also used Hoppes 9 in the past but am thinking about ordering some watch or clock oil.
I've used Fluid Film on vehicles and various items before. It's lanolin based instead of petroleum based. It also smells bad, kinda like the old smelly moldy 302s. Would be a good combination for a smelly phone.
Based on reading the thread, I'm leaning toward synthetic clock oil. Good idea?
I just use WD-40 on mine, no problems....
Same here.
Just do not spray it out of it's pressure pack straight into the phone, it would spill all over.
I spray it into a small cup and then use a tiny paint brush to apply it where it is needed. WD40 is a good cleaner and solvent, but also leaves behind a lubricant film that will not gum up.
I never had issues with WD40 being aggressive on plastic. Also it is the least smelling product among it's competitors.
Most dials I had will work fine without any oil when clean. Clock oil, good sewing machine oil or WD40, all used sparingly, will not hurt either.
To clean gummed up, nasty metal dials I have used auto brake cleaner from a pressure pack successfully, followed by compressed air (gently!). On dials with plastic components I would be very hesitant with anything solvent, though. A good Silicone or Teflon product might help here. But normally these types are maintenance free and should work dry when clean.
I was advised on here not to use WD40. I stopped immediately and purchased an Oil Pen (left on photo). The needle on it is excellent for precision application.
Since then I have been learning more about the assembly/disassembly of dials and purchased a selection of oils and greases (box on photo).
But Moebius oils are considered amongst the best:
http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/oils
Both the PMG (Australia) and AT&T (US) stated that silicone and CRC/WD-40 should not be used as lubricants in dials or relays (anything with electrical contacts).
Here is a page from a PMG manual.
Regards
Jack
Here is some text from the AT&T Reliability Manual.
Jack
I would think any spray lube that got in the governor would render a rotary dial useless because the dial would return way to fast.
I think an oil pen with a drop in pivot points would be sufficient for most dials.
Quote from: Key2871 on January 01, 2020, 09:54:34 AM
I would think any spray lube that got in the governor would render a rotary dial useless because the dial would return way to fast.
I think an oil pen with a drop in pivot points would be sufficient for most dials.
Absolutely ! no need oil inside the governor . But i put a bit oil not only in pivot points , but also on gear a drop or two .not much . I sometimes put a little oil on the gears to limit the friction between the teeth thus causing metal wear if no oil. Since I am here on this group, I have accumulated some experience in disassembling and reassembling a dial even if I do not do it every day. However, this site here is very useful to me.
Yes this is a great place for advise. And I speak from experience, I had an old phone that the dial was sticky and slow. So I used WD on it.. Well it got in the governer and ruined the dial. I even wiped all the lube out and off the surfaces but no go. Well go go it did zing right back to the start, in a heart beat.. So my advise comes from been there done that experience.
Quote from: Key2871 on January 01, 2020, 02:52:23 PM
Yes this is a great place for advise. And I speak from experience, I had an old phone that the dial was sticky and slow. So I used WD on it.. Well it got in the governer and ruined the dial. I even wiped all the lube out and off the surfaces but no go. Well go go it did zing right back to the start, in a heart beat.. So my advise comes from been there done that experience.
Have you tried a machine to clean watch movements and the cleaning solution? It seems that it does wonders.
Yes, I agree ... this is a great place for good advice, and thanks to you guys for answering my question when I revived an old thread. Sometimes opinions change as a few yrs pass and new products come out.
I also put a little bit of oil on the gears, along with the other friction points. I've mostly used the Hoppes or Marvel Mystery Oil, but now that I'm getting back into phones, I want one of those needle oiler bottles, so I'll likely get some good clock oil too.
I think I'm going to try this Deoxit that I already have, if I need to clean contacts & switches, and keysets with dirty mechanisms. I have the red can (cleaner) and gold can (protectant), and they have worked well when I've used them for other applications. They're pretty well respected in the stereo and guitar worlds, and may be useful to some of you folks.
