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Western Electric 102b loud pop when dialing

Started by Jf510, August 20, 2022, 02:01:27 PM

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Jf510

I have a Western Electric 102b that I had powder coated. I put all the parts back and wired it to a 534 ringer box. I am getting a loud pop when I lift the receiver and when dialing. The phone otherwise works well. I changed the dial, ringer box, switch contacts in the phone and even the handle just in case and no change. I had a few other 102's and 202's powder coated and wired to a ringer box and they all work fine. I am stumped on why this particular phone wants to pop. Any ideas? Thanks.

MMikeJBenN27

#1
Quote from: Jf510 on August 20, 2022, 02:01:27 PM...Any ideas? Thanks.
Sounds to me as if the switch leaves are not closing in the correct sequence.  Find the wiring diagram for your phone in the TCI library, and you will see which leaves are supposed to close first, then compare that with your's.  As for the snap while dialing, that could be the contacts in the dial assembly.  The shunt contacts are supposed to open at the same time the shunt contacts close.  If they are out of sequence, you will hear that loud click.  If you can make them work in exact sequence, the noise should go away.

Mike

TelePlay

One of a few from the TCI Library showing the hook switch closing order.

B1 and D1 Handset Mountings, 202df Tl

Jf510

Thanks for this info. That really helps. I will take a better look at the sequence. I am surprised the other contacts did the same thing but maybe those contacts are not in sequence either.

Jf510

I checked the switch contacts for the proper sequence and the pop is gone but when I turn the dial and when the finger wheel comes back to rest it pops kind of loud. My other phones don't do that. I check the sequence of the dial from info I got here a few years ago and it looks right. I even changed the dial again and it still has the same pop. It's not a big deal but a bit frustrating.

MMikeJBenN27

Quote from: Jf510 on August 20, 2022, 05:24:52 PMI checked the switch contacts for the proper sequence and the pop is gone but when I turn the dial and when the finger wheel comes back to rest it pops kind of loud. My other phones don't do that. I check the sequence of the dial from info I got here a few years ago and it looks right. I even changed the dial again and it still has the same pop. It's not a big deal but a bit frustrating.
Hmm, Too bad you don't live near me so I could look at it.  All I can think of is to make sure both black wires are on "BK" and not one of them on "BB", and both red wires are on "R".

Mike

poplar1

(1) Loosen the W terminal screw on the dial enough that the white handset wire can be removed easily. Now, you should be able to disconnect and connect the white handset wire easily, and there should not be a pop in the receiver when doing this. If there is no pop, then probably the W and BB dial contact springs are opening too soon. These are the two contacts that are closest to the bottom of the dial, near the Y-BK-BB-R screw terminals.

(2) Did you try it with another subset? On a 534A, sometimes the induction coil is bad (shorted primary winding?)
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Jf510

Hi..I checked another 102b wired to a 534A that I had and it popped too. I missed that when I refurbished it. I had a 684BA in my shed so I wired the 102b to it and it worked perfect. Is there anything I can do to use my 534A's? I was using a 3 wire to the sub so I did a 4 wire and I lost the ring. It still popped when dialing. Thanks

Jf510

I just read the notes on the wiring diagram regarding side tone and anti side tone. I am lost on that. Is there something I can do to get my 534's to work properly. I have a few of them and would like to use them.

poplar1

http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=14194.15


From Jack Ryan:

2015-04-27, 23:11:43
I haven't played with a B1/102 for a while but isn't the "return to normal" pop a feature of that circuit?

The capacitor charges via the ringer when the dial is off normal and discharges via the receiver (pops) when the dial returns to normal. As long as the dial off normal contacts are adjusted properly, the remaining click is a feature.

Try disconnecting the bell - if the pop disappears, that is the problem (feature). Any residual pop might mean that the dial off normal contacts need adjustment.

Jack

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Another member suggested adding a separate capacitor for the ringer.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Jf510

Hi... I switched the dial again to make sure and it wasn't it. I then removed the ringer wire as you suggested and the popping stopped. It looks like it's indeed the ringer causing that loud pop. The comment you made regarding a ringer capacitor might do the trick but what type of capacitor would I need and how would I wire it? It seems like the popping is a characteristic of the 534 ringer boxes but it would sure be nice if there was a fix. I have probably 6 of them. Any info would be appreciated.

poplar1

Red ringer wire on L1

New 1 Microfarad capacitor connected to black ringer wire

Other new capacitor wire to L2Y
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.

Jf510

I searched 1 Microfarad capacitor on Amazon and it came up with lots of capacitors with numbers that's over my head. Can you please send me a link on exactly what I need? Thanks so much.

MMikeJBenN27

Quote from: Jf510 on September 11, 2022, 02:17:55 PMHi... I switched the dial again to make sure and it wasn't it. I then removed the ringer wire as you suggested and the popping stopped. It looks like it's indeed the ringer causing that loud pop. The comment you made regarding a ringer capacitor might do the trick but what type of capacitor would I need and how would I wire it? It seems like the popping is a characteristic of the 534 ringer boxes but it would sure be nice if there was a fix. I have probably 6 of them. Any info would be appreciated.
That means your condenser is leaking.  Easiest to replace it with one guarenteed to be good.  Replacing it with a 4 wire condenser will require changing the wiring, which might be hard.  Never tried to do it myself.

Mike

Jf510

That sounds way over my head. I have 2 more 102b wired to a 534 and 3 202's wired to a 534 and they are all popping when the dial returns to rest. Even my 202 wired to a 584A pops. The 634's & 684's I have are perfect. I don't know how I ended up with so many 534's. They work fine except that popping is annoying.