Hi,
I am working on a 1964 Yellow 500 with the earlier dial, (didn't know they made the 7 type in 64) but more specifically with the 425E net. I am having troubles finding the schematic on TCI, and I was hoping somebody could direct me to the correct one.
Thanks,
Ben
I would imagine it is the same as any other 500. Have you compared to the others listed here?
I have the same phone, same year Ben and the network in this picture is the same schema for my phone.. My dial is a 7C and the month-year are 3-64
PS: I can be wrong but this shematic is good and work for my phone
(http://i56.servimg.com/u/f56/16/43/78/89/500_no11.jpg)
Contempra and Harry,
I think you guys are both right, but my phone just "hmmms" so I was wondering if I had the wiring wrong.
I guess, I should suspect the line cord is bad? I treated it with some bleach and goo gone, but I kept the conductors away from the solvent, so I wouldn't think that had killed it.
Ben
The 425E has one additional screw terminal, labeled C, next to GN. On the 425B, there is only a soldered hookswitch wire without a screw terminal at that location, since many of the hookswitch leads are soldered rather than spade-tipped in the older 500s.
Try temporarily moving the white hookswitch lead from F to RR to bypass the dial.
The diagram doesn't show any of the hookswitch leads. Only the Green, White, and Slate hookswitch leads can be moved on a 425B
do you mean David : slate-brown
: slate-red
: slate-black
from the switch ?
Quote from: Contempra on January 20, 2014, 07:32:35 PM
do you mean David : slate-brown
: slate-red
: slate-black
from the switch ?
For the 425B, which uses the older color code, I should have said
Slate-green (on L1)
Slate-white (on F)
Slate (on L2)
are the 3 hookswitch wires with spade tips. (Slate-red and slate-black are soldered hookswitch wires.)
The hookswitch colors are as follows for a 500D:
L1--(Green) [Slate-Green]
L2--(Yellow) [Slate-Yellow]
L2--(Slate) [Slate]
F---(White) [Slate-White]
C---(Brown) [Slate-Brown]
GN--(Red) [Slate-Red]
R---(Black) [Slate-Black]
(Later color code) [Old color code]
Thank you, guys!
Unless I get some time to work on it tonight, I will finish trying to repair it next weekend, as I am a bit busy with school work. Then I will check back!
As always, I appreciate your help,
Ben
Ben, with an early 7A dial and a 425E network I suspect that your set has been refurbished somewhere along the line however both are compatible and should not deter you from being able to restore it to an awesome looking yellow 500-set.
Here is a short blurb on the 425E network which shows that other than having a screw [C] terminal rather than soldered, it is the same as 425B network.
Thank you,
You could be right about it being refurbished, because it does have the hard center fingerwhele.
I'l make sure to read that up.
Ben
The way WECo usually draws the 425 network circuit is very compact and easy for illustrating connections, but it is very hard to actually understand this way its functioning in the telephone circuit.
Here is my circuit diagram of the 500D with the 425B network.
Still not a trivial task to understand, but I think it's probably the most logically arranged diagram one might find.
Of course there are many ways to draw a circuit based on which aspect of the functioning of the circuit is emphasized.
This one tries to separate the various signal paths from left to right for
(a) ringing on the left, C4A, C1
(b) hookswitch HS1&2, dial pulsing DP, with RF suppression and loop length compensation, C2/R1/V1
(c) primary windings P1, P2, of the induction coil
(d) transmitter circuit, TX, R2
(e) audio balancing, side tone, V2, C3, C4, R3,
and finally
(f) receiver RX, and hearing protection switches, DS, HS3
Okay,
I am back at it, I double checked wiring and switc hook wiring, and I still get nothing. I then tried to bypass the dial, as instructed by poplar1, and still the hmmmmm sound.
And by the way, it does not have saudered switch hook leads,as all 7 have connecters.
Any ideas, do you think the either of the cords could be at fault?
Ben
The Village Idiot, Strikes again! It turns out that on my testing lead, the red wire was broken, so after I fixed it, it works.
Sorry, for confusing you guys.. But, I thought I would show you some after pictures, even though I forgot the before ones. The lighting isn't that great, but if you stay tuned to my YouTube channel, I will later make a more in depth video of it.
Link: https://www.youtube.com/user/RetroVintageItems27
Ben
I will be getting a 1962 WE 500 without a dial and an inoperable ringer within the next few days. I guess that would make it a 500D. It is my hope that there is nothing seriously wrong with it and that maybe a simple wiring change or fixing a broken wire will make the ringer work. I bought it on eBay and paid $.99 for the phone and $17.90 for the shipping and handling for a grand total of $18.89. I have no idea what type of network this phone will be using. If it is a 425E type network, then the wiring diagram on this page will help me. If not, I may have to look elsewhere.