Let me know if these links are not allowed, and I'll remove them.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-G5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Enhancer/dp/B00FC4YO60
Josh
The pinpoint oiler is the best for dials in my opinion. The secret is to use it sparingly! A little goes a long way. As has already been said, never lubricate the governor! There is a BSP on servicing dials which includes the lubrication points, I cannot locate it at the moment. IIRC the pivot points for the gears is the only point WE recommends oiling. I also apply a small amount to the gears after they are cleaned but that's just me. Also WD 40 is not good to use for dials. It has it's uses, removing stickers is one thing it works well for. It is meant for Water Dispersment, hence the name, it was the 40th formula developed to get rid of moisture.
Exactly Harry, I learned the hard way. But I learned.
And no I haven't tried using an ultrasonic cleaner to do dials.
Simply because I don't really do that many dials, or anything that I need that type of machine.
I was looking at the ultrasonic cleaners also but as you said, I don't do that many dials to justify the cost. If I could find one a whole phone case would fit in for cheap I might try that.
You can find some used ultrasonic cleaners easily and that machine will clean very well all pieces from a dial without problem . With this machine , you can clean a lot of things like small tools removing all rust and grease . Anyway, when i I will have a chance to try a machine like that, I will see what it does, I know that some people use this kind of machine to clean small tools and other trinkets.
Quote from: HarrySmith on January 02, 2020, 06:56:48 AM
...Also WD 40 is not good to use for dials. It has it's uses, removing stickers is one thing it works well for. It is meant for Water Dispersment, hence the name, it was the 40th formula developed to get rid of moisture.
I never knew that 40th formula bit. Very good. :D
-----
Re Ultrasonic cleaners, I have one - thread here:
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?&topic=23055.0
...with a nice photo showing inside the Ultrasonic bath (after cleaning a dial which was placed in it without disassembly), and the grime residue which came off it.
BUT
Thanks to some great tutoring, I have since started to disassemble/reassemble dials. The grime that gets caught up inside a none-disassembled dial has nowhere to go, and cannot be released by Ultrasonic cleaning. It has to be seen to be believed. Those tinyist fragments which have nowhere to go can make all the difference. I think the best clean will always be a strip clean.
How big is the inside part of that machine?
Quote from: HarrySmith on January 02, 2020, 05:02:01 PM
How big is the inside part of that machine?
It is the 2 litre model, the tank is 14cm x 15cm x 10cm deep.
[quote author=FABphones
Re Ultrasonic cleaners, I have one - thread here:
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?&topic=23055.0
...with a nice photo showing inside the Ultrasonic bath (after cleaning a dial which was placed in it without disassembly), and the grime residue which came off it.
BUT
Thanks to some great tutoring, I have since started to disassemble/reassemble dials. The grime that gets caught up inside a none-disassembled dial has nowhere to go, and cannot be released by Ultrasonic cleaning. It has to be seen to be believed. Those tinyist fragments which have nowhere to go can make all the difference. I think the best clean will always be a strip clean.[/quote]
hummm,.. When I talk about cleaning a dial in an ultrasonic cleaner, I meant disassembling the dial to pieces and putting everything in the ultrasonic cleaner. Never put the fully assembled dial in the ultrasonic cleaner as everything will not be completely cleaned. ;)
Quote from: Contempra on January 02, 2020, 07:57:06 PM
hummm,.. When I talk about cleaning a dial in an ultrasonic cleaner, I meant disassembling the dial to pieces and putting everything in the ultrasonic cleaner. Never put the fully assembled dial in the ultrasonic cleaner as everything will not be completely cleaned. ;)
The good thing about ultrasonic cleaning is that you can do just that - clean a dial without disassembly.
