Is this a military WE 302? I think so...

[shortrackskater]

I just completed a 30 minute conversation to a friend using the phone. It's probably first time this phone worked in possibly decades.
This phone was left out for trash at a neighborhood "waste" curbside pickup. Whoever picked it up put it on ebay, where I bought it, for $5.
THANK YOU again for your help.
I'll now get to my work on the cracks in front. One is repaired and I have one more to go. I started a thread on restoration so I'll post the "after" shots soon.

[Alex G. Bell]

I just completed a 30 minute conversation to a friend using the phone. It's probably first time this phone worked in possibly decades.
This phone was left out for trash at a neighborhood "waste" curbside pickup. Whoever picked it up put it on ebay, where I bought it, for $5.
THANK YOU again for your help.
I'll now get to my work on the cracks in front. One is repaired and I have one more to go. I started a thread on restoration so I'll post the "after" shots soon.

Again, you're very welcome.  Persistence paid off (as usual).

[Alex G. Bell]

The handset cord is conspicuously wrong because it's a cord intended for a G handset with the bushing still in place.  A G handset cord has long white leads on the handset end to reach up through the hollow handle to the receiver unit.  It's anyone's guess what they did with all the extra lead length since I don't think there is enough space to store it in the transmitter unit cavity.  Also, a proper F handset cord would have a brass strain relief band intended to go under a screw head. 

If it were mine I'd try to clean up the handset cord termination.  Assuming the WH leads have already been cut short: remove the bushing, find a strain relief band salvaged off a rotten cord to reapply to this cord, and put proper insulation piercing space tips on the WH leads inside the handset.  Chances are they were crudely terminated under the screw heads.  Tinsel wire is very breakable. 

If the WH leads are still full length I'd remove the cord and save it for a proper use on a 500 set, get a proper 3-conductor F handset cord with appropriate lead lengths and strain reliefs.  You might want to consider getting cloth jacketed repro cords.  They improve the appearance a lot.

If the WH lead have already been trimmed with ordinary commercial electronics industry spade tips crimped onto them or the bare ends terminated under the screw this may lead to breakage.  Proper phone industry spade tips wrap around the insulation to relieve strain on the delicate conductor while making electrical contact via a tang that pierces through the insulation.  There are commercial sources for these spade tips and tools to apply them.  A friend bought some spade tips in the recent past.  I can find out where.

I've seen recent discussions on CRPF about the Radio Shack tool, sadly no longer available, a bargain while it was.

Other threads on CRPF discuss bending the corners of the base plate inward somewhat to improve clearance since corner cracking is usually the result of shrinkage of the plastic housing.

[TelePlay]

Replies with links to sources:

Crimper





Spade Lugs

[shortrackskater]

Here's "after" picture and a link to the thread I made showing my semi-restoration, just to make it look acceptable. I also used all the original parts other than the line cord and the leather on the feet. Oh... replacement transmitter and receiver, but from the same year!
http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=18290.0

[Alex G. Bell]

Looks good but you need a number card holder assembly for the middle of the finger wheel to make it look complete.

[shortrackskater]

The handset cord is conspicuously wrong because it's a cord intended for a G handset with the bushing still in place.  A G handset cord has long white leads on the handset end to reach up through the hollow handle to the receiver unit.  It's anyone's guess what they did with all the extra lead length since I don't think there is enough space to store it in the transmitter unit cavity.  Also, a proper F handset cord would have a brass strain relief band intended to go under a screw head. 

The handset says TP 6A, which is actually from the wider version of this phone. At least that's what I see when I google search TP6A.
You're right... there was no strain relief. The cord was wired, but hanging out. I make a strain relief using a modified crimp lug.
The wires to the receiver disappear into the main handset part and are connected under the terminals in the receiver.

[shortrackskater]

Thanks for the links!

[Alex G. Bell]

The handset says TP 6A, which is actually from the wider version of this phone. At least that's what I see when I google search TP6A.
You're right... there was no strain relief. The cord was wired, but hanging out. I make a strain relief using a modified crimp lug.
The wires to the receiver disappear into the main handset part and are connected under the terminals in the receiver.

I'm pretty sure a number of mfrs made fairly different looking but interchangeable handsets all marked TP6A.

