Ok, now that I have my hord sorted out, I went back to a project I was in the middle of. It just so happens to be another black AE 80. I was going to partially reassemble it to trouble-shoot/test it, but I noticed the dial has a clicking noise when I rotate it, but not on the return. Although that's desirable in a 4H dial, I don't think it is in an AE dial, none of the others have it. Here's vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZS6piWC0ayU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZS6piWC0ayU)
My AE80 dial doesn't click. Yours must be haunted :)
Larry
Older AE dials do click on wind-up, but not usually quite that loud. The ratchet probably needs to be cleaned and lubed. My old AE80 dial clicks on wind-up too, but like I say, not quite that loud.
That is the way they are. Some are equipped with an anti-ratchet mechanism. Some don't. But I think this applies only to the Type 24 dial. Type 52 dials should not ratchet on wind up.
Brinybay,
You will have to clean as Bill has suggested ! Go here and download . Go to pg. 4 and the culprits are 20 , 21 , 22 . No 21 , when stuck, will cause the clicking on wind up. I can move my pawl lever all the way clockwise and it will make the clicking noise , but on the next wind up , it will be nice and quiet, when it floats, like a slip clutch . If that won't fix it send it to me and I'll swap it just for the charge of postage to you. I have several.
This is Remco's site.
stub
http://tinyurl.com/26wnzwf
Quote from: stub1953 on May 03, 2010, 02:02:16 AM
Brinybay,
You will have to clean as Bill has suggested ! Go here and download . Go to pg. 4 and the culprits are 20 , 21 , 22 . No 21 , when stuck, will cause the clicking on wind up. I can move my pawl lever all the way clockwise and it will make the clicking noise , but on the next wind it will be nice and quiet, when it floats, like a slip clutch . If that won't fix it send it to me and I'll swap it just for the charge of postage to you. I have several.
This is Remco's site.
stub
http://tinyurl.com/26wnzwf
You mean I have to take it apart? Ugh. I would prefer a more high-tech approach like banging it on the work bench a couple times.
Ok, back to this thing. I set aside the dial clicking problem because there were bigger fish to fry on this, for one, no dial tone. Did a few experiments and discovered it was the receiver element. Took one out of a parts phone, problem solved.
Everything functions except it won't ring. It has a SL ringer in it, so it should ring, unless the ringer is bad. I've double and triple checked the wiring, everything is where is should be as far as I can tell. I went by this wiring diagram from the TCI library: http://www.telephonecollectors.org/library/aeco/ae80b.pdf (http://www.telephonecollectors.org/library/aeco/ae80b.pdf)
Have you tested the ringer to see if it works?
Clip it to your phone line and test it. This test will tell you lots regarding your next step.{yes, phone problem, no bad ringer}
JMO,
Jik
Quote from: Jim S. on May 08, 2010, 02:40:38 AM
Have you tested the ringer to see if it works?
Clip it to your phone line and test it. This test will tell you lots regarding your next step.{yes, phone problem, no bad ringer}
JMO,
Jik
I don't have a land line anymore, it's rigged to a PBX. I "test" them by simply calling the extension. If there's another way to check the ringer, you'll have to walk me through it.
BTW, the dial has the opposite problem now that I put the bezel back on and mounted it on the phone, that is it doesn't click on windup, but it does on the return.
Quote from: Brinybay on May 11, 2010, 12:49:23 AM
Quote from: Jim S. on May 08, 2010, 02:40:38 AM
Have you tested the ringer to see if it works?
Clip it to your phone line and test it. This test will tell you lots regarding your next step.{yes, phone problem, no bad ringer}
JMO,
Jim
I don't have a land line anymore, it's rigged to a PBX. I "test" them by simply calling the extension. If there's another way to check the ringer, you'll have to walk me through it.
Hook your ringer to a mod cord and plug it into the extension. Then dial the extension. The other route is to plug a cord into the extetension and dial the extension and just touch the conductors to the ringer leads (with the ringer disconnected from your phone).
Jim
Quote from: Jim S. on May 11, 2010, 02:06:01 PM
Quote from: Brinybay on May 11, 2010, 12:49:23 AM
Quote from: Jim S. on May 08, 2010, 02:40:38 AM
Have you tested the ringer to see if it works?
