Hello,
I have three 302s and they are all wired the same. Two of them work perfectly and the one pictured will dial out, ring and receive calls when the casing is off but when I install the casing on the base the phone will not ring.
The picture with the bells in it looks like the bells are too close to the clanger but I have moved them all around and the phone rings very strong when the casing is not installed on the base.
I rotated the bells away from the inside of the casing side just in case they were contacting it but it didn't fix the problem.
I can't see anything that would contact anything when the casing is installed but as soon as I place the casing on the base the ringing stops.
Does anyone know what is causing the phone to to stop ringing when the casing is assembled on the base.
Thanks,
Gary
First of all, the bias spring on the ringer should be set to the middle position, and not all the way over to the right.
One thing that could be interfering with the ringing might be the dust cover on the #6 dial, but I think there should be enough clearance.
I am surprised it works at all with the bias spring set so tight.
The red line cord connecting to L1 is almost touching the yellow condenser wire connected to L2. You should move those so they don't eventually touch each other.
I moved the wires. Pls see picture
Thanks,
Gary
Quote from: Phonesrfun on February 21, 2013, 11:56:26 PM
The red line cord connecting to L1 is almost touching the yellow condenser wire connected to L2. You should move those so they don't eventually touch each other.
Quote from: gands-antiques on February 21, 2013, 10:41:24 PM
Hello,
I posted the wrong pictures at first...I'm trying to delete them and post the right ones. They should be 5381, 5382, 5383 and 5384
I have three 302s and they are all wired the same. Two of them work perfectly and the one pictured will dial out, ring and receive calls when the casing is off but when I install the casing on the base the phone will not ring.
The picture with the bells in it looks like the bells are too close to the clanger but I have moved them all around and the phone rings very strong when the casing is not installed on the base.
I rotated the bells away from the inside of the casing side just in case they were contacting it but it didn't fix the problem.
I can't see anything that would contact anything when the casing is installed but as soon as I place the casing on the base the ringing stops.
Does anyone know what is causing the phone to to stop ringing when the casing is assembled on the base.
Thanks,
Gary
The red ringer wire looks like the insulation might be broken right at the spade tip connecting to L1. You might check that for a break in the wire inside.
The problem has to be something like that.
Secure the wires going to your dial. When you close the phone the wires are touching the ringer. ...Doug
Quote from: Phonesrfun on February 22, 2013, 12:47:53 AM
The red ringer wire looks like the insulation might be broken right at the spade tip connecting to L1. You might check that for a break in the wire inside.
The problem has to be something like that.
Also check for other wiring issues that could cause the ringer circuit to go open when the housing is replaced. Look for worn insulation on the wires that could cause a short if pushed against metal -- especially wires to the ringer and capacitor. When the housing is open, wiggle the wires gently to see if the ringing stops.
Thanks to everyone for all of the suggestions...
I checked every spade and wire many many times including isolating the dial and network with tape and it still wouldn't ring with the case on. For some reason it started working correctly this evening. I don't know what fixed it. I would feel a lot better if I knew what fixed it.
Anyway, I've tested it many times tonight and it rings perfectly every time now.
Maybe the gremlins jumped all over it.
One other question....Are the Riobi buffers you all use with thermoplastic polishing the orbital type or the rotating type? and what size?
Besides working on old phones, I restore antique brass blade fans and I currently use a shop pedestal buffer / polisher and I'm looking for something I can use like a hand held drill motor or polisher so I can stop having the brass blades jerked out of my hands when the buffer catches an edge and damages or destroys the blades.
Thanks a lot,
Gary
===========================
Quote from: paul-f on February 22, 2013, 11:31:43 AM
Quote from: Phonesrfun on February 22, 2013, 12:47:53 AM
The red ringer wire looks like the insulation might be broken right at the spade tip connecting to L1. You might check that for a break in the wire inside.
The problem has to be something like that.
Also check for other wiring issues that could cause the ringer circuit to go open when the housing is replaced. Look for worn insulation on the wires that could cause a short if pushed against metal -- especially wires to the ringer and capacitor. When the housing is open, wiggle the wires gently to see if the ringing stops.
Quote from: gands-antiques on February 22, 2013, 10:21:48 PM
I checked every spade and wire many many times including isolating the dial and network with tape and it still wouldn't ring with the case on. For some reason it started working correctly this evening. I don't know what fixed it. I would feel a lot better if I knew what fixed it.
Anyway, I've tested it many times tonight and it rings perfectly every time now.
Maybe the gremlins jumped all over it.
Congratulations, maybe!
Chances are there was an intermittant connection somewhere in the wiring.
If your manipulations just made a minor mechanical adjustment that now makes a good connection, a minor shock might restore the intermittant condition or cause the connection to fail completely. If it does fail, it may be easier to find next time.
Good luck.
Thanks Paul, maybe!
I'll just hope whatever it was is fixed.
Gary
================
Quote from: paul-f on February 23, 2013, 12:32:34 AM
Quote from: gands-antiques on February 22, 2013, 10:21:48 PM
I checked every spade and wire many many times including isolating the dial and network with tape and it still wouldn't ring with the case on. For some reason it started working correctly this evening. I don't know what fixed it. I would feel a lot better if I knew what fixed it.
Anyway, I've tested it many times tonight and it rings perfectly every time now.
Maybe the gremlins jumped all over it.
Congratulations, maybe!
Chances are there was an intermittant connection somewhere in the wiring.
If your manipulations just made a minor mechanical adjustment that now makes a good connection, a minor shock might restore the intermittant condition or cause the connection to fail completely. If it does fail, it may be easier to find next time.
Good luck.
It is possible that the problem is in the hookswitch, something not yet mentioned. Gands, you said that when you put the case on it wouldn't ring. But would it dial, and talk/receive with the case on?
As for the buffer, I have an orbital unit that I am not real thrilled with. It is great on flat surfaces of gentle curves, as it was intened. But it seems that the fact that the pad moves back and forth as it goes around makes it less effective at getting into tight inside corners, such as the angle where the hang-up ears on a 302 meet the handhold area (sorry, I know there are better words for both). I would think that this wobble would make it even more likely to catch the edge of a fan blade. But I've never done a fan ...
Bill
Thanks Bill.
When the case was installed on the 302 everything worked except for the ringers. Now, for some reason it is working just fine all of the time. I think I dorked with all of the wires long enough that the phone got tired of me and started working on it's own.
I really do wish I knew what fixed it but I don't.
Thanks for the info on the buffers. I didn't think an orbital buffer would do very well but I wasn't sure.
I think I'll start looking for a small rotary buffer.
Thanks again,
Gary
I agree with Doug that the wires needed to be dressed. All of the wires need to go behind the metal tabs near the hookswitch and next to the induction coil.
Thanks a lot.
When you say "all of the wires need to be dressed" do you mean just to bend the lugs down while also making sure they don't contact any metal or adjacent terminal?
Thanks,
Gary
In the photo, the green wire from GN to the hookswitch and the Red-Slate wire from L1 to R on the dial go through the metal clamp on the base and the metal post near the hookswitch; the other wires should also do this. And the spade lugs on the two black wires on BK of the dial sometimes give problems.