Quote from: andre_janew on November 24, 2014, 06:56:53 PM
I will be getting a 1962 WE 500 without a dial and an inoperable ringer within the next few days. I guess that would make it a 500D. It is my hope that there is nothing seriously wrong with it and that maybe a simple wiring change or fixing a broken wire will make the ringer work. I bought it on eBay and paid $.99 for the phone and $17.90 for the shipping and handling for a grand total of $18.89. I have no idea what type of network this phone will be using. If it is a 425E type network, then the wiring diagram on this page will help me. If not, I may have to look elsewhere.
A 500 with an apparatus blank, instead of a dial, i.e. a manual 500, is a 500C. The dial version is 500D. A 500D set that has the dial simply missing, I would call a parts-500.
I can't tell which case is yours, but manual 500-sets usually fetch a few bids above 99c.
A 1962 set should still have a 425B network. It is virtually identical to the E version, which came about a year later.
It is quite possible, that the ringer is wired for grounded ringing which is simple to change by moving a single wire.
Here is a picture of my 1962 500CR-3.
It does, in fact, look like your 500C. That must be the model I meant. I do have a phone that does have a 425B network. It is a fully modular 500DM. It has a 10-59 date on its network and it also has a dial with a clear plastic wheel. It was probably refurbished at some point, but I'm hoping I could use it as a reference for my 500C.
Good deal for $0.99.
When you open it up you will see screw terminals on top of the network.
Locate the L1 and L2 terminals. L1 has the green line cord conductor and L2 has the red one. Between the two terminals is an elevated terminal G. G stands for ground, and was used for the ground connection for ringing. It may have the yellow line conductor connected. It also may have the black wire to the ringer. This prevents ringing on modern lines.
If the black wire is indeed there, move it over to L1. That connects the ringer between the two line wires, tip and ring and it should work if every thing else is ok.
I will give that a try. Thank you.
To convert a 500D (dial) to 500C (manual)--or 500DM to 500CM:
After removing all four dial wires, move the slate-white hookswitch wire (white in later sets) from F to RR.
I got the phone today. I moved the black wire to L1 and now the ringer works! It is the only phone I have where all the major components were all made in the same year. Pictures of my WE 500C and the story of how I found it can be found in the November 2014 Find of the Month section.
I have a 500 with a 425E network. I can't get a dial tone with it unless the blue wire from the dial is on L1 instead of F. What is going on here? Is the network bad or could there be something else wrong?
Quote from: andre_janew on June 19, 2016, 04:29:47 PM
I have a 500 with a 425E network. I can't get a dial tone with it unless the blue wire from the dial is on L1 instead of F. What is going on here? Is the network bad or could there be something else wrong?
Well, moving that wire primarily excludes the hook switch from the circuit, make sure the line switch (slate-green/slate-white ?) actually closes when going off-hook.
I figure I'm probably bypassing a bad set of contacts. The phone does work normally wired that way. I suppose I should get a replacement hook switch for it.
Quote from: andre_janew on December 20, 2016, 06:00:12 PM
I figure I'm probably bypassing a bad set of contacts. The phone does work normally wired that way. I suppose I should get a replacement hook switch for it.
How about first testing the suspect hook switch contacts. Do you have a multimeter ? Alternately, you can use a battery and a flash light bulb.
I don't have a mutimeter.
Quote from: andre_janew on December 21, 2016, 12:13:55 PM
I don't have a mutimeter.
I do think any telephone hobbyist should have at least a basic one, if ever interested in opening up a telephone and fixing it. These can be bought very cheaply even at Walmart for much less than we pay for many phones.
For example: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Digital-Multimeter-10709/14521541 which is listed at $14. This particular one probably comes in handy in many situations for testing batteries as well.
In addition it measures resistance (ohm, Ω), voltage (V), and current (amperes, A).
Feel free to upgrade to one of the many instruments also available for a little more.
If you have a local Harbor freight, get on their emailing list. They send out a coupon several times each year for a free multi tester, no purchase required. They work, I have several.
Until I get a multimeter, how do I test it with a battery and a bulb?
Quote from: Pourme on December 21, 2016, 06:40:06 PM
If you have a local Harbor freight, get on their emailing list. They send out a coupon several times each year for a free multi tester, no purchase required. They work, I have several.
No need to get on the mailing list, when you walk in the store they have the flyers right there inside the door. Just pick one up and rip out the coupon.
Quote from: andre_janew on December 23, 2016, 05:03:44 PM
Until I get a multimeter, how do I test it with a battery and a bulb?
Have the bulb in series with the battery. Test probe + going to battery + then the "load" then battery -. When you "contact" the leads together the "load" activates.
The load can be a light or buzzer. Look up "continuity light" for more info.
Have fun with the concept. It is 1 way find broken conductors on wire runs.
Jim S.
It must be either a bad wire or a bad set of contacts because I couldn't get the bulb to light up. Something must be forked up in the hook switch!
I couldn't find just a hook switch for it and ended up getting a replacement base for it. It works like it is supposed to with no special wiring. I now have a spare 425E network.