Clip it to your phone line and test it. This test will tell you lots regarding your next step.{yes, phone problem, no bad ringer}
JMO,
Jim
I don't have a land line anymore, it's rigged to a PBX. I "test" them by simply calling the extension. If there's another way to check the ringer, you'll have to walk me through it.
Hook your ringer to a mod cord and plug it into the extension. Then dial the extension. The other route is to plug a cord into the extetension and dial the extension and just touch the conductors to the ringer leads (with the ringer disconnected from your phone).
Jim
Tried that, still no ring. Tell me if I have the wiring correct. I just colored matched the ringer wires to a 4 terminal biscuit that had red, green, black, yellow, except that I hooked the white ringer wire to the yellow on the biscuit.
Greg:
Connect the ringer in series with the ringing capacitor across the tip and ring wires of any extension on your PBX. It should ring otherwise the ringer is bad or the capacitor is open. Try this with a known good ringer so you can verify your setup first. Your ringer needs to be a 20 Hz ringer for this to work.
In a Panasonic PBX, I believe black and yellow are control signals for their brand of programmable phones. They are not needed to test your AE80 ringer.
Quote from: Brinybay on May 11, 2010, 05:30:42 PM
Quote from: Jim S. on May 11, 2010, 02:06:01 PM
Quote from: Brinybay on May 11, 2010, 12:49:23 AM
Quote from: Jim S. on May 08, 2010, 02:40:38 AM
Have you tested the ringer to see if it works?
Clip it to your phone line and test it. This test will tell you lots regarding your next step.{yes, phone problem, no bad ringer}
JMO,
Jim
I don't have a land line anymore, it's rigged to a PBX. I "test" them by simply calling the extension. If there's another way to check the ringer, you'll have to walk me through it.
Hook your ringer to a mod cord and plug it into the extension. Then dial the extension. The other route is to plug a cord into the extetension and dial the extension and just touch the conductors to the ringer leads (with the ringer disconnected from your phone).
Jim
Tried that, still no ring. Tell me if I have the wiring correct. I just colored matched the ringer wires to a 4 terminal biscuit that had red, green, black, yellow, except that I hooked the white ringer wire to the yellow on the biscuit.
Basically you want the ringer across the tip and ring.You don't really need the cap. The cap is to block the DC Talk Battery.
I sugest making your biscuit into a test lead.
Attach a cord to it and clips on the other end. Since you have a 616 you need a handy test cord.
JMO,
Jim
Jim:
I believe you need the capacitor, otherwise, the PBX "thinks" the line is off hook. I can test this tonight with my 616 to confirm.
PS: I checked the above circuit with a telephone line simulator. I was wrong. The ringer has about 4000 ohms of impedance, so not enough current flows to trip the central office into sending you the dial tone, however, I saw a small spark when I disconnected the ringer, thus indicating that DC current is flowing into the ringer, which is not good, since it can demagnetize the ringer. I also shorted the capacitor while the ringer was ringing and all of a sudden, only one gong is struck by the clapper, indicating the presence of DC in the ringing current.
Quote from: JorgeAmely on May 11, 2010, 07:02:42 PM
Jim:
I believe you need the capacitor, otherwise, the PBX "thinks" the line is off hook. I can test this tonight with my 616 to confirm.
PS: I checked the above circuit with a telephone line simulator. I was wrong. The ringer has about 4000 ohms of impedance, so not enough current flows to trip the central office into sending you the dial tone, however, I saw a small spark when I disconnected the ringer, thus indicating that DC current is flowing into the ringer, which is not good, since it can demagnetize the ringer. I also shorted the capacitor while the ringer was ringing and all of a sudden, only one gong is struck by the clapper, indicating the presence of DC in the ringing current.
Jorge,
Good Point
That could be true with a 616.
With a regular Telco line it doesn't matter.
I am reluctant to hook up my 616. Once I do I think think the next 2 weeks would get occupied w/play. I have too many warm weather projects to allow my self to get distracted with a "new" toy right now.
Jim
The Teltone has a battery of 48 volts and 616 has 26 Vdc. They behaved the same on this side of the country.