I did some tests for a series of articles that involved:
1. Remove the dial card and dust cover (if there is one) of a dirty, sticking dial
2. Ultrasonic clean
3. Lubricate and test the dial
4. Disassemble the dial looking for areas that weren't cleaned
What I found was:
1. If the dial was mechanically sound and properly adjusted, no further work was needed - the dial was good to go.
2. If the dial was mechanically sound but poorly adjusted, the dial was good to go after adjustment.
3. Dials that were not mechanically sound were clean but pretty useless. Disassembling first would not have helped.
There was often some grime remaining on the main shaft but not enough to affect performance. Dials with mechanical issues generally had badly worn bearings - sometimes governor shaft end-play adjustment helped, sometimes not.
Jack
I would remove some main parts such as main shafts off of dials when ultrasonic cleaning was done. That way I could lubricate these hard to get places. You can get a cheap cleaner at harbor Fright tools. Used L&R cleaning chemicals and watch oil on the dials
Quote from: TelePlay on April 22, 2014, 09:23:02 PM3M 08897 Silicone Lubricant (Dry Type) ( not recommended )
Not recommended by who? My dial that I used that on still works perfectly fine 4 years later. If you're referring to the images in posts 37 and 38, those are talking about silicone oils and greases that can migrate/creep onto electrical contacts and/or the governor. I said in my original post:
QuoteAlso, keep the silicone spray away from the leaf switch contacts. It might not prevent them from working, but it certainly won't help them, because silicone isn't a conductor.
And while oils and greases of any kind can migrate/creep, dry silicone can't at all. Ideally you should wipe it dry after applying it (that's what the instructions on the can say to do), but the carrier fluid will also dry on its own if you don't wipe it off.
I just took a video of the dial returning from 0 (see attachment). The dial's motion starts at the 1-second mark and ends at the 2.1-second mark, so 1.1 seconds for 10 pulses (plus or minus 1/30th of a second for the start and stop points because the frame rate of the video is 30 FPS). It's not dead on but I've never adjusted it either. I only cleaned it and lubricated certain parts of it with 3M dry silicone about 4 years ago. Before that it was hitchy and didn't sound very healthy. I got it from my older sister about 20 years ago. She had bought it for next to nothing at a yard sale a few years before that for her daughter (a toddler at the time) to play with as a toy, so I doubt that did it any favors.
Quote from: JorgeAmely on April 22, 2014, 12:01:12 AM3 in 1. Works fine all the time.
That's what I use, seems to work great.
Mike
Just for reference, I needed straight 20 weight oil to lubricate a fan motor and found out that is exactly what 3-1 Oil is. By comparison, dial grease is thicker and dial oil is thinner.
Quote from: TelePlay on August 19, 2022, 10:10:19 AMJust for reference, I needed straight 20 weight oil to lubricate a fan motor and found out that is exactly what 3-1 Oil is. By comparison, dial grease is thicker and dial oil is thinner.
You never want to use standard (red & white bottle) 3 in one oil in a fan motor because its detergent oil.
Although there is a 3 in one you can use in the Blue & White bottle that is made for electric motors. Personally I use Zoom spout which is also made for electric motors and can be found at Lowes and other places.
The worst thing you can do , specially in an old electric motor is break loose the crud that's
keeping the bearings tight etc. And in electric motors that have wick type oilers the crud that
the detergent oil breaks loose with get stuck in the wick and eventually stop oil from flowing
to the bearings.
Quote from: RDPipes on August 19, 2022, 10:58:58 AMYou never want to use standard (red & white bottle) 3 in one oil in a fan motor because its detergent oil . . . there is a 3 in one you can use in the Blue & White bottle that is made for electric motors.
Guess I got it right, after reading the front label . . . ;)
SAE 20 3-1 Oil Engineered for Motors.jpg
Could not take the motor apart. Actually, had a hard time getting to it. It was running dry (vibrating) after it warmed up, ran 10 minutes, but after using a 1/8" ID 18" long plastic tubing and a couple of applications to get oil somewhere near the front and rear shaft bearings, all is well. Will remember your advice next time I have to work on a motor (however, I have taken motors that would not turn apart and after cleaning them, used high temperature grease on the shafts and that worked well).
