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L-2122 Telephone Will Not Ring

Started by LRosenberger, January 20, 2023, 01:35:13 PM

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Hi Everone,
I have an Illinois Bell Telephone, Number L-2122, Model US-4, 1966, Drawing B-696501, F-56660, French Style phone. The phone will operate normally when calling out. When receiving calls the phone does not ring, but if the handset is lifted when a call is coming in it operates normally. No ring is heard on any setting of the ringer volume slider.

The phone has 4010B network interface dated 9-65 and uses a P1A ringer with a single 63A gong. The ringer solenoid has red and black ends with three taps: blue, slate and slate-red.
Ringer solenoid resistances are:
Black to Blue: 473 ohm
Blue to Slate: 467 ohm
Slate to Slate-Red: 1650 ohm
Slate-Red to Red: 2600 ohm
Black to Red: 5100 ohm
No shorts to the base plate
When calling in, the signal to phone is swinging 90 VAC pulse that can be seen when using a VTVM on the incoming line. The pulse time matches the ring heard over the line by the caller.

I have checked the wire connections using the guidelines found in the Bell Systems Practices, Section 503-100-120, Page 10 and they appear to be OK. Some measurments taken on the 4010B with all leads disconnected are:
A to K- 450 nF
Q to R- 13 mF
RR to F- 225 nF
GN to Q- 13 mF
C to F- 215 mF
F to RR- open
F to C- open
C to B- 40 ohm
B to Q- 38 ohm
R to RR- 13 ohm
R to Q- 15.5 kohm
GN to Q- 15.5 kohm
GN to R- 85 ohm
B to R- 15.5 kohm
(mF = microfarad)

Any suggestions on how to proceed in resolving this issue would be appreciated.
Thank you.


Welcome to the forum! We love pictures! Plus they are helpful in trying to figure out your issue. To start with, where are the ringer wires connected?
Harry Smith
ATCA 4434

"There is no try,
there is only
do or do not"


Try the following:

Black ringer lead to terminal L1 (not Y)
Red Ringer lead to terminal A
If it still doesn't work, ensure that terminal K is connected to L2 by means of a strap or through the switchook contacts.


This is the 4010B network (I don't see a Y terminal, maybe you meant G).

I opened up a Princess recently and found the BLACK ringer wire was attached to G (for grounded ringing) and the ringer did not work.

The BLACK wire was too short to move it to "L1" so I made a short patch wire to connect "G" to "L1" and left the ringer BLACK wire on "G". After that, the ringer worked fine (bridged ringing).


Yes, I meant G. The yellow wire in the linecord connects to it.

I believe the black wire on the P1A ringer is long enough, if for some reason it is not, then your hack will be useful. Otherwise, as I previously stated, connect the black ringer wire directly to L1.


If you are using the original mounting cord (cord from phone to wall), then the yellow and green conductors from the phone would be connected to the same screw terminal at the wall connecting block.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.


Quote from: G-Man on January 20, 2023, 02:33:22 PMTry the following:

Black ringer lead to terminal L1 (not Y)
Red Ringer lead to terminal A
If it still doesn't work, ensure that terminal K is connected to L2 by means of a strap or through the switchook contacts.

Since the slate switchhook conductor is factory connected to A, then if you connect a jumper between L2 and K, as you suggest, the capacitor (A and K) will be shorted out whenever the phone is on hook (continuity between L2 and K , and  also between L2 [yellow switchhook] and A [slate switchhook]).

Per the diagram, red ringer connects to K, and the slate switchhook to A. There may also be a factory jumper from L2 to A.
"C'est pas une restauration, c'est une rénovation."--François Martin.


Good catch Dave! I've been recovery from recent surgery and I am still a bit woggly, even more so than my usual state.
Even so, after starting out as an installer/repairman working in outside plant and eventually ending up as a central office repairman, after more than 54-years, I should still know better.
 In this instance I first tried to insert a Y terminal on this network instead of G, which the Yellow wire connects to (thanks teleplay).

And obviously I meant that the A terminal (and not K) should be jumpered to L2. This should have already been done at the factory but since we have no idea as to its current state and if the wires from the hookswitch or the factory jumper are currently terminated correctly, I wanted to make certain that L2 and A are bonded together.
As far as tying the yellow and green linecord conductors together at the terminal block, that of course is one option but again who knows if this is an original installation or not?
Back in the day when we installed an instrument for single-line service we could tie the yellow to the green wire at the block, or if it was a ring-party on a two-party line, directly to ground.
We also don't know if the line cord is modular or spade terminated, so it is probably better to take care rewire the ringer inside of the set, especially since he has already opened it up and is already familiar with it.
But thanks again for straightening it out.