My take is that if you are going to test the ringer, you may as well test it with the cap in series. That way, you are testing it the way it will be when it is hooked up. You would not normally hook up a ringer in a phone without its cap anyway.
Briny has a Panasonic 308, and I understand he got some clip leads a while ago, and I am pretty sure he has a wire with modular on one end and either bare or spades on the other. He should be ringing up a storm by now....
....Greg?
My take is if you are testing the ringer, test the ringer. A cap test is step 2.
JMO,
Jim
Well, you can test the ringer with an ohmeter for resistance and conductivity, and you can do the same with the cap. However, I have seen cases where something ohms out just fine and still won't work. Hooking it to a 616 or a 308 and ringing it will test it right away. If it still fails. it won't tell you which one of the two is at fault, but that is easy enough to isolate.
As Jorge said, hooking the ringer up "barefoot" to the phone line or the 616 or the 308 or whatever can be done. The ringer resistance is not probably going to trip the ringing current, however, without the cap to isolate it from the DC, the DC will bias the ringer to only respond on half of the AC cycle, and it just won't ring well that way.
That's all I was saying.
Quote from: Phonesrfun on May 11, 2010, 09:44:03 PM
My take is that if you are going to test the ringer, you may as well test it with the cap in series. That way, you are testing it the way it will be when it is hooked up. You would not normally hook up a ringer in a phone without its cap anyway.
Briny has a Panasonic 308, and I understand he got some clip leads a while ago, and I am pretty sure he has a wire with modular on one end and either bare or spades on the other. He should be ringing up a storm by now....
....Greg?
I've been at work. I usually don't mess with them when I get home, too tired.
Should this method have worked? I simply rigged the ringer to another phone that was known to be good and called the extension. It not only didn't ring, but now the "good" phone isn't ringing either, where as it was before, but I'll deal with that later. I made careful notes of the ringer wiring, so I know I hooked it up correctly, e.g. on the "good" phone, the ringer wires went black/15, white/16, green/6, red/7.
Brinybay,
Just take your ringer's green & white and tie together and put L-1 to black and L-2 to red without the rest of phone and call the ext. It should ring .
Mine won't ring barefoot or hotwired at all on telephone Co.
You can fix the other phone later . stub
Brinybay ,
The phone on the left, in pic, ringer is wired like this -
Ringer red - 15
Ringer green - 16
Capacitor white - 16
Capacitor black - 9
Now check your line in cord and see where the yellow wire is hooked to. If it is on green good. Hook the other end of yellow to 9. If it's not hooked in your mod. end then just put a jumper from 9 to 6 should work for both networks, 1154A and 1120A Hope this helps. stub
Quote from: stub1953 on May 12, 2010, 04:07:51 PM
Brinybay,
AE used the yellow wire to to bring L2 to the ringer. You can use either way and it will work. The line cord should have the yellow in it just tie it to the green wire and hook the other end of yellow to 9 . stub
What the heck happened to my reply? Anyway, it was just a matter of moving the yellow wire on the biscuit over to the green on the biscuit. I had yellow to yellow. With yellow to yellow, it would only ring with the jumper from 9 to 6 on the phone. Ok, now I can set this one aside until I go to polish it. I prefer to get all my phones fully functioning, then go back and do the cosmetics later.
Now it's time for lunch and a nap before work.
ISTR testing ringers directly across the phone line. However that was years ago and my my test setup had a ksu power supply for talk and ring as well as 2 telco lines running into it.
I could be remembering the KSU ring supply.
My set-up looked pretty cool.
I could switch between telco and local battery.
on the telco side I could switch between line 1 and 2
on the Local side I could switch between talk battery and ring. In the ring position I had a ringer button and neon indicator.
I also had a dial wired in since there was a dial spot.
I had mod and binding post take-offs and a mini network so I could also use the tester as a 2-line phone.
I also had a monitor speaker hooked to the box.
It was a fun and functional setup. I abandoned it after I got a BK Precision 1045 telephone tester.
All of this was wired into a small piece of test gear that had lots of switches and switch holes. I made it a point to use all of the exsisting holes.
Jim
This is one for the experience column. Almost this entire thread was all because we were looking on the wrong end for the problem. I'm just glad it was something simple. ::)