Anyway, the point I was making about 3-1 Oil is that being 20 weight oil it is too thin to use as dial grease on the mainspring shaft, too thick to penetrate the bearing points on the gear train and too thick to put on gear teeth (it's a thicker coating) to become a magnet for dust and dirt that turns to mud over time, as in the image below (it required a round toothpick to remove the mud that had turned very hard in the small gear that is on the axel that turns the governor worm gear) where the mud was so think and hard that the gear mesh became tight, clogged up, and greatly slowed down the dial speed.
Anybody can use anything they want, it's their phone. Everyone has their own pet oil that works for them for if didn't, why would they be using it? The other oils might work just fine but why use something other than dial grease and oil when both are readily available and inexpensive?
Quote from: TelePlay on August 19, 2022, 02:39:57 PMAnyway, the point I was making about 3-1 Oil is that being 20 weight oil it is too thin to use as dial grease on the mainspring shaft, too thick to penetrate the bearing points on the gear train and too thick to put on gear teeth (it's a thicker coating) to become a magnet for dust and dirt that turns to mud over time, as in the image below (it required a round toothpick to remove the mud that had turned very hard in the small gear that is on the axel that turns the governor worm gear) where the mud was so think and hard that the gear mesh became tight, clogged up, and greatly slowed down the dial speed.
Any type of oil or grease will trap any dust/dirt that lands in it. It's not much of a concern in a normal home environment though, because while the dial mechanism isn't sealed anywhere near as well as, e.g., a typical mechanical watch mechanism (which usually has O-ring seals for water-resistance), it's still fairly well sheltered from normal dust in the air. Ones that get as gunked up as the one in your picture probably spent a lot of time in a dirty environment, somewhere like a factory or a mechanic's garage with a lot of dirty air blowing around all the time from things like fans, engine exhaust, and people blowing the dirt off things with a compressed air hose.
Hi all-
In the "master list" in post #16 of this topic, I do not see the "Zoom Spout" oiler included; it was mentioned by RDPipes in post #57. The manufacturer is Supco, and it is their item M098, but I also see it with other brand names all in the identical bottle (mine is labeled "ERP", but it also has the same trademark logo as do others).
I bought this product specifically after reading discussions mostly about lubricating vintage TV set tuners and other shafts (my main antique-electronics hobby), and record players/turntables (where oil is needed; Super Lube is my grease of choice after comparable research). Beside the obvious advice against WD-40, they said 3-in-1 and similar oils will become gummy after many years but had never had such problems with Zoom Spout. Though I have not yet lubricated any dials, I do have a Northern Electric pink Princess phone whose dial is slow in normal position but OK if dialed with the phone upside down. That will be my first dial to fix.
Quote from: ChrisW6ATV on March 15, 2023, 09:13:11 PMIn the "master list" in post #16 of this topic, I do not see the "Zoom Spout" oiler included; it was mentioned by RDPipes in post #57.
That is correct, Zoom Spout was offered by RDPipes as a lubricant for electric motors, not dials, and as such was not added to the master list of dial lubricants.
If you always had to trust what they say about the kinds of oils, you would never buy them. I have been using sewing machine oil for years, I have never had any problems. "3-1" is also excellent, as is synthetic oil for watchmaking.
As for your phone, cleaning the cogwheels and then oiling the parts (the shafts and a few drops on the teeth) you turn your dial from "0" at least two to three times and you wipe off the excess oil . But never oil in the 'governor' .... he does not need it.
Quote from: TelePlay on March 15, 2023, 09:21:47 PMZoom Spout was offered by RDPipes as a lubricant for electric motors, not dials, and as such was not added to the master list of dial lubricants.
Thanks, and I will find out if it is good for dials as well, unless I see an obvious reason not to.