It looks like a common WE/NE F1 handset.  Some F-type handsets were hollow and had a RD and a WH wire with a spade tip at each end connecting the spring contacts in the REC end to the R and W terminals in the transmitter end.  Most of them are solid with the wires embedded in the Bakelite during molding. 

So are you saying that the handset is hollow and the WH cord leads are snaked up into the receiver end and connected to the spring contact screws at the receiver end?  Or are they connected to the W terminal at the transmitter end? 

I could be confusing this thread with another but I remember seeing a photo of a 302 with two WH handset cord leads both connected to the W terminal on the dial.  That would not work if the leads were snaked up to the receiver end and connected to the two spring terminal screws.

[shortrackskater]

No, AGB you are correct. The wires are IN the bakelite. I didn't realize they embedded wire in those.
And I do have two white wires but they are connect just as a pair from the handset transmitter to the dial.

[Alex G. Bell]

I was wondering how one went in there. I'll have to dig up a picture.

There is a slot in the recess in the finger wheel at 4 o'clock.  The card holder frame has an outward facing tab which slips into the slot and an inward facing tab at 10 o'clock which the brass rotating piece slips over to keep it in place.  A flat tool is slid under the edge of the frame to move the rotating piece into and out of the position which locks the frame in place. 

There are authentic number card images on line but my bookmarks are too much of a disorganized heap to find the site at this moment.  You'll probably find it if you Google "Dave Margulius".

[shortrackskater]

Maybe this belongs in my other thread but forgot to say. The original (rotted) line cord a cord seal grommet. I was able to salvage it and put it on the new cord. Here's a picture of that. Whoops! Just noticed some polish I missed.
And yes that cord IS wrong. It's just what I had laying around. And again, I just wanted to make this work and look decent with most of the parts original.

[unbeldi]

The handset says TP 6A, which is actually from the wider version of this phone. At least that's what I see when I google search TP6A.
You're right... there was no strain relief. The cord was wired, but hanging out. I make a strain relief using a modified crimp lug.
The wires to the receiver disappear into the main handset part and are connected under the terminals in the receiver.

I don't understand what you mean with "wider version of this phone".
The handset is molded with "TP6A" ?   Really?  TP6A is the Signal Corp's designation for the entire telephone, but the handset alone is a TS-9,  specifically a TS-9-F or TS-9-M for the Western Electric version of it. Other manufactures had different letter suffixes, for example the Kellogg version was TS-9-K.

How are the transmitter and receiver elements marked ?   An original TS-9 handset from WECo should have elements marked D141914 and D141915 for the transmitter and receiver, respectively.  They are functionally and geometrically identical to an F1 and HA1, but usually have the outer metal band that holds them together from copper metal, which is reddish-orange rather than gray.  I have always assumed that this protects the metal from fungus growth.

A TS-9-F handset also has a closure plate in the handle, as shown in my picture.   This TS-9-F was made in November 1943, transmitter in March 1942, and receiver in August 1942.  During the war, the handset handles still had a solid core, but I seem to read from your description that yours has two wires threaded through a core channel from the receiver cup to the transmitter cup ?   However, you also state "The wires are IN the bakelite".  So I am confused.

Cord grommets were standard for Signal Corp telephones to prevent tropical insects from entering.

[shortrackskater]

Sorry on all that confusion.

So far, very few have chimed in on details on the phone. I have an entire thread on the repair going for a few weeks.
And as I stated a few times... I'm a novice at this.  I'm no phone pro at all. All I've done is google search for details and TP 6 came up with a "wide model" phone, that looks toaster sized. And that's what's printed on the handset...

pictured in the other thread.  http://www.classicrotaryphones.com/forum/index.php?topic=18256.0

SEE REPLY #12 for picture.

Everything I looked up showed the phone to be a WE302 EW.

The transmitter/receiver elements are just marked HA1 and F1. There's no numbers on the faces. On the side of the HA 1 is marked in red
-7 1 52-1

I won't assume anything here - it gets me in trouble! 

================================

EDIT: ( handset discussion has been split out of the restoration topic and merged into this topic )

This stuff should all be moved to the other thread I think... I was attempting just to show the cosmetic repair here.

[HarrySmith]

I had a " toaster" phone that was marked TP 6A that was made by Conn tel & elect at one time.