Western Electric 295 A subset

[Sargeguy]

This was from a box of junk I bought recently.  It was connected to a D-1 with a bunch of old lamp cord.  It had a Stromberg-Carlson network wedged inside.  In fact I thought it was an S-C box and was going to leave it behind (only do WECO), but I couldn't get the cords off.  When I finally got around to checking it out, I wiped the mouse turds off it I discovered that its actually a Western Electric 295 A.  Looks as if it was painted black at some point then stripped. 





I am planning to rig this up with a 101A network and see what happens.

Does anyone have any suggestions for refutbishing this sucker?  I want to keep it as original as possible.

[bingster]

The 295 was a standard sidetone subset, so all you need for it is a coil and condenser to make it work as a subset.  I'd install a 101A coil and condenser from a junker 302, and then you could use it as an antisidetone subset for your new 202.

[Jester]

These were actually refurbed in the way Bingster suggests, and were relabeled 495A.  Since your box appears to be painted over in black, it was probably "refurbed" as a 495A, anyway.

[Sargeguy]

Already put the coil and condenser in!  I was looking for advice on how to refinish the wood,  particularly how to remove the rest of the paint and polish it up while still retaining the original patina.  Also what products to use.  I think the wood is walnut.

[Doug Rose]

Use stripper on it and all the paint will melt right off. I would use medium steel wool and end with fine steel wool. Howards restora finish in walnut and you box will look brand new. It looks to have a really great grain in the wood .....Doug

[HarrySmith]

I have a similar box with a similar finish. I did some sanding and the black was not coming off. I showed it to a local furniture restoration guy and he told me the only way to remove the black was to bleach it, I forget what he said it was but I do remember him saying it was not paint. He also told me he did not recommend stripper as it would melt the glue in the joints and make the box loose or possibly fall apart. I still have the box and still have not refinished it.

[Doug Rose]

I have a similar box with a similar finish. I did some sanding and the black was not coming off. I showed it to a local furniture restoration guy and he told me the only way to remove the black was to bleach it, I forget what he said it was but I do remember him saying it was not paint. He also told me he did not recommend stripper as it would melt the glue in the joints and make the box loose or possibly fall apart. I still have the box and still have not refinished it.

Harry...I've been using stripper on old wood phones for over thirty years and NEVER has the glue melted in the joints. This wood is so hard you can't drive a nail into it. If its paint, it will come off with stripper, if its the grain of the wood, it will look great. I very rarely have to sand the wood, steel wool is all I need. Try it, you might be pleasantly surprised....Doug

[HarrySmith]

OK. I have never worked on one of these so I believed him. I will give it a try!

[Sargeguy]

I took a crack at the subset this weekend.  I used mineral spirits to remove the paint and wiped on Restor-o-finish.  I also removed all the metal parts and put them in the rock tumbler to shine them up.  I found some screws that were a good match for the missing ones.    The results so far are pretty good.  I have a few more questions
Where can I find a copy of the 295A wiring schematic, I need a copy for the door
Was one of the bells always painted black or was this done when the subset was painted black?
Does anyone have a picture of a 495-A subset so I cabn see where to attach the network and condensor.

[bingster]

The bells would have originally matched, whether black or bright.  It's not very good, but here's what I have in the way of a label:

[Phonesrfun]

The gongs were either painted black or they were nickel plated.  Attached are photos of one I restored a couple years ago, and I had the gongs and the door latch re-nickeled.  It was considered to be to "cheap-looking" at the time to have any bare brass parts on a phone.

[Phonesrfun]

Bingster:

I just noticed that your diagram and mine show the terminals in different places, although they are connected the same.

Just as a note, the deskset on this diagram connects as follows:

Yellow to L2
Red to terminal 2
Green to terminal 4.

Interesting.....

[bingster]

Bill, can you measure your label, please?  I think I can do some cleaning and adjusting of your photo, and that, with the measurements, will give Sargeguy a great label he can print out.

[Sargeguy]

You mean like this?



4.5 inches in width. 

Now I just have to figure out how to stain it.  Tea?  Watercolors?  Hmmm.

[Phonesrfun]

Sarge:

I lucked out.  I spent a couple hours my friend's his basement, and walked out with 6 terminals, 4 door hinge screws, the front screw for the door and its esteucheon (sp?), and, get this....  A #20 induction coil with wires still on it, and the 1mF condenser!  My camera is charging, so I'll post some pics later.