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Help with AE 90 Wiring!

Started by eBass, September 02, 2015, 10:51:13 AM

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unbeldi

If the dial does not rotate smoothly and at the correct speed, the dial pulses will not be properly recognized by almost any telephone system.  In this case the dial needs to be removed and cleaned internally, and examined for damage.
You can use various types of cleaning sprays, that don't leave a residue; Radio Shack sells a spray for electronic components, for example.  I also use an ultrasonic cleaner with some liquid soap as agent after removing the mechanism from the largest parts.

eBass

I have an ultrasonic cleaner.

Attached are pictures that I took after taking a few outer components of the rotary dial off. I can keep going, but I don't want to take anything extra off I do not need to, so I do not mess anything up.

Let me know which pieces I should take off and ultrasonic/oil up. I'll go to Radioshack and pick up the recommended spray.

Phonesrfun

At least to get to the dial itself, remove the four wires, then the large  backing plate held on by the three screws.  Then remove the finger stop, then remove the pink plastic bezel with the numbers by removing the three screws around the inner lip of the center area.

At that point, you will have the whole dial isolated.  Others can lead you through further steps that might be needed to run it through the ultrasonic.  Maybe you can just put the dial in the ultrasonic in this state.  I have always disassembled the dial much further and put the pieces through the ultrasonic, but that involves some disassembly/reassembly skills of a higher level than many have.  THere are also some pictorial tutorials on this forum regarding that particular dial.
-Bill G

eBass

Pink cover plate off as well as taking wires and back plate off as well. (Pictures of what I have left included.)

Should I ultrasonic clean first or go to Radioshack and get the non-lubricant cleaner and spray it with that first? I am also assuming after the ultrasonic clean I will need to spray it with compressed air or the like, yes?

unbeldi

Quote from: eBass on September 06, 2015, 11:49:20 AM
Pink cover plate off as well as taking wires and back plate off as well. (Pictures of what I have left included.)

Should I ultrasonic clean first or go to Radioshack and get the non-lubricant cleaner and spray it with that first? I am also assuming after the ultrasonic clean I will need to spray it with compressed air or the like, yes?

That should be plenty in terms of disassembly. No extra spray is needed before the ultrasonic cleaner.  Usually I just rinse well or put it in just clear water in the ultrasonic as a rinse to get the soap off.  When no plastic parts are present, I have also used acetone out of a spray bottle for drying.  Using distilled water as a final rinse may also work.  In any case it should just be left for thorough drying for a while.  Finally a tiny drop of watch oil may be good in the usual places.

There are some dial maintenance practices by GTE, IIRC, check the TCI library or online.  IIRC, they even specify spots for oil.


eBass

What kind of soap do you recommend? A drop or two of dish soap or is there a particular kind that is better than others?

andre_janew

Dawn is a good brand to use for getting rid of grease.  It is even used to get crude oil  off birds.

unbeldi

Last week I cleaned a No. 6D dial in the ultrasonic cleaner and I simply used a small shot of the concentrated laundry detergent we had in the laundry room, because I didn't have anymore the "extra-strength" dish-washing liquid I used before, I think it was Dawn Powerclean.

eBass

I went and bought some Dawn Power Clean and ran two 8 minute cycles. Then I replaced the water with just distilled water and ran an 8 min cycle and then a 3 minute cycle. Still drying now.

I will wait until it is fully dry but it looks like it is still sticking. From what I can tell, and researching part names, the governor is what is sticking. If I do a full spin (like a 9 dial) is seems to wind back down, but if it is a small spin (a dial of a 2 or a 3) it just stays and does not spin back. If I click in small winds, it does not unwind until I start it unwinding first.

I imagine oiling up is what I do next, but please advise. If so, what oil and exactly where to put the oil? Thank you!

G-Man

Page 19 of this document from the TCI Library deals with lubrication of dials.
Remember, in most cases a tiny drop of lubricant will do and above all, do not allow any to access the governor.

eBass

Will follow PG 19. Do I need to use lubricant Specification 5920. or is there one I can get a little more easily?

eBass

When you say "do not allow any to access the governor", what do you mean? On Pg 19 the is numerous references to lubricating parts of the governor.

Phonesrfun

The governor housing cup is at the top of the governor.  Items K and G on the diagram seem to indicate lubrication points that I personally would avoid because the whole idea of the governor is that the little tips on the ends of the two centrifugal springs use friction against the inside of the cup or drum to achieve speed regulation.  Location D would be just the brass bushing where the very pointed tip of the end of the governor shaft spins.  That can be lubricated.  Use a very light oil like three-in-one or a light grade oil that you can buy in a little oiler pen at Harbor Freight or other hardware stores.
-Bill G

G-Man

Quote from: eBass on September 06, 2015, 07:41:05 PM
When you say "do not allow any to access the governor", what do you mean? On Pg 19 the is numerous references to lubricating parts of the governor.

Do not allow the oil to access the inside of the governor cup. Only lubricate the bearing-points.


If oil is allowed to seep into the cup, the dial will run much too fast.


Another method that is generally specified by the Bell System, is for the use of a toothpick dipped in oil, with the excess removed. This helps prevent over-oiling those points.

eBass

I finally was able to pick up 3-in-1.

To be clear, I should oil everything in the diagram, BUT avoid the things inside the cup marked G and K on the diagram? I can oil tonight, but wanted